Sciencemadness Discussion Board

Can we infer what is broken in the hot plate given the following?

6dthjd1 - 8-2-2024 at 14:39

This used hot plate was working near the high setting for a few hours last night until it was turned down from hi to setting of 8. Sometime during the night it broke and stayed broke for about 16 hours..

During the daytime every five or so seconds interference in the bandwidth of VHF channel 2 (54-60 MHz) was noted on an analog television. Interference was also noted on a frequency on 1.210 Mhz on a very sensitive AM radio.

The hotplate was the source of the interference because the interference on the am radio coincided with a clicking noise the hot plate makes. This clicking noise is correlated with the start of heating when the hot plate is turned on.

fx-991ex - 8-2-2024 at 15:38

Quote: Originally posted by 6dthjd1  
This used hot plate was working near the high setting for a few hours last night until it was turned down from hi to setting of 8. Sometime during the night it broke and stayed broke for about 16 hours..

During the daytime every five or so seconds interference in the bandwidth of VHF channel 2 (54-60 MHz) was noted on an analog television. Interference was also noted on a frequency on 1.210 Mhz on a very sensitive AM radio.

The hotplate was the source of the interference because the interference on the am radio coincided with a clicking noise the hot plate makes. This clicking noise is correlated with the start of heating when the hot plate is turned on.


Its hard to tell without make/model, schematic and picture, is it a relay controlled model or triac?

From the description the clicking and the interference could be from the relay switching.
Sound like the heating element is shorted or open.

Best way to find out is to open and take some measurement.

Measure the heating element resistance(unplugged of course!) and check that the heating element is getting power(be careful with live line voltage!).


Usually the resistance of the heating element should be equal to the square of voltage divided by the wattage.

ie 120volt 1440 watt
120*120/1440=10 ohm.

[Edited on 8-2-2024 by fx-991ex]

Sulaiman - 8-2-2024 at 22:10

My first guess is that the 'temperature' controller contacts are burned/pitted/piled/fucked,
A new one should be quite cheap and easy to replace.
How to test?
Unplug,
open,
short circuit the two wires to the temperature controller,
Power up.
The mantle element will immediately be at full power.
If this works it proves that it's just the controller.
If so then some choices are;
1) repair the controller - my repairs usually work - for a while.
2) buy a new controller
2.1) an original from the mantle manufacturer
2.2) a compatible/oem unit from online sites
2.3) IF you intend to do fine fractional distillation
AND you feel comfortable with a mains wiring
Then I recommend replacing the on/off bi-metallic controller with an electronic 'dimmer' module.

Loptr - 9-2-2024 at 11:33

With the interference it sounds like it might be on the high voltage side. I would check for any signs of burns or physical damage to components from a visual inspection.

The click might be from a relay, however, I would expect it to use a solid state relay, and clicking is usually from a mechanical relay.

It would help if you would open it up and post pictures.

Personally, I think its going to be somewhere in the relay circuit.

khlor - 10-2-2024 at 06:51

Any PWM(Pulse Width Modulation ) stuff burned or SMPS(Switched Mode Power Supply )?