Sciencemadness Discussion Board - Paper Detonator #8 Power!

Paper Detonator #8 Power!

wessonsmith - 17-7-2019 at 09:53

I want to circle back and reintroduce my "firecracker Mix" as a legitimate paper tube detonator.

I have done some more testing, and the results are undeniable. The properly heat treated mixture flawlessly functions as a high energy detonation source. The test involves a very watered-down version of my ETN plastic, 80% ETN & 20% polymer matrix. I did this to decrease the sensitivity to the point where it's on par with something like Semtex 1A, which contains 17% polymer matrix. I am extrapolating my figures from these papers:

RDX-C4 (p.780)
https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/de2b/cc1f14ee15cbac5252fd97...

Semtex (p.3)
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/277341420_Character...

PETN/ETN (p.7)
http://www.wydawnictwa.ipo.waw.pl/cejem/vol_14_No_2_Early_Vi...

Detonator requirements: (p.21 - 22)
https://explosia.cz/app/uploads/2017/11/Explosives-catalog-2...

My plastic tested(80%):
Impact Sensitivity (J): 20
Friction Sensitivity (N): 180
Requires #8 power detonator

PETN based plastic (86%):
Impact Sensitivity (J): 13.9
Friction Sensitivity (N): 176
Requires #8 power detonator

RDX-C4(91%):
Impact Sensitivity (J): 21.1
Friction Sensitivity (N): 214
Requires #8 power detonator

Semtex 1A(83%%):
Impact Sensitivity (J): 21.1
Friction Sensitivity (N): 187
Requires #8 power detonator

Semtex 10(86%):
Impact Sensitivity (J): 15.7
Friction Sensitivity (N): 204
Requires #8 power detonator

PETN:
Impact Sensitivity (J): 3.93
Friction Sensitivity (N): 75.1

ETN:
Impact Sensitivity (J): 3.28
Friction Sensitivity (N): 38.9

As the video clearly shows, the plastic detonated. It detonated even though it was applied to the shaft of the tube, without any compression holding it on. Anyone who has an understanding of initiating explosives knows that for the plastic to detonate in this manner, the brisance must be very high. Fast enough to initiate the plastic before the pushing force of the explosion pushes the plastic out of the way.

As mentioned previously, the process of manufacture is amazingly simple. Place the powder into a paper tube sealed at one end with hot glue and compact the powder with wooden dowl. Place the paper tube into a NON-FLAME heat source and heat at 185F for 10min. That's it. Add a fuse and seal with hot glue.

What are your thoughts?

Link to video test:
https://youtu.be/N71NYIBL8Zo

Remember that's a 12 Kg steel plate.

[Edited on 17-7-2019 by wessonsmith]

underground - 17-7-2019 at 15:12

It is indeed very interesting primary and i am sure it is going to be used more in the near future. Really good job.

Laboratory of Liptakov - 18-7-2019 at 12:44

For someone can be NHN difficulty available. But if it works as sintered powder in paper tube, is it a new invention. Appropriate name can be sintered detonator. It describes the essence of the new composition. We thanks for sharing. Very interest...... :cool:

...LL
Still some penetration through 2mm steel plate and the invent will be complete.

wessonsmith - 18-7-2019 at 13:06

Quote: Originally posted by Laboratory of Liptakov

For someone can be NHN difficulty available. But if it works as sintered powder in paper tube, is it a new invention. Appropriate name can be sintered detonator. It describes the essence of the new composition. We thanks for sharing. Very interest...... :cool:

...LL
Still some penetration through 2mm steel plate and the invent will be complete.

I have some more testing to do. Thanks for the feedback!

Quote:

It is indeed very interesting primary and i am sure it is going to be used more in the near future. Really good job.

I hope people start using it. Much safer than most primaries out there with the exception of LL's CHP.

[Edited on 18-7-2019 by wessonsmith]

Heat Transference

wessonsmith - 24-7-2019 at 12:59

So, I have done so more testing, and I see some unusual results.
Here are the results of a 1.15g Sintered detonator on a 2mm aluminum bar.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1meCgi56FkcxD__jHAQcF...

My experience with ordinary tiered detonators, like my ( NHN, powdered ETN, Melt-cast ETN detonators), is they have a build-up of power as the detonation wave travels the column. With the sintered detonator, I do not see a build-up up power. It's as if the entire column is going off at once. Here is a quick video of how the sintered composition transfers heat throughout the column.

https://youtu.be/piRqKEGbN58

As we all know, if you wrap a small amount of explosive in aluminum foil and heat it, it will detonate. I think a similar thing is happening with my sintered composition. It seems that once the NHN within the composition starts to burn, the massively high temperature of the NHN combustion is instantly transferred down the column of the sintered composition, causing all of the ETN to detonate at once, which in turn causes the remaining NHN also to detonate.

The very fine voids throughout the sintered detonator column are mandatory for this to work. Without the voids, the composition burns violently with only a deflagration. Here is the zoomed-in picture of the voids throughout the sintered composition.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xePesyF4VLQkyfDQUZfJOAMNS3u...

[Edited on 25-7-2019 by wessonsmith]

Loptr - 24-7-2019 at 16:51

What is the composition of your power mix for the detonator. I cant seen to find anyplace where you talked of it previously.

wessonsmith - 24-7-2019 at 17:21

Quote: Originally posted by Loptr

What is the composition of your power mix for the detonator. I cant seen to find anyplace where you talked of it previously.

60/40 ETN/Nickel Hydrazine Nitrate(NHN). Heat treated 185F for 10min.

More Testing

wessonsmith - 25-7-2019 at 16:05

Here are some more pics.

.440mg ETN Plastic(87%), 2mm Aluminum plate, 1.15g Sintered Detonators.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1i_wDSdCgXXIxVrLL52ohrfsv-8...

I Just tried a variation of my sintered detonator. I put 500mg of powdered ETN in the bottom and then 650mg of the sintered composition on top in the cardboard tube. It was heat treated as before. The ETN did not detonate. The sintered composition did detonate but it did not transfer the energy downward.

I have seen a similar issue when placing the detonator upright into the plastic explosive. A normal detonator will detonate the plastic even if it is just sitting on top of the plastic. The downward shockwave is enough to detonate. With the sintered detonator, the plastic must be in contact with the sides of the tube in order for it to detonate.

[Edited on 26-7-2019 by wessonsmith]

Major Sintered detonator UPDATE!!!!

wessonsmith - 27-7-2019 at 11:20

So I finally got it figured out. I had hoped to have a melt-cast ETN base with a sintered comp initiator in a cardboard tube. I tried a variety of different solutions to get it to work without any luck.

I tried using NHN only on top of the melt-cast ETN, FAIL. I tried using the sintered comp on top of the melt-cast ETN, FAIL. I realized that the melt-cast ETN base was, of course, remelting while I was sintering the comp on top and that the ETN was absorbing up the channel into the sintered comp making it not detonate. I then tried putting some plastic wrap between the melt-cast ETN and the sintered comp, FAIL.

I was able to back add an already sintered piece of the composition with the melt-cast ETN at the bottom of another tube. That worked, but I didn't like the idea of having to cut out and then reinsert that sintered piece into the other tube.

The trick that works 100% of the time is to place the 800mg of ETN into the tube, heat it at 185F for 15 min. Let it cool. Then add 100mg of NHN as a buffer then add 600mg of the sintered comp on top of that. Heat for 10min at 185F. This new arrangement is considerably more potent than just the sintered comp, in fact, it is now as powerful as the US Army Special Blasting Cap. This is all initiated by a simple Visco fuse while safely enclosed in a cardboard tube with a hot glue seal. No shrapnel.

To be clear, this is 800mg of melt-cast ETN going BANG!. No other secondary will be as powerful inside a cardboard tube due to the inability to achieve a high density because of the inherent weakness of the paper tube. In other words, you can't press anywhere near the 1.7 g/cm³ of melt-cast ETN inside a cardboard tube.

Yes, you can place HMTD or LA/LS on top of the melt-cast ETN, but then you would lose the safety of using the relatively insensitive ETN and sintered comp.

The picture(s) is of a 3.2mm aluminum plate defeated by this new cardboard tube detonator.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1SHErUu4ZlsSHw7R-3gcqEPoBIt...

[Edited on 28-7-2019 by wessonsmith]

XeonTheMGPony - 27-7-2019 at 16:02

No other secondary will be as powerful inside a cardboard tube due to the inability to achieve a high density because of the inherent weakness of the paper tube. In other words, you can't press anywhere near the 1.7 g/cm³ of melt-cast ETN inside a cardboard tube.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Well you can easily do this actually. it is a called a die.

wessonsmith - 27-7-2019 at 16:21

Quote: Originally posted by XeonTheMGPony

No other secondary will be as powerful inside a cardboard tube due to the inability to achieve a high density because of the inherent weakness of the paper tube. In other words, you can't press anywhere near the 1.7 g/cm³ of melt-cast ETN inside a cardboard tube.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Well you can easily do this actually. it is a called a die.

Easily do this? Can you give me an example of how you would set that up? Without crushing the cardboard tube? Thanks.

As the detonator stands now, it has a number. 8 strength+ and very easy to manufacture.

Here is an example of a company making #8 strength detonators using an aluminum tube and all the steps they must go through to get it to be powerful enough. Mine, you just place in an oven for a few minutes.

http://energetixsolutions.com/detonator/

I think you are overestimating the ease at which you can achieve uniform density and a density high enough for #8 strength.

Just curious, do you actually manufacture explosives yourself?

[Edited on 28-7-2019 by wessonsmith]

twelti - 27-7-2019 at 18:18

Is he not referring to the idea of pressing the ETN in a stronger tube (Die), then putting it into the paper tube?

XeonTheMGPony - 27-7-2019 at 19:00

Quote: Originally posted by twelti

Is he not referring to the idea of pressing the ETN in a stronger tube (Die), then putting it into the paper tube?

Yes you have your die, usually metal that you place your cartridge is in, then press in increments

Quote:

I think you are overestimating the ease at which you can achieve uniform density and a density high enough for #8 strength.

No, it is simply skill from doing so many, I know how easy it is once you have taken the time to make the tools you need. As well as the many many methods you can use.

Same way how I know it doesn't matter how insensitive your primary or how sensitive it is, what really matters is how you handle it and how well you get to know it. The safety is in the person, never the substance.

Quote:

Just curious, do you actually manufacture explosives yourself?

Oh just simple e matches

(Inside the dets!)

I have made more then a few things, some even rocket powered. I may be short on words but I am not speaking from ignorance.

Pressed pellet toped with an ETN plug.jpg - 765kB

[Edited on 28-7-2019 by XeonTheMGPony]

[Edited on 28-7-2019 by XeonTheMGPony]

wessonsmith - 27-7-2019 at 19:40

I guess what I was saying was that melt-cast ETN is the only explosive that you can place into a cardboard tube DIRECTLY and achieve high density. Not sure why I would go through the process of pressing and explosive like RDX in a metal tube and then transfer the explosive to paper. I am aware that you can press powders and explosives in dies to use in detonators. Think Tetryl pellets or TATB in insensitive munitions.

The whole point of my cardboard detonator was to make something VERY powerful, SIMPLE to manufacture and VERY safe, relative to most detonators based on sensitive primaries. I also make metal-based detonators, and of course, you can achieve high density by pressing the explosive in those.

What primaries are you nonmetal detonators based on?

[Edited on 28-7-2019 by wessonsmith]

XeonTheMGPony - 27-7-2019 at 19:47

You place the paper tube into the metal die, you then press the explosives then eject the loaded tube.there is no other transfers.

use what ever comp you wish.

I use a long strip of printer paper, then use a bit of glue to make the tube.

they where effective for what they where but to me there was no useful advantage over the bog standard used in industry.

But good luck on it, if there is some where I can assist in fabrication will let you know.

Safety is in the person, when ever you make some thing idiot proof nature makes a better idiot! Just keep this in mind.

you see int he azide pellet press I used a second pin to eject the finished pellet, Opt 2 is a slide plate then use the same pressing piston to eject the cartridge.

I use 80 PVA-lead azide, 20 Lead styphnate pressed into a paper shell, this is then pressed over 500mg of ETN, or RDX/ETN

Specialty caps for me is the full 1gram of base charge.

Preferred is Chromed Brass, but I am using 6mm aluminium atm

Igniter is Nichrom doped in nitro lacquer and lead styphnate

[Edited on 28-7-2019 by XeonTheMGPony]

VSEPR_VOID - 27-7-2019 at 20:14

I wish I knew more about energetic materials. Not one of those topics you can get into experimenting with easily, or without lots of educational preparation.

wessonsmith - 28-7-2019 at 04:39

Quote: Originally posted by VSEPR_VOID

I wish I knew more about energetic materials. Not one of those topics you can get into experimenting with easily, or without lots of educational preparation.

I got into energetics in 2016. I had no prior experience and have no formal training/education in chemistry or explosives. I used the internet and watched some YouTube videos and read scientific papers and patents on explosives. The information is out there. Just take your time to learn about the materials you want to play with.

* Cardboard Tube Detonator *

wessonsmith - 28-7-2019 at 05:28

It is important to remember that my cardboard tube detonator is based on 'secondary-like' energetics. There is no shrapnel concern, and the manufacture of the detonator is very straight forward, no dies, etc. The trick to this detonator is the Sintered composition, which can detonate with minimal confinement. The detonator is 8.5mm x 50mm and weighs only 3g yet packs a #8 strength punch!

One could use VERY sensitive primaries like LA/LS or DBX-1. However, that would mean using primaries that are nearly 80x more sensitive than my Sintered composition. The purpose of this invention was to avoid having to use such sensitive primaries. My Sintered Cardboard Tube Detonator does precisely that.

FYI shout out to LL for giving the name Sintered Composition.

XeonTheMGPony - 28-7-2019 at 16:15

Quote: Originally posted by wessonsmith

It is important to remember that my cardboard tube detonator is based on 'secondary-like' energetics. There is no shrapnel concern, and the manufacture of the detonator is very straight forward, no dies, etc. The trick to this detonator is the Sintered composition, which can detonate with minimal confinement. The detonator is 8.5mm x 50mm and weighs only 3g yet packs a #8 strength punch!

One could use VERY sensitive primaries like LA/LS or DBX-1. However, that would mean using primaries that are nearly 80x more sensitive than my Sintered composition. The purpose of this invention was to avoid having to use such sensitive primaries. My Sintered Cardboard Tube Detonator does precisely that.

FYI shout out to LL for giving the name Sintered Composition.

shrapnel is negligible, just the pressure wave will do damage if close enough.

this is what I am trying to teach you, it can be sand for all the matter, if it is handled carelessly it can hurt you, all safety at every point of life begins between the ears of the person.

So as I said treat every thing as if it where sensitive, especially molten ETN as now you are asking it to explode if there is any impurities that should aggravate it. Pressing is 10000% times safer then heating any explosive.

Do keep these facts in mind.

I been playing with this stuff since 1990's, you learn handling + Understanding superceeds every thing ells in terms of safety.

Good luck on your venture, make standards, refine them, then each step build on top of this standard. Having a clear design, and a held to standard all so improves safety and reliability

wessonsmith - 28-7-2019 at 19:36

Quote: Originally posted by XeonTheMGPony

Quote: Originally posted by wessonsmith

FYI shout out to LL for giving the name Sintered Composition.

I appreciate your points. The main reason for my experimentation is safety. No matter how experienced we get or how streamlined our process becomes, there is no getting around the sensitivity of the explosives used. The more sensitive the explosive is the more risk there is!

I disagree with your pressing vs. melting. Melt-casting ETN at the temperatures I am using, and with the non-interactive process that I employ while it's molten, eliminates any chance of an accidental detonation. I also disagree with the shrapnel being negligible. I have had experience myself when I was testing some metal detonators. I was doing a sympathetic detonation test and didn't realize one of the detonators I was testing had been uncovered by sand. The fuse was lit and when it detonated, the shrapnel came flying through my heavy plastic can, almost striking me. Yes, it was my fault but the cardboard tube would have eliminated that POTENTIAL danger.

I am responsible for the quilty of the ETN I use, which means ensuring that it is acid-free. There is no denying that NHN is vastly less sensitive to friction than LA/LS, HMTD, etc. To me, that is a huge deal. I have no doubt that you have created a system for yourself where you can load your detonators using LA/LS were you have also minimized your risk. For me, however, the sensitivity of those primers, including the newer DBX-1 are way too sensitive.

My sintered detonator is DEADLY if miss-handled, just like any other detonator! The energetics that I employ have sensitivity thresholds that are nearly 80x less sensitive to friction than most other primaries currently being used. By using these less sensitive energetics, my margin for error widens. This isn't to suggest, however, that I can be sloppy or careless or lazy when working with them.

Good luck with your endeavors.

[Edited on 29-7-2019 by wessonsmith]

XeonTheMGPony - 29-7-2019 at 04:01

Good, that allays any concerns , but my point is for others reading as well.

When you think of it as safe because of X is when you find your self wondering where your hand went.

I use a dash of urea when recrystallizing my ETN as an acid scavenger, and usually do it twice, once to purify then again to modify crystal form. 1% based on weight for the second recrystallization.

wessonsmith - 29-7-2019 at 04:48

Quote: Originally posted by XeonTheMGPony

When you think of it as safe because of X is when you find your self wondering where your hand went.

I use a dash of urea when recrystallizing my ETN as an acid scavenger, and usually do it twice, once to purify then again to modify crystal form. 1% based on weight for the second recrystallization.

My sintered detonators are SAFER than detonators that use very sensitive primaries. They are safer to manufacture and safer to use. That is just a fact, a fact for others to read as well. My detonators, however, are NOT safe. Any detonator can and will kill you if you carelessly use them!

FYI, Urea doesn't mix well with HTPB. So if you make plastic using HTPB, don't use Urea to stabilize, it will degrade your plastic within a few days. It will go from that beautiful light buff color to an ugly brown. ETN is quite easy to stabilize by recrystallizing and using Ammonium Carbonate. Get rid of the acid and ETN will be good for years!

[Edited on 29-7-2019 by wessonsmith]

VSEPR_VOID - 30-7-2019 at 23:16

Quote: Originally posted by wessonsmith

Quote: Originally posted by VSEPR_VOID

I wish I knew more about energetic materials. Not one of those topics you can get into experimenting with easily, or without lots of educational preparation.

"And that is how I lost my other eye" - Me, 2035

Microtek - 1-8-2019 at 11:07

Wessonsmith, where did you get your HTPB? I have been looking for that for some time.

twelti - 2-8-2019 at 12:35

How does the HTPB compare to styrene butadiene? I have some of that, from a commercial adhesive product mentioned by Quicksilver in his ETN_ Notes-2006 doc.

twelti - 2-8-2019 at 16:02

Quote: Originally posted by wessonsmith

Quote: Originally posted by twelti

How does the HTPB compare to styrene butadiene? I have some of that, from a commercial adhesive product mentioned by Quicksilver in his ETN_ Notes-2006 doc.

HTPB is very easy to use. Directly mix with your powdered explosive, that's it. It also has a long shelf life when using an antioxidant.

Excellent low-temperature malleability.

I'm just wondering if it is any better than what i already have. It is <90% styrene butadiene. I have mixed with ETN and it is easy to mix, ends up like dough, and dries to pencil eraser consistency. Maybe that is one difference, the stuff I have would not remain malleable after 24 hours or so.

twelti - 2-8-2019 at 18:43

Quote: Originally posted by wessonsmith

Quote: Originally posted by twelti

Quote: Originally posted by wessonsmith

Quote: Originally posted by twelti

How does the HTPB compare to styrene butadiene? I have some of that, from a commercial adhesive product mentioned by Quicksilver in his ETN_ Notes-2006 doc.

HTPB is very easy to use. Directly mix with your powdered explosive, that's it. It also has a long shelf life when using an antioxidant.

Excellent low-temperature malleability.

I guess it just depends on your use. HTPB is an industry-standard. Used in plastic explosives and rocket motors.

... as is styrene butadiene, Semtex for example is around 10% SB.

Why I use HTPB

wessonsmith - 3-8-2019 at 05:31

Solventless mixing
Electrical insulation properties
High solids loading
Hydrolytically stable
Hydrophobicity
Low glass transition temperature
Low moisture permeability
Low temperature flexibility
Resistance to aqueous acids and bases
Long shelf life(with antioxidant added)

Electric Match Version of my Sintered Detonator

wessonsmith - 9-8-2019 at 15:03

Below is a link to an electric match version of my Sintered detonator. I am using a modified version of the lead block test by using a jacketed 45acp bullet and a 50 Beowulf cartridge. I chose this method due to the high precision of the 45acp bullets and brass cartridges, which provide a high degree of uniformity between tests. It also makes for a very inexpensive testing setup.

The baseline detonator contains only Sintered comp(1.15g). The full power #8 detonator contains 600mg Sintered comp + 100mg NHN + 900mg melt-cast ETN(1.6g total)

The copper jacket surrounding the lead allows for robust detonator testing since the copper jacket adds structural support. The Brass cartridge provides additional support and a uniformed container to hold the detonator and bullet.

As a reminder, the contents of the detonators have a secondary-like sensitivity profile.

Link to the tests.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1d0D9WVLlj-MpjEukyICJDtty6C...

Here is a link to the electric fuse I use.
https://ebay.us/9oTk5a

twelti - 10-8-2019 at 14:50

Can you upload a sketch or something? I'm not sure I understand what you are doing. You are putting a det inside the cartridge, then...?

wessonsmith - 11-8-2019 at 15:35

Quote: Originally posted by twelti

Can you upload a sketch or something? I'm not sure I understand what you are doing. You are putting a det inside the cartridge, then...?

MineMan - 11-8-2019 at 16:16

What glue do you use? Where the fuse is at.

twelti - 11-8-2019 at 16:27

OK, I git it.

wessonsmith - 11-8-2019 at 17:12

Quote: Originally posted by MineMan

What glue do you use? Where the fuse is at.

Gorilla Hot Glue Sticks, Mini Size

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Sticks-Diameter-Count-Clear/d...

I use it on both sides of the detonator, the base, and the fuse.

MineMan - 13-8-2019 at 00:21

Is gorilla hot glue different than any other glue sticks? I am surprised it is fluid enough to seal between the fuse and cardboard tube... I had that trouble with BP firecrackers.

wessonsmith - 13-8-2019 at 01:16

Quote: Originally posted by MineMan

Is gorilla hot glue different than any other glue sticks? I am surprised it is fluid enough to seal between the fuse and cardboard tube... I had that trouble with BP firecrackers.

Here are the specs on Gorilla Glue. One of the highlights is gap filling.
https://www.gorillatough.com/product/gorilla-hot-glue-sticks...

I have found Gorilla hot glue to give superior hold to others I have used. Also, important to use a High Temp glue gun. I am using a very inexpensive high temp glue gun from Walmart with a fine nozzle.
https://www.adhesivetech.com/create/adtech-drip-less-glue-gu...

MineMan - 13-8-2019 at 14:47

Ok. High temp might be fine for your comp... but other ones like flash or BP make me nervous

Nonetheless. Fine job! That’s like art work.

wessonsmith - 14-8-2019 at 03:49

Quote: Originally posted by MineMan

Ok. High temp might be fine for your comp... but other ones like flash or BP make me nervous

Nonetheless. Fine job! That’s like art work.

Since the hot glue guns and glue sticks are inexpensive, I would do some testing on your comp. Try placing the Glue gun's tip directly into a small amount of each. That is what I did. I let the mini-glue gun heat up for 5min to insure the absolute hottest it could get and then put the tip into the comp for 60-sec. Keep in mind that the tip never touches my comp when sealing the tube. I just did it for a safety check.

The main concern for me was the fuse. The tip can accidentally touch the fuse, so I did a 60-sec test on that as well. The hootest the melted mini-hot glue gets is 115°C, way below the ignition temps of Black Powder and Flash Powder.

Here are some specs.
Gorilla Mini-Hot Glue:
Softening Point : 88 °C (190 °F)
Flash Point : >232 °C (> 450 °F)

So you know that the mini-hot glue gun tip temp is way below 232 °C. I keep emphasizing MINI. The mini-hot glue guns aren't as hot as the full size. No need for expensive full-size glue guns.

Here is what I am using.
Mini-hot glue gun
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003W0IFXY?tag=amz-mkt-chr-us-20&a...

Gorilla mini-hot glue sticks:
https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Sticks-Diameter-Count-Clear/d...

[Edited on 14-8-2019 by wessonsmith]

MineMan - 14-8-2019 at 18:51

Ok. Since it was a high temp glue gun I expected 250C. Glad you cleared this up. This is great!

Moment of truth. Paper detonator !

wessonsmith - 29-8-2019 at 10:33

The detonator overlayed to show size comparison.

Don't try this with anything other than paper.

[Edited on 30-8-2019 by wessonsmith]

Herr Haber - 30-8-2019 at 01:42

Quote: Originally posted by wessonsmith

The baseline detonator contains only Sintered comp(1.15g). The full power #8 detonator contains 600mg Sintered comp + 100mg NHN + 900mg melt-cast ETN(1.6g total)

Why so much ?
I mean... that's both a detonator and a booster.
I havent tried (yet... but with all your teasing soon) NHN, understood from the litterature that you shared that more is needed compared to other primaries but why then add another 100mg on top of your sintered composition (that seems to be enough) and then another 900mg ETN ?
I'm certain you have a logic for such a complicated train.

wessonsmith - 30-8-2019 at 04:18

Quote: Originally posted by Herr Haber

To be clear, if you use a secondary other than melt-cast ETN you don't need the extra NHN. It would be, for example, PETN & 600mg of Sintered comp. The Sintered comp by its self is indeed powerful but in the famous words of Nigel Tufnel from Spinal Tap (these go to 11).

The reason for the extra NHN, when using melt-cast ETN as your secondary, is because the melt-cast ETN remelts when you apply heat to create the Sintered comp. The newly melted ETN then travels up the Sintered comp, causing it to become saturated with ETN. The overly saturated Sintered comp will fail to ignite. The NHN acts as a buffer between the melt-cast ETN and the Sintered comp, preventing the melt-cast ETN from moving up the column.

If you like it simpler then yes, just using the Sintered comp will work. If you want a more powerful firecracker/detonator which goes to 11, then adding a powerful secondary is the way to go.

It is essential to remember what has been accomplished here. We are using a paper tube, stuffed with secondary like explosives, detonating with a simple fuse/electric match head.

[Edited on 30-8-2019 by wessonsmith]

Herr Haber - 30-8-2019 at 06:20

Very clear. Thank you for the explanations.
I do appreciate what you accomplished

Fantasma4500 - 3-9-2019 at 00:02

i have used low-melting rocket candy tubes with 500mg booster compound with a melting range of around 60*C for years. one guy i talked to was able to get it off with just 2mm visco. i failed with 3mm visco. supposedly star composition fuse like "flying fish" fuse may work, burns quite slow and hot. maybe too big gap between target compound and heat source. i never tested it.
i poured the rocket candy into straw segments of about 50mm, mcdonalds straws, 8mm diamter? as it had low melting point due to being... 65-25-10 KNO3 Sucrose Syrup (ahorn syrup) it allowed me to put it into these straws, where regular rocket candy would ruin the straw
once ignited the composition would burn from the end ignited, and flame would be mainly directed in ignition direction, but the flames would also shoot through the side of the straw, effectively impacting the compound, it was rolled in maybe half an A4 page worth of aluminium foil, it was rolled up in 15mm segments, maybe 500mg spread out over 10 folds, this strip was then crimped in ends and rolled tightly around the straws
for ensuring ignition of the RC i pressed a hole into the hardened RC, and the end of the straw had 5mm in the top where there was no RC, this space was used to ensure the 2mm visco fuse would connect and successfully ignite the RC
the 2mm visco was lead into the hole of the RC, and a 1:1 mixture of golden powder : rocket candy, both granulated was added, then it was all held in place with some hot glue. golden powder was used because it ignites very easily
rocket candy becomes hygroscopic if its heated so much that the sugar starts to brown. another benifit of using syrup rocket candy

now this will leave you with a exciting hissing noise before the shockwave hits, you may entirely eliminate this by using a thermite like flash composition, i would opt for a very slow flashpowder, maybe even a flare composition, 80 mesh magnesium? i did try setting this compound off in a metal pipe one time with KClO4-MgAl but it had absolutely no success. RC straw doesnt yield much sparks, which is great if you wanna avoid simply burning off what youre trying to set off, this is especially important if you wanna set off pure NC

i think this device could work with CuO-Mg, but then were again heading towards sensitive initiation, maybe iron oxide thermite with very fine Al would work? unsure how sensitive Fe2O3-MgAl is, but having just a bit of Mg in there for heat and speed would be ideal.
NaClO3-Si powder also burns very hot, but is difficult to ignite. it would surely work well if all the heat could be directed into the heat sensitive compound, i dont recall much success with KClO3-Si in terms of ignition

aluminium foil is good enough for NASA, so i believe it would also work for this application. in one way it insulates from the heat escaping and yet it carries it away. regardless when i put this much care into these devices i never had a failure. my first go was with simply a couple sparklers and this compound wrapped around it. some times ive observed a loud pop or crack before the whole thing going off so theres definitely room for improvement.

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