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More on PbO2 electrodes

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dann2 - 2-10-2007 at 16:30

Hello Quest,

New to this thread eh!!

My take on LD Anode is that amateurs have been having a hard time producing a long lasting anode.
Substrates tried have been Graphite, ceramic, plastic, cloth,
none! (massive anode) and Ti.
I am getting around to trying Ti. It needs a precoat to stop Ti oxide from forming and electrically isolating LD from Ti.

Some reading here>


http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Campus/5361/basechem....

Iron has been mentioned in the patents and scientific literature usually to make a massive anode. I seen an anode once that used an iron wire as the substrate to make the anode but the iron wire was then ignored when anode was put into service.
(ie. it was a ,so called, massive anode)

Massive anodes are very very likely to crack and break.

Dann2

[Edited on 3-10-2007 by dann2]

quest - 4-10-2007 at 07:43

first try at alpha-LD making:
* I used 2 iron electrodes, 3*1 c"m in dimension.
* distance between electrodes = 4 c"m
* electrolyte = 700 m"l water, 5N NaOH, 27 gr' PbO. (not all PbO was dissolved)
* 2 Volts, 0.08 A.
* 30 degree celsius.

run this cell for two and a half hours with constant stirring.

result:
1) alot of metalic Pb on the cathode and on the bottom of the vessel.
2) a thin coat of black substance on the anode. this substance was very easy removed when scraped with my hand (I wore gloves of course).

when smudged on my glove the substance looked brown.


So why am I getting so much metalic Pb? is there any way to stop this lose of Pb ion?
And do you think the black substance was alpha-LD or just some iron salt?

chloric1 - 4-10-2007 at 13:40

Quest the first problem I notice right away is your lack of tartarate. This complex might keep lead from plating on the cathode.

About iron, even the alpha coating is going to oxidize the iron once placed in a chloride or chlorate solution. Did you etch your iron prior to plating. I would dip the iron in a dilute acid such as HCl or H2SO4 prior to plating to give the LD a rough surface to "grab" . Better than that, concentrated HNO3 will give black iron oxide on steel passivating it. I wonder what would happen if you plated that?

hashashan - 6-10-2007 at 21:29

Quote:
Originally posted by dann2
Quote:
Originally posted by hashashan
Hi, did some alpha lead plating, weired thing... i only got a thin brown plating, couldnt get the thick black deposition. Anyone tried to plate alpha?



Hello Hashashan,

Never plated Alpha myself. I used to communicate with a guy who did lots of plating from a Lead Acetate bath, (made from vinegar and Lead metal). It plated OK but anodes were falling apart. The substate was ceramic.

You cannot plate Alpha onto Graphite for some reason or other.

What is your substrate and bath type.

Dann2


The substrate was Ti with some silver spots impregnated into it. The bath was a sodium plumbate bath just like quest used. The deposit was dark gray very thin but it caught thee substrate pretty well. Ill try some beta over it as soon as ill get home.

quest: you don't need any alpha for your anode, just plate beta over your iron. I know someone who did it.

dann2 - 7-10-2007 at 04:18

Quote:
Originally posted by hashashan

The substrate was Ti with some silver spots impregnated into it. The bath was a sodium plumbate bath just like quest used. The deposit was dark gray very thin but it caught thee substrate pretty well. Ill try some beta over it as soon as ill get home.

quest: you don't need any alpha for your anode, just plate beta over your iron. I know someone who did it.


Hello Hashashan,

Did the Iron Substrate anode work for long when it went into a (Per)Chlorate cell?

Dann2

hashashan - 7-10-2007 at 04:55

The iron wasn't a substrate, It was later removed exposing a massive 5-7mm anode.
The cell was PH and temperature controlled for 6 days of slow deposition

hashashan - 11-10-2007 at 15:51

Well guys I think i've hit the jackpot. Still not sure though.
I took a piece of Ti, made some pitts in it with a hammer, plated with silver untill the holes were full, sanded the Ti untill the silver was only in the pits, plated with alpha PbO2 after that with beta PbO2.
I tested it for 40 minutes in a NaCl solution with 4 amps, the current dropped a bit but i believe that it was because of bad contacts and evaporation.

Ill check it in a full NaCl to NaClO4 cell and then ill post the results, Ill check one mole.

I belive that this concept of mine will work :)

Sorry for no images .. they will come if the anode will be proved to produce perchlorate

hashashan - 12-10-2007 at 08:49

Update : Installed the anode in a NaClO3 cell. It works, but it seems like most of my silver pits were lost. The current isn't high only 4.5 amps for a 20cm^2 anode ... which is really not enough.
Ill keep the electrolysis, the current is rising a bit hopefully it will hit the 5amps and last.

I guess the next update will be tomorrow.



5 minutes passed : too soon to be happy, a large chunk of the anode just cracked off. It still runs though.
I guess ill have to make holes through the Ti on the next try.

[Edited on 12-10-2007 by hashashan]

Silver (Per)Chlorate

dann2 - 12-10-2007 at 17:34

Hello,

I would be inclined to keep away from Silver in the (Per)Chlorate cell.
Would there not be some risk or danger from Silver Chlorates and Perchlorates when products are being sued for Pyrotechnique purposes.

Actually I discussed this before and you said that since Ag
Chloride is insoluble all Ag ions will be ppt out of solution which was a good point.

Is there a risk from Ag with Chlorate and Perchlorate compounds in this situation do any of you guys know?




Still have not got back to the Anode stuff.

Cheers,
Dann2

12AX7 - 12-10-2007 at 18:38

Copper isn't a hazard as near as I can tell. Sodium and potassium chlorate seem to be less soluble than those sorts of things, so it's difficult for them to even form.

Tim

hashashan - 13-10-2007 at 06:24

I already discussed the silver issue with dann and explained to him that because both silver chlorate and perchlorate are soluble and the chloride is not soluble there si no risk at all.

anode update: thje lead dioxide coating wasnt adherent enough and it passed away :(./ the dioxide just peeled off. I belive that next time ill have to make holes through the Ti this is very important.

question: what can i use as a surfacant to avoid bubles? I have never seen those matters that dann explains in his site, maybe there is a more common name to those surfacants? where can I get them?

dann2 - 13-10-2007 at 17:16

Quote:
Originally posted by hashashan

question: what can i use as a surfacant to avoid bubles? I have never seen those matters that dann explains in his site, maybe there is a more common name to those surfacants? where can I get them?


If you cannot obtain surfactants you might try using mechanical movement to help eliminate bubbles.



Dann2

hashashan - 14-10-2007 at 01:45

I may obtain them but i have no idea where do you get them guys. Ant chance that they will be in a chem shop?

tried mechanical ... I used a magnettic stirrer but it just didnt knock off the bubbles

Twospoons - 15-10-2007 at 19:01

1: Photographic wetting agent, from a photographic darkroom supplier, used to prevent waterspots on film.
2: "Spray Stick" or similar wetting agent from garden shops, used to improve adhesion and wetting of plant sprays.

I'm sure I've mentioned these before.

You will probably still need some mechanical agitation for best results.

hashashan - 16-10-2007 at 00:08

Ill try to find those where I live.

Twospoons - 16-10-2007 at 13:11

Don't forget that if you add a surfactant you will have to deal with some foaming.

hashashan - 16-10-2007 at 14:37

So if there will be foaming, whats wrong with just soap?

dann2 - 16-10-2007 at 17:00

Hello,

There will also be decomposition products from use of surfactants. I have no idea what theses products will be or how quickly they will form or what effect they will have (or not have).
The original GSLD Anode patent discussed washing these's products out of tank efffluent using amyl (as far as I can remember) alcohol. This complicated things.


Dann2

Twospoons - 16-10-2007 at 18:51

Soap will form insoluble crud with lead ions - the lead salt of the fatty acid. The surfactant is supposed to be a non-ionic surfactant, probably so it wont react with the lead and drop out of solution!

Basically you are going to have to experiment with whatever you can lay hands on - mad science at its best!

12AX7 - 16-10-2007 at 19:44

What of long alkyl quaternary amines?

Tim

hashashan - 16-10-2007 at 23:50

Experimentation is nice and all, but only untill it is getting close to lead salt spills.

dann2 - 17-10-2007 at 07:30

Hello,

Total hair brained idea:
If you could connect a vacuum source to the plating tank and pull a vacuum every 5 minutes approx. this would get rid of bubbles. Far far too much trouble and 'hassle' I would think.

If adding a Lead Compound to neutralize acid and replenish Lead ions that releases CO2, the tank contents are very much more inclined to foam up all over the place if surfactant is used. A toxic foaming tide flows all over you bench if not controlled. Not a pretty sight.

Perhaps you can ignore bubbles forming on anode and let the Ti do its 'self healing trick' for any part of metal not covered with Lead Dioxide.

Another stunt that was spoke of in a patent was to add a quantity of glass beads to the plating tank and use stirring. The beads mechanically removed bubbles forming.

US 4,026,786 (1977) I think was the patent.
also US 4,159,231

Dann2

[Edited on 17-10-2007 by dann2]

[Edited on 17-10-2007 by dann2]

hashashan - 17-10-2007 at 07:38

Glass what? what are those?

Phosphor-ing - 17-10-2007 at 08:11

http://cgi.ebay.com/PERFORATED-GLASS-SODA-LIME-BEADS-6-mm-CO...

These things or something similar.

hashashan - 17-10-2007 at 08:24

But wont such beads flying around in the solution with enough speed to knock off the bubbles hurt my anode?

dann2 - 18-10-2007 at 15:37

Hello,

From one of the patents:

________________________________________
Ceramic particles are preferably incorporated in the electrolyte solution because these particles, when suspended in the electrolyte as by constant agitation, prevent oxygen bubbles from clinging to the substrate anode during the electrolysis and consequently eliminate the formation of holes in the lead dioxide deposit. Typical ceramic particles are minus 325 mesh ceramic beads and, when employed, are used in a typical concentration range of 1 to 10 grams per liter.
______________________________________________


It is a while since I read the patents.
Ceramic particles it says. Glass beads I thought it said.

Minus 325 mesh. 325 mesh corrosponds to particles about 44 micro meter in diameter. (I don't know what the minus means, 44 micron and smaller??)
Since the Lead Nitrate solution is dense the beads/particles will stirr up and stay suspended with stirring.

I wonder would course sand do instead. You would need to heat the sand to a high temperature to get rid of all organic's (if they where there to start with).

Never used ceramic particles myself.

I presume the action of the particles is harse enough to remove bubbles (easy to do) and gentle enough not to damage deposited LD.

Dann2

Stannic Chloride (Hens teeth)

dann2 - 20-10-2007 at 15:33

Hello,

A bit off topic but.....

Some Stannic Chloride on ebay.
USA sales only, will not post to Europe.

Is there any good soul (in the USA) willing to purchase and post to Europe.

TIA.
Not much time left.

Forgot url.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&...

Dann2

[Edited on 20-10-2007 by dann2]

Intergalactic_Captain - 31-10-2007 at 09:28

Not sure if this has been posted yet, but the attached file has a bit of info the use of tantalum as a substrate...Still a bit expensive, but no more so than Ti/Pt. They acheived very thick (.5cm+) deposits with a high rigidity - "the wire was removed with a sharp pull from pliers." 3 baths are discussed, one an improved Pb(NO3)2 as well as a tartrate and perchlorate bath.

The process seems simple enough, basically very long plating times at <.02A/cm2...Thick, strong deposits. What I wonder is if this might be possible as a GSLD.

One other thing - Ti/Pt is expensive, but I've got access to Ti scrap in small amounts...Would palladium work, or would the oxide be non-conductive? It's only about 5x cheaper than platinum on the current markets, but still over $300/oz.

Attachment: pbo2 anodes - very good.pdf (434kB)
This file has been downloaded 1408 times


Xenoid - 31-10-2007 at 10:37

Quote:
Originally posted by Intergalactic_Captain

One other thing - Ti/Pt is expensive, but........


Well the initial cost might be fairly expensive, but given what various people in this forum are spending on time, effort and chemicals trying to make alternatives it's starting to look cheap!
I bought a small Ti/Pt electrode from Palloys (Australian company) the cost was about A$50 (~US$45) and post was next to nothing because it was so thin and light!

http://www.palloys.com.au/category7_1.htm

Hey..... and it works! I've made a couple of Kgs of KClO4 so far. I'm now looking at MMO anodes for chlorate production.

Regards, Xenoid

dann2 - 31-10-2007 at 14:43

Hello,

Someone spending large amounts of time and cash on chemicals and equipment.... wonder who that is :( ?

Moving swiftly along...........

Did you obtain any details of thickness of Pt coating on Ti?

What sort of conditions are you using it under and is your Chlorate (I am presuming you are starting with Chlorate or are you starting with Chloride and going all the way to Perchlorate) totally free from Chloride.
Are you using an additive like Dichromate?

Of course if you get bored making all that Perchlorate you can always use it as a substrate for a ..........

Cheers,
Dann2

dann2 - 31-10-2007 at 14:59

Hello,

Do you mean to use Palladium Oxide as an undercoat between the Lead Dioxide and the Ti substrate?

Palladium is not 'Noble' enough to use in a Chlorate/Perchlorate cell to the best of my knowledge. Only Pt and Iridium will do. Not too sure about pure Iridium but it is use alloyed with Pt.
Don't know about oxides of Palladium being suitable as an undercoat between Lead Dioxide and Ti.

I am tempted to purchase the anode Xenoid has shown as a substrate for an Anode but it would be much too easy and straighforward. Why do that when there is another more time consuming method with no guaranteed successful outcome.
There is virtue in hardship :D

On a more serious note if one were to purchase the Pt'ized Ti anode as a substrate it could be used again and again as the Lead Dioxide fell off. (so long as it stayed on for a sensible time). If it turned out that you simply could not make a success of Lead Dioxide plating you would still have a perfectly good anode to use for Perchlorate.

I have read reports of people using Platinized Ti anode in the past for (Per)Chlorate making and they complained that the anode failed. Perhaps they were abusing it.


Dann2

chloric1 - 31-10-2007 at 15:53

Quote:
Originally posted by Xenoid
Quote:
Originally posted by Intergalactic_Captain

One other thing - Ti/Pt is expensive, but........


Well the initial cost might be fairly expensive, but given what various people in this forum are spending on time, effort and chemicals trying to make alternatives it's starting to look cheap!
I bought a small Ti/Pt electrode from Palloys (Australian company) the cost was about A$50 (~US$45) and post was next to nothing because it was so thin and light!

http://www.palloys.com.au/category7_1.htm

Hey..... and it works! I've made a couple of Kgs of KClO4 so far. I'm now looking at MMO anodes for chlorate production.

Regards, Xenoid



IMHO I was under the belief that the platinum coating was to thin and frail for perchlorate use. You made a couple kilos of Potassium perchlorate? May I assume you started with sodium chlorate and generated the perchlorate and performed metasynthesis. Details details! PLEASE!;)

Xenoid - 31-10-2007 at 19:59

Quote:
Originally posted by chloric1
IMHO I was under the belief that the platinum coating was to thin and frail for perchlorate use. You made a couple kilos of Potassium perchlorate? May I assume you started with sodium chlorate and generated the perchlorate and performed metasynthesis. Details details! PLEASE!;)


Well as far as I know, platinised anodes are designed for perchlorate cells. I've just had a good look at my Palloys anode and it seems OK, perhaps a little corrosion starting on the edges. I will be very annoyed if I can't make at least another couple of Kgs with it. If I can make 5 Kgs in total I will be quite happy, that will work out at about $10/ Kg. Actually, I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the 2Kg I have already. I got into (per)chlorate making because I thought I would not be able to obtain cheap KNO3 for rocketry anymore, with NZ tightening it's legislation on the sale of "hazardous substances". So I thought I'd have a go at APC. In the meantime I've located a new source of KNO3, so now I'm not so interested in (per)chlorates.

My perchlorate procedure was essentially as outlined on Dann2's pages. I used a 1.5 litre pickle jar and the starting solution was near saturated, pure (twice recrystallised) sodium chlorate, the cell had about 760g NaClO3 in it. The electrode assembly is shown in the top image, I used two 9.5mm Ti rods for the cathode. Running a perchlorate cell is a dream, clear solution, no chlorine, no smell, no corrosion, etc. I ran it for about 4-5 days at about 15A. I can't remember the details as it was a few months back and I stupidly didn't take notes (as usual). KClO4 was precipitated with saturated KCl solution, I just kept dribbling it in until no more precipitate formed. The description on Dann2's and Alan Yates site about it looking like yoghurt is exactly right. I then cooled the solution and filtered it in a pressure filter. The moist KClO4 was scooped out of the pressure filter and put in plastic containers. I did two identical runs, each produced about 1.2Kg of moist KClO4, which theoretically should be about 1Kg each of dried material. The moist KClO4 is shown in the lower image, I still haven't got around to drying it. It's been in the fridge since I made it, it looks like ice cream now!

I called into the local swimming pool - spa centre today, they had two used MMO chlorinator assemblies sitting on a shelf. i spoke to the assistant (the boss never seems to be there) who said they replace quite a few over summer. They looked OK to me so I'm hoping to get several to try out in chlorate cells. I've had enough of the filthy gouging rods. The assistant wouldn't commit on a price though!

Edit: Changed reference to yoghurt from Dann2 to Alan Yates!
http://www.vk2zay.net/article.php/79

Edit: Changed reference to yoghurt from Alan Yates to Dann2 and Alan Yates! Christ I'll get this right eventually!
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Campus/5361/chlorate/...

Regards, Xenoid

[Edited on 31-10-2007 by Xenoid]

[Edited on 1-11-2007 by Xenoid]

[Edited on 3-11-2007 by Xenoid]

Perchlorate.jpg - 46kB

12AX7 - 31-10-2007 at 21:37

Ya know, I'm looking at platinizing Ti with a PtCl6 solution, which so far has been stupid easy getting a clean plating. Pt can handle serious current densities, like, 300mA/cm^2 or more, which implies a sheet of titanium, about 4" (10cm) wide by 18" tall (45cm, maybe 15" (38cm) in use) could handle 228+ amperes, fitting into my cell. That's a substantial current, especially for something as resistive as titanium! So, it occurred to me, I wonder if they make a titanium-clad copper product? ...And it turns out they do, and not only that but they also make such a product that's platinum plated in various micron thicknesses!

Get your hands on a chunk of that stock and you'll be sitting pretty good. I don't know how they handle the ends though. Obviously, it's not possible to cut the active end to length, or else the copper core disappears in a few hours. It should be sealed conformally. Curiously, the stock is listed as easily weldable, which I suppose assumes TIG at the very least, and probably an argon glove box. Maybe the copper is a good enough heatsink not to melt or diffuse into the titanium, I don't know.

Now that I've worked you all up, I don't happen to have a source for this stuff. It's probably horribly expensive. It would be well worthwhile though. Get ten grams of H2PtCl6, put in solution with some HCl and plate out a gram each time the current gets kinda low. The 100s-micron plated stock could last for years, maybe even decades, producing prodigious piles of perchlorate product for the private person (ooh, a spontaneous alliteration).

Tim

chloric1 - 1-11-2007 at 01:50

@Xenoid-That is pretty nice:D I have a few hundred grams of sodium chlorate that I made as you know from this past August/September. Sunday, I recystallized from distilled water and when I have time, I am going to dry and package it. It would be prudent though for me to test for chloride and barium ions. I know there are places here in the US that sell the same anodes. I will have a look.

Fleaker - 1-11-2007 at 08:22

I have some small titanium anodes that I can make available to you all. 12AX7 has a few of them, they're approx. 8cm by 1 cm wide by 2.2mm thick of pure Ti. To my knowledge, they worked well for 12AX7 who plated some Pt onto it.

He and I are now collaborating on electrode design. He has a ready cell and power supply for it, I have the Pt (and shortly the larger Ti plate) for him to use. Soon, very soon.

12AX7 - 1-11-2007 at 11:42

Those small bits of Ti are almost useless -- spray and ozone and other unsavory things inevitably corrode anything you have clamped to them.

Rememer Fleaker, 4 x 18" plate...

Tim

Eclectic - 2-11-2007 at 07:47

There is some 5x12" CP grade 4 Ti plate, .060 thick, on Ebay at a reasonable price on a regular basis from this guy:
http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZthe_liquid_steel

They have gone for under $10 each in the past. I'm thinking Ti tubing could be TIG welded to plate and filled with cast aluminum to bring out the electrical connection. You could cast in or thread in a copper insert at the end. Molten aluminum should wet CP titanium. (AFAIK. You might need a fluoride flux.)

[Edited on 11-2-2007 by Eclectic]

Fleaker - 2-11-2007 at 08:56

Quote:
Originally posted by 12AX7
Those small bits of Ti are almost useless -- spray and ozone and other unsavory things inevitably corrode anything you have clamped to them.

Rememer Fleaker, 4 x 18" plate...

Tim



I suppose on the bigger things. For small stuff and currents like plating out gold in a little cell, I've used them and they work absolutely fine. I actually meant that Pt plated out on them well.

dann2 - 4-11-2007 at 16:14

Hello,

The Doc. attached is 'Controlled Valency Semiconductors' from
Philips Research Reports, 1950.
It was referenced in one of the patents using Doped Tin Oxide as a coat between Ti and Lead Dioxide.
Thought it might contain some useful info.,,,,, it does not IMHO.

Dann2

Attachment: val.pdf (1.6MB)
This file has been downloaded 503 times


hashashan - 5-11-2007 at 23:56

Well guys I think I have an update.
Recently I was working on a massive anode.
The anode was grown from a piece of Ti through a thick (about 4mm) piece of plastic fiber cloth(aka scotchbright). The setup had controlled temperature of 50-58(sometimes it went higher.... I wasn't around to babysit it, corrected it as soon as I could) at the begining it even had PH controll (some PbO that I dumped inside and a magnetic stirrer) but later I ran out of PbO so added NaOH solution from time to time to keep the acid down. Also I added some ceramic dust and shreads as dann2 wrote, It seems like it helped, almost no bubble pitting at all.
I ran about 1 amp(30-40 ma/cm) current for 3 days and today my setup caught flame, probably because of the heating system that was just a thermosensor and a heating element in a plastic bath with water(I guess the it ran out of water and inflaminated). So I had to take the anode out, however the anode was already nearly complete, it is about 5mm thick in the center and really overgrown on the sides(I tried to prevent it by building a hot melt glue farame for it to grow inside but it overgrew it on the first day, so on the sides its about 1cm thick.
It peeled quite easily from the Ti strip.

The anode is big, about 3.5cm*10cm and it weighs 175gr.
Ill post some pictures today when Ill get back home from work.

Xenoid - 6-11-2007 at 15:11

Quote:
I ran it for about 4-5 days at about 15A. I can't remember the details as it was a few months back and I stupidly didn't take notes (as usual).


Hmmmm... No this isn't correct. I found a note I'd made on a calendar. The first run was started at 1.00pm on Sat 28th July and ended on Wed 1st Aug. I recall going down to check the cell early in the morning and noticed much increased oxygen production from the anode, so I assumed it had finished making perchlorate. So that's about 3 days and 20 hours. The current was noted as only 6 amps although I may have increased it to 8 amps later. This makes more sense when you look at the run times on Dann2's pages. The 15 amps was what I was running my last chlorate cells at. When you get older don't start relying on your memory - take copious notes!!!

Regards, Xenoid

chloric1 - 6-11-2007 at 16:00

I am ony 35 and having problems with memory already. I sometimes find unlabled containers of some salt I made and I cannot remember what it is:mad::mad: Yeh I can test it but what a f%^%$ pain when my time to experiment is so short anyways. To add to my frustration, I am almost out of soap and it can be time consuming to make, not to mention curing times. Heated soap is usefull immediately but dissolves immedately and is soft for a week or two. So I may need to buy 2 weeks worth of soap:(:( Sorry about my ranting I am hungry and tired and my 2 year old wants to play.

Xenoid - 6-11-2007 at 16:31

Quote:
Originally posted by chloric1
I sometimes find unlabled containers of some salt I made and I cannot remember what it is:mad::mad:


Yeah! I had 4 or 5 beakers half filled with "stuff" (actually I think they were mainly KOH solutions with various contaminants) left on my bench. I had to throw them out. All that was required was to make a quick note with marker pen on the side. I don't label because I think I'll be doing something with it the next day, but when that drags on to days, weeks and even months there is no hope of remembering. Always make notes, no matter how trivial it may seem!

Regards, Xenoid

Surfactant, ctab

dann2 - 17-11-2007 at 12:11

Hello,

There is an artical here about the use of CTAB in plaitng baths.


Dann2

tentacles - 17-11-2007 at 18:50

I spent some time looking for Igepal CO-880 and CTAB, and I did find CTAB, it was quite expensive and from a chemical supplier that probably won't sell to a private citizen. It was like $35/25g. Plus whatever they want to charge for shipping.

edit: changed to CO-880, rather than CO-800

[Edited on 17-11-2007 by tentacles]

regarding the ceramic particles in solution that are mentioned above as a substitute for surfactants, I wonder if diatomaceous earth would be a suitable replacement, or if the particle size is too small? I will also get some "silica flint" (SiO2, 325 mesh) from my local ceramics shop and try that.

Also, for future reference: if you use copper cathodes for plating PbO2, you don't need to add any copper nitrate; why plate copper onto copper and add more HNO3 to the solution? The reason for adding Cu(NO3)2 is to plate copper onto the (non-copper) cathode preferentially to the lead ion.


[Edited on 18-11-2007 by tentacles]

tentacles - 18-11-2007 at 10:11

I didn't want to double post, but I'd like for some of the smart types here to consider this: what if you put a small amount - say 1%, of lithium chloride in each batch of sodium chloride (or even potassium chloride) when starting a perchlorate cell? Would the lithium (which reportedly forms perchlorate quite easily) form chlorate/perchlorate, and double decompose with the Na/K ions, or is this just a wild/crazy idea?

hashashan - 18-11-2007 at 10:24

why would it double decompose?

Xenoid - 18-11-2007 at 12:26

Quote:
Originally posted by tentacles
I didn't want to double post, but I'd like for some of the smart types here to consider this: what if you put a small amount - say 1%, of lithium chloride in each batch of sodium chloride (or even potassium chloride) when starting a perchlorate cell? Would the lithium (which reportedly forms perchlorate quite easily) form chlorate/perchlorate, and double decompose with the Na/K ions, or is this just a wild/crazy idea?


I don't entirely understand the point of this, you can run a (per)chlorate cell using just about any chloride. If you want lithium chlorate/perchlorate start with 100% LiCl. NaCl is the usual starting material because it is cheap and readily available, and the highly soluble Na chlorate/perchlorate can be converted (using double dissolution) to other chlorate/perchlorates at some later stage. What is the point of adding 1% lithium chloride, it's just going to behave like a contaminant!

Regards, Xenoid

hashashan - 18-11-2007 at 12:31

Lithium chloride is converted to perchlorate easier then the sodium salt. He was saying that the 1% will form the perchlorate and immediately react with the sodium chloride to form sodium perchlorate and lithium chloride and so on ...
I don't think that there is a reason for that

Rosco Bodine - 18-11-2007 at 12:33

Quote:
Originally posted by tentacles
I didn't want to double post, but I'd like for some of the smart types here to consider this: what if you put a small amount - say 1%, of lithium chloride in each batch of sodium chloride (or even potassium chloride) when starting a perchlorate cell? Would the lithium (which reportedly forms perchlorate quite easily) form chlorate/perchlorate, and double decompose with the Na/K ions, or is this just a wild/crazy idea?



I think what tentacles is getting at is supposing the lithium perchlorate forms more easily , but is more soluble than potassium perchlorate , so it would double decompose as fast as it forms and have a catalytic effect ,
regenerating the lithium chlorate as the process proceeds .

It is a reasonable idea and could be a good one if the solubilities favor the reaction .

[Edited on 18-11-2007 by Rosco Bodine]

Suggestion

MadHatter - 18-11-2007 at 12:47

I'm sure he meant double "displace". Tentacles, your idea about using a copper cathode
is interesting. As for LiClO4, the CRC, 85th edition, lists 58.7 gr/100 ml solubility at 25 C.
I'm more curious about 0 C, but I won't be able to check my older CRCs until I get home
tonight. If LiClO4 is easier to produce and the solubility is higher than KClO4, this may
be worth investigating. Again, I won't have the complete data until I get home.
Good potential suggestions in both cases however.

[Edited on 2007/11/18 by MadHatter]

Rosco Bodine - 18-11-2007 at 12:50

I rarely met a thesis I didn't like :P

hashashan - 18-11-2007 at 12:56

how does KClO4 got here?
you wont get any KClO4 at all because of the low solubility of KClO3.

dann2 - 18-11-2007 at 13:24

Hello,

The Li may allow you to make Perchlorate using Graphite without too much erosion as Li Perchlorate 'forms easily and in great abundance'.

Dann2

12AX7 - 18-11-2007 at 13:26

Uh, yeah- hence the metathesis.

Copper must be in solution so lead goes to the anode and copper to the cathode. Copper metal on the cathode is completely out of the reaction and does nothing further.

Why copper metal at the cathode is preferred to just losing more lead from solution, I haven't a clue. It's just what people have been doing.

Incidentially, does anyone know of a leveller for plating lead? Thiourea does nothing.

Tim

Rosco Bodine - 18-11-2007 at 13:52

The solubilities are wrong for the sodium compounds so it wouldn't work that way . Lithium perchlorate will form from sodium perchlorate plus lithium chloride .

The potassium compounds are possibly a different matter.

Maybe hexamine or possibly betaine could help with the lead plating . I vaguely remember something to that effect ....but I'm not sure where I saw it or even if that's right .

LiClO4

MadHatter - 20-11-2007 at 18:05

CRC, 62nd edition, gives a range of solubility(grams per 100 ml water) for LiClO4 as:

60.0 grams @ 25 C to 150 grams at 89 C.

So the metathesis with KCl should precipitate out the KClO4 very quickly as long as
a good amount of LiClO4 is in solution.

The starting materials(Li2CO3, HCl, KCl) are readily available in my locale.


As for using a copper cathode during the PbO2 plating process, I can see it won't make
a difference. Not a big deal. Copper nitrate, is easily made from calcium nitrate and
copper sulphate. Lead nitrate is only one more step. Again, the starting materials are
readily available.

[Edited on 2007/11/20 by MadHatter]

Lithium Perhlorate Related Processes

Rosco Bodine - 20-11-2007 at 18:42

Here is one patent that provides some further information .

US3020124 (attached )

Evidently lithium perchlorate is indeed useful as an intermediate in commercial production of other perchlorates via metathesis , using the carbonates of the desired perchlorate , and recovering the Lithium Carbonate byproduct. This is recycled in the process by chlorinating to the hypochlorite and electrolysing back to the perchlorate for subsequent batch metathesis reactions .

It still seems possible that the lithium perchlorate may act as a continuously regenerable catalyst in a potassium perchlorate cell . And if not , then the batch process as described in the patent could be used .

Attachment: US3020124 Lithium Perchlorate Processes.pdf (314kB)
This file has been downloaded 675 times


Doped Tin Oxide on Ti

dann2 - 24-11-2007 at 12:46

Hello,

Got back to doing some 'DTO ing'.
This time I have SnCl4:5H2O (reagent), not using SnCl2 + H202 for to get SnCl4 in solution.

Not having much luck. Most of attempts I have made have resulted in a coat that is not black at all.
The colour ranges from brownish, whitish, yellowish. It appears powdery. I did not bother to try the
coating in a Chlorate cell as I reckoned it would be a waste of time.
The closest I got to a black coating is shown below.

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u200/anodes_2007/sncl4.jp...


Parts of the Ti are black and some parts are not.
I don't know why. It was all subjected to the same treatment.
I am using old (coated before) Ti. Perhaps I should strart with new.
Ti is eteched in hot HCl and scrubbed clean with a tooth bruch and washed in Isopropyl alcohol (surgical spirit)
then coated immediatly. Oven is at 440C.
Will try a mixture of Sn(I) and Sn(II) next.

Also tried SnCl4:5H20 in IsoP alcohol, no dopant, no HCl,..............no good.
Diluion rate does not seem to matter either.

Looking back on my notes (bearly decipherable scribbles) I noticed that the only coating that
were black in my previous attempts were made using SnCl2:2H2O (+ dopant & HCl & solvent).

Dann2

running out of excuses

Eclectic - 24-11-2007 at 13:25

Try going straight from etch to a dip coating.

maybe etch Ti with oxalic acid instead of HCl

Rosco Bodine - 24-11-2007 at 16:36

In this thread earlier I mentioned a patent that was posted over in the Hanovia bright platinum thread where on
8-9-2007 I wrote:

Quote:

@dann2

Oxalic acid is reportedly good for etching the titanium according to US3650861 , in preparation for a platinum plating applied by baking or electroplating .

The DTO coatings on titanium should and would very likely go better if you tried some of the alternatives which were suggested . The volatility and corrosiveness of your mixed chlorides is simply incompatable with what you are trying to do . The patents you were following simply did not tell the whole story in any one example as a verbatim "how to" , and almost certainly left out details which were
"mission critical" in the abbreviated descriptions which were given .

Attachment: US3650861 Etching_TITANIUM_by_Oxalic_Acid.pdf (134.39 KiB)
attachment link:
http://www.sciencemadness.org/talk/viewthread.php?action=att...


How come you are still trying to work with the chlorides with the identified problems intact and unaddressed by any of the possible workarounds which have been suggested , instead of trying the searched for and reported possible solutions ?

The physical chemistry and problems involved with the straight chlorides is not going to change in three months or three thousand years . How come you haven't tried the "oxychlorides" mixed valency polymer , or the ammonium stannate , or the cold soak first deposition layer as a prebake , when these are more promising ideas ?

BTW , has anybody heard from jpsmith123 on the electrodeposited cobalt suboxide over titanium substrate
experiment which he last reported was about to commence ?

chloric1 - 24-11-2007 at 19:16

Quote:
Originally posted by Rosco Bodine
Here is one patent that provides some further information .

US3020124 (attached )

Evidently lithium perchlorate is indeed useful as an intermediate in commercial production of other perchlorates via metathesis , using the carbonates of the desired perchlorate , and recovering the Lithium Carbonate byproduct. This is recycled in the process by chlorinating to the hypochlorite and electrolysing back to the perchlorate for subsequent batch metathesis reactions .

It still seems possible that the lithium perchlorate may act as a continuously regenerable catalyst in a potassium perchlorate cell . And if not , then the batch process as described in the patent could be used .



Keep in mind that when you perform this electrolysis and do the metasynthesis that the lithium carbonate is actually less soluble in hot than cold water!:o Use a heated funnel and filter HOT!

dann2 - 24-11-2007 at 20:33

Hello,

@Rosco
I am using chemicals that I have/can get. Don't have any Oxychlorides, etc. at this moment in time. Purchasing is not a simply matter either. Could try etching with Oxalic as I can get Oxalic but I have a feeling that it is not an etching problem. The part of the Ti that I filed did not coat well. It was surly 'etched' clean.

The problem with dipped coatings is that a large amount of solution comes out on the Ti strip. When you start to dry this it forms puddles where large amounts of salts gather and are present in amounts (especially at edges of evaporating puddles) which are too large for to form a coating.





Coated some more Ti strips with various Sn concocksions. I have not had time to test them in a cell
to see how they would stant up. Most of them don't look too good.

I took a piece of glass (microscope slide) and coated with a solution of Sn(II) and Sn(IV) and baked.
The coating was black except one area which was translucant and it was also conductive.
I think I will concentrate on Glass for a while to see how I get on.

Most of the patent (relating to glass) use borosilicate glass. I have no small flat pieces of Borosilicate.
Would ordinary Soda glass do instead so long as it does not crack in the oven?
I would be inclined to presume that the glass takes no part in the actual formating of SnO2 what so ever but
the thermal expansion may have consequences, not least breaking in the oven.
I could always break a test tube and use that.... Or my 3 liter round bottom flask if all my pills run out .

Regarding colour of SnO2 films, I took this from US 0025647 Columb 7 line 10: (conductive films on glass patent)
_____________________________________________________________________
With low Sb content, 1% Sb2O3 or less. such films are substantially transparant and are practically colorless
by transmitted light. However, as the Sb content is increased, the film acquires a blue colour which becomes
darker with increasing Sb content and with about 15% Sb2O3 the film transmits a deep midnight blue color and
has generally low visible transmission.
______________________________________________________________________

My Sb content is up at the (approx.) 18% mark.

Would it be possible that Iso Proply alcohol is not compatible with my Sn compounds? Perhpas I should distill it. I am using surgical spirit which I am presuming is pure IPA.


Later,

Dann2

Rosco Bodine - 24-11-2007 at 21:02

The things suggested are only different ways of using the materials you already have .

My Cobalt Oxide Anode Experiments

jpsmith123 - 25-11-2007 at 15:55

As I'm typing this I'm attempting to coat a piece of 0.090" diameter wire with Cobalt Oxide by way of electrolysis of CoSO4 solution.

I was delayed doing this by several months because I moved into a rented house with big plans (it had a great spot for a lab) but I had to move out shortly after moving in, because the place had water problems I didn't know about, and the landlord didn't want to fix it.

Then I moved into another, temporary place, where I couldn't do much of anything, and finally into yet another place, where I can now at least do some small scale things, although doing anything here is a PITA.

Also, until literally just a few days ago, I had a really lousy DSL connection that was down more than up...that problem is now finally fixed.

Anyway, rather than try to coat some plates, I opted to try some short lengths of stiff CP Ti wire, first, as it would be more manageable (and it would make more sense to do small scale until the process is proven out).

To prepare the wire, I first sanded it with 220 and then 400 grit SiC paper, then I washed it in a detergent solution and rinsed it with distilled H2O.

Then, I anodized it for 15 minutes in 10% oxalic acid solution, to create a semiconducting barrier layer of TiO2 (with good electronic but poor ionic conduction), which will hopefully protect the substrate, and, being an oxide, provide a good surface for the Cobalt Oxide to bond to.

The electrolysis is running at a low current density (as per the patent), and I'll probably let it run all night.

I'll report back on what it looks like tomorrow.

Update: The electrolysis seems to be going ok so far. The current is slowly decreasing, and a black cobalt oxide layer is building up on the wire.

I don't know if building up a controlled-thickness semiconducting layer of TiO2 unter the cobalt oxide was the right thing to do or not, so I will also coat another piece of Ti wire subject to the same treatment except for the anodization in oxalic acid.

[Edited on by jpsmith123]

[Edited on by jpsmith123]

Eclectic - 25-11-2007 at 16:40

When you dip coat, keep the Ti in a vertical orientation until it drains and drys, or just SHAKE it dry. :o

dann2 - 25-11-2007 at 17:20

Hello,

Will try the dipp, shake (or drain) and bake!

As I said in the last post I would try to get a conductive coat on a test tube just to see how easy it was for me to do.
Not very easy. I used a water + HCl +Sn(IV) + Sb paint as per a conductive coating on glass pat.
I painted the tube and dried with heat gun. The 'paint' wetted the glass surprisingly well. I would have thought
it would not. Got a good even coat of Salts when water
evaporated.
The tube when put into oven did not form a conductive coat.

I tried heating tube with heat gun (at 600C setting) and dabbing on the 'paint' using fiber glass brush. The paint would instantly dry. I was hopeing that the tube would be at 500C somewhat like the patent....no conductive coat formed.

I resorted to using a small Propant torch and the fiber glass dabbing.
I managet to create a small area of blue, irredencent SnO2 coat over where the edge of the flame was playing on the tube. It is quite conductive. 30 ohms when probes are about 4 mm apart. Cannot get a picture as I have a sh1t camera.

The coating on the latest Ti pieces looked better today than yesterday. The coating always seem to do this, don't know if it an ageing process or my imagination (or the pills and whiskey). One of the strips lasted about half an hour in a NaCl solution. Perhaps the coatings I am getting are good enough to go ahead with and use as an interface between LD and Ti.

Perhaps I need a convectiong oven?
Or if I dribbled some O2 in would that help. An oxidizing atm. is needed but I was inclined to think that an unsealed oven was OK.

Dann2

Rosco Bodine - 25-11-2007 at 17:57

Forget the HCl after you have your soluble chlorides it isn't required and actually gets in the way .

Part of the advantage of that mixed valency polymer composition which I posted the patent for a few pages back , was that it wets anything with an adherent film that sticks and leaves a persistent residue which won't wash off .....even on teflon :P , and that is the effect achieved even before baking . Baking simply hardens
and sets the polymer further and then converts it to a
vitreous conductive coating . But because the film forms in the cold , it blankets the substrate from oxidation during the first heating cycle , as it transitions from the polymer coating to the vitreous coating . That keeps the titanium oxide interface layer thin and conductive .

You mentioned using test tubes as test substrates and that's fine just leave 'em whole and torch the outside
like you are doing . And don't think that an opaque black coating is what you want ...it isn't . What you should see is an irridescent bluish or purplish but transparent coating , something like the reflective optical coatings they put on some sunglasses . You probably know that now from what your ohm meter told you .

I'm still betting that cold coating a solid Ti rod , and chucking it in a rotisserie over a rectangular form burner and spray coating it hot , making several passes , could end up being the best method . The only concern I have here is that on cooling , contraction fractures might appear in the coating on a larger diameter rod , but something like 3/4" diameter or 5/8" diameter would probably be okay . Some of the Ti alloys have 2% Sn
in the alloy and this would probably improve results ,
and some have Zr as well as Sn and these alloys are probably good too . These indigenous metals would tend to contribute to the doping of the Ti oxide interface layer
as it is forming , that contribution to the doping arising from the substrate itself .

[Edited on 25-11-2007 by Rosco Bodine]

Well it's coated...

jpsmith123 - 25-11-2007 at 21:05

The wire now has a fairly nice looking, i.e., uniformly dark, adherent, cobalt oxide coating; i.e., I cannot just wipe it off, even when exerting significant force, using a rag. Attached is a picture.

Tomorrow I'll test it in brine electrolysis and see what happens.

I also tried to coat a piece of Ti wire without the oxalic acid anodize pretreatment, and it didn't work at all. It immediately passivated in the CoSO4 solution.

For the sake of comparison, tomorrow I will also try to apply a coating to a piece of platinum wire, and also to a graphite rod. I may also try to put a cobalt oxide overcoat onto a pool chlorinator MMO anode.

[Edited on by jpsmith123]

Image2.jpg - 56kB

Xenoid - 25-11-2007 at 21:14

@ jpsmith - Good to see you back!

That coating looks really good, I will be very interested in seeing how it performs!

BTW how did you get on with your MMO pool chlorinator anode, I'm looking to get some "used" ones over the next few months.

Regards, Xenoid

jpsmith123 - 25-11-2007 at 21:54

Hello Xenoid,

I made a little KClO3 with one chlorinator cell (the sal-chlor). I also have another, heavy duty (25 amp) autochlor cell that I haven't done anything with yet. (The completed assembly looks too good to do anything with ;)...with a 4L PET bottle, titanium hardware throughout, & viton o-rings, I can't bring myself to use it...

Actually I'm waiting to see what happens with these cobalt oxide coatings. My gut feeling is that they'll work nicely over Pt, Pt-on-Ti or MMO-on-Ti, and perhaps over graphite as well.

Who knows, the most practical solution to the perchlorate problem may be to buy a relatively inexpensive sal-chlor cell, take it out of the box, rinse it off, dip it into a CoSO4 solution, electrolyze for a few hours, and thereby end up with a rugged perchlorate maker.

Anyway, right now as I'm typing this, I'm coating a piece of Pt wire. Unlike the Ti wire I just coated, the current is constant in this case, and the voltage is much lower...which makes me think the coated Ti wire has problems. Perhaps I anodized it at the wrong voltage or for too long or something...I'll see tomorrow what happens.

Rosco Bodine - 25-11-2007 at 22:09

That "blued" band of color above the darker heavier oxide is a good sign :D


As an alternative to anodization in the oxalic acid , something you might try is a mild cathodization in the hot oxalic acid solution , which should increase the etch rate and bare the Ti even more rapidly .

After awhile at the low etching potential , increasing the negative potential will actually convert the bare Ti to an active hydride , as Ti has an enormous adsorption appetite and capacity for hydrogen .

Whatever you apply next if you act quickly is going to have a virtually bare Ti metal interface to whatever layer is applied next . It would probably deposit a silver metal mirror as a flash coating , if for example you dipped the hydrided Ti into silver nitrate solution . Dittos for the cobalt or mixed tin and antimony compounds , the metals
would probably flash plate electroless and instantly onto the bared Ti .

Another possibility if you are finding a semiconductive
anodization is giving good results , is the "blue titania suboxide" produced by anodization in 50% KOH , which was described in a rectifier patent . That particular inventor had tried many different mixtures and conditions for producing a conductive suboxide under electrolytic , non-pyrolytic conditions , and reported that the 50% KOH
was the only one found to produce a stable conductive Ti suboxide at ordinary temperatures .

Another thing you might test is the "per-cobaltous acid"
as a chemical anodization "first strike" on the hydrided
or freshly etched titanium . This might possibly produce a cobalt doped titanium suboxide interface layer by chemical
action alone . This is pure experimental , as there is nothing in the literature concerning this , simply a curiosity
of my own that arose after reading some of the other experiments that have been described .

Also , the cold soak deposition method is applicable to the cobalt oxides .

Anyway, keep us posted on whatever results you get .


[Edited on 26-11-2007 by Rosco Bodine]

jpsmith123 - 25-11-2007 at 22:54

Rosco do you happen to know the number of the rectifier patent you mentioned?

BTW I'm attaching Beer's TiO2 patent.

Attachment: 3234110.pdf (529kB)
This file has been downloaded 626 times


Rosco Bodine - 25-11-2007 at 23:35

Quote:
Originally posted by jpsmith123
Rosco do you happen to know the number of the rectifier patent you mentioned?


Yeah , that's the Ruben patent for an early Shottky Diode ,

US2711496

Here's the attachment link from page 15 where it was first posted

http://www.sciencemadness.org/talk/viewthread.php?action=att...

I'm still looking for the other reference on the "cobaltous peracid" I mentioned . IIRC it was simple to make using H2O2 added to cobaltous hydroxide . I was thinking that perhaps this might have an effect similar to chromating ,
which can produce a semiconductive and corrosion resistant
very adherent interface , thinking it just might result in a
Titanium Cobaltate "bluing" effect , which would also likely have good adhesion for the cobaltous suboxide applied by electrolysis as the next step .

dann2 is betting on the black stuff being the conductive interface , but I am still putting my money on the blue :P

Basically this whole semiconductive boundary layer scheme
is indeed the construction of a planar Schottky Diode which
will be operated reverse biased as a Zener , the goal being
the minimization of the reverse breakdown voltage . So
the boundary layer is being doped to optimize its conductivity
in order to minimize the natural rectifying tendency which is exactly opposite the direction of current flow when the cell
is making perchlorate . In this scheme the alloy of titanium
chosen for the substrate definitely will have bearing on the conductivity of the "sandwich" of layers , and so will the additives in the PbO2 or other layers , everything involved
has its own contribution in doping the junctions in the diode structure .

One other possibility I have wondered about is bismuth compounds with cobalt ,
such as bismuth cobaltate , or
cobalt bismuthate ...are these possible and what usefulness
might they have in regards to perchlorate anodes ?


[Edited on 26-11-2007 by Rosco Bodine]

Well my first attempt is looking like a failure...

jpsmith123 - 26-11-2007 at 07:01

When electrolyzing saturated NaCl solution, the anode seems to have a "threshold voltage" of about 10 volts, and even if I put 18 volts across it, all I get is 100 mA of current, which is only about 20 mA per cm^2, and the current is slowly coming down.

So now the question is, where did it go wrong?

Wait a minute...now the strangest thing is happening...the current is slowly increasing! It's increasing rapidly!

It got away from me. I should've set a reasonable current limit on the P.S. The current went to a few amps for a little while...and the coating came off.

Edit:

This made me remember a paper I read a while ago. The authors describe an "activation process" that the cobalt oxide layer had to have. Maybe that's what I needed to do and didn't. Perhaps I rushed it and burnt the coating off.

I'm attaching the paper.

[Edited on by jpsmith123]

Attachment: Plasma CoO Anode.pdf (1.8MB)
This file has been downloaded 1020 times


Which type of graphite rods should I use?

jpsmith123 - 26-11-2007 at 08:26

I'm ready to try coating a graphite rod.

I have two types of "graphite" rods: (1) one that appears a dull gray color and seems to coat everything it touches with graphite; and, (2) one that appears shiny and does not come off on everything that touches it.

It seems like the latter is the one to try, but maybe someone more knowledgeable can offer an opinion?

Xenoid - 26-11-2007 at 09:17

Whats the size of the wire you're using? The calculation you make above suggests an area of 5 cm^2 (which seems optimistic) so I guess you would want to limit the current to 0.5 or 1 Amp max. May be the coating came off because of overloading.
Re. the graphite, I'd go with the harder, shiny, smoother kind.

Regards, Xenoid

jpsmith123 - 26-11-2007 at 09:34

The wire is about 0.09" diameter with the coated part about 2.75" long.

I think I need to do that experiment again. I think my plating current density was too high, and I think I need to experiment with the pre-plate anodizing step; I need to vary the parameters.

Anyway, the cobalt oxide over TiO2 over Ti would be great, but for right now I'll settle for a quick and dirty coating on graphite...as long as it stays there awhile.

I'll be taking the graphite rod out soon and I'll post a picture.

Rosco Bodine - 26-11-2007 at 10:10

@jpsmith123
As a general rule , probably anodizing is exactly the opposite of what you want to do in preparing the Ti substrate . The possible exceptions are scenarios where the anodization is a minimal thickness very conductive layer in comparison with the normal oxide which would form if the bare Ti was left to form its own natural oxide
in an uncontrolled way . The exception here is that it is better to substitute a much more conductive oxide at the interface , to temporarily seal off the surface and prevent the growth of a thicker and less conductive oxide . That is what the Ruben patent was doing for making a rectifying junction , but of course the exact same method is not desirable for making an anode , because the development of the rectifying junction is exactly opposite of what is desired . The only usefulness of the method would be a modification where the anodization was very brief , perhaps allowing only 10% of the time and voltage rise
observed for the growth of the rectifying junction , and
then doping and baking that very minimal layer of suboxide , which should be more absorbent of the baked
on SnO2 or DTO , than would be the natural oxide . This would probably be useful also for the Ruthenium baked dopant schemes .

For a process where there is not going to be any baking on of a doped vitreous coating , any sort of anodizing pretreatment is likely opposite to what you want to do , which is to produce an ohmic junction , not a rectifying junction . The strategy there with a controlled and brief anodization was a compromise , by first "going in the wrong direction" to create a not fully developed anodization layer of a "softer" oxide than would normally develop on baking , so that any dopant applied and baked would penetrate it more readily than the oxide layer which would otherwise develop .

But for processes which are not involving baking , that partial anodizing approach would probably have no value and could be counterproductive .

It actually seemed strange to me that you were anodizing as a surface preparation prior to electrodeposition , as opposed to doing some sort of "cathodization - hydriding"
which would make more sense for a "cold process" anode
since the idea there is not any vitreous baked and doped boundary layer at all , but essentially a bare Ti metal interface with the electrodeposited coating , or perhaps
some sort of "chromated" sort of chemical reaction product as the boundary layer at the interface between the Ti metal and the electrodeposited coating .

jpsmith123 - 26-11-2007 at 10:52

Rosco actually the hydriding thing is something I was going to get around to trying (see the attached patent), so it looks like a good call on your behalf.

The failure of my first attempt means I will get to it shortly...as soon as the graphite electrode is finished.

If it works that would be great, because it would be the natural result of cathodic electrocleaning. I'll sand it, wash in detergent, rinse, electroclean and hydride in NaOH or Na2CO3, and then electrodeposit.

[Edited on by jpsmith123]

Or I suppose I could do a cathodic etch in an acid solution, and adjust the voltage to go from etching to hydriding.

[Edited on by jpsmith123]

Attachment: 4222842.pdf (282kB)
This file has been downloaded 664 times


Rosco Bodine - 26-11-2007 at 11:23

That file you just posted may be broken , but I got it directly from the patent server .http://www.google.com/patents?id=w8c1AAAAEBAJ&dq=patent:...
I did some searching awhile back concerning the hydriding scheme and posted some about it in another thread .

I don't remember exactly what these patents were and haven't reviewed them but posted the following numbers
as possible interest
US5368719 , US5456819 , US2801213 , US4153742

http://www.sciencemadness.org/talk/viewthread.php?goto=lastp...

I am still intrigued by the cobalt and bismuth since both reportedly have catalytic activity in perchlorate production .
Maybe some sort of spinel or even some cold formable compound or complex involving them could be useful .
I have seen references to their usefulness separately , but nothing for both put together in some way .

[Edited on 26-11-2007 by Rosco Bodine]

jpsmith123 - 26-11-2007 at 12:19

Well I have a piece of Ti wire hooked up as cathode right now in a 10% NaOH solution. It's running at about 100 mA/cm^2. I wonder how long I should leave it in there?

I took the graphite rod out of the solution. It's very hard to see the coating in a picture. The coating seems uniform although it's very thin, and if I rub hard with a rag it leaves a noticeable black trace on the rag.

GraphiteRod.jpg - 49kB

Rosco Bodine - 26-11-2007 at 12:37

I wouldn't use NaOH for the hydriding , but HCl or oxalic acid . You want to hold a low cathodic voltage so that etching of the naked metal occurs , and then raise the negative voltage so that hydrogen evolution occurs , for the hydrogen in excess of what is being adsorbed .
You see there is a window potential where the Ti is exposed by mild cathodization , not yet strong enough
to produce a protective layer of hydrogen . That initial low voltage cathodization lays bare the Ti to the etching effect of the acid , exposing the active metal to the hydrogen
which will follow when the negative voltage is increased .

This may occur in a basic electrolyte , but IIRC from the Pourbaix diagrams it does the desired deed more readily in an acidic electrolyte .

Yes I just checked and you definitely want the acidic medium , and the idea is to cycle from the "corrosion" portion of the diagram which is the etching of the metal , to the
"immune" portion which is the hydriding condition .

[Edited on 26-11-2007 by Rosco Bodine]

chloric1 - 26-11-2007 at 15:02

@jpsmith- I was under the impression that the cobalt oxide coating needed to be applied at pretty low current densities simular to lead dioxide over a long run. Perhaps running the cobalt oxide bath at 3 to 8 mA per cm^2. Try activating your cobalt anode in a 5% NaCl for awhile before doing saturated brines and what not.

Oh and here is the patent I am referring to

[Edited on 11/26/2007 by chloric1]

Attachment: US3399966 Cobat Oxide anode.pdf (180kB)
This file has been downloaded 723 times


jpsmith123 - 26-11-2007 at 15:29

I've been keeping it at 10 mA/cm^2 or less.

Right now as I type this I'm coating another graphite rod; this one at a current density of 5 mA/cm^2. I also took more care in preparing the surface of the rod this time. I electrocleaned and then anodically etched it in 10% NaOH.

Tomorrow I'm going to have another go at the titanium. I'll try Rosco's idea with the cathodic etch and then hydriding in 10% oxalic acid.

If I have time tomorrow also I'm going to immerse the sal-chlor chlorinator cell I have into the CoSO4 solution, and see how the cobalt oxide goes on over the MMO.

Edit:

This graphite rod has been plating now for about 3 hours. I think I'll let it go for another 4 or 5 hours.

BTW if this process can be made to work (and I know that's a big if), I found the perfect OTC plating tank for rod type substrates.

This stainless steel canister is not only the right size and shape, but it's inexpensive, and it has an acrylic lid with a gasket, so the plating solution can be stored inside it.

Then when an anode is needed, just hang the rod from a clamp on a ring stand, for example, with the canister being the cathode sitting on the base or on a hot plate/stirrer or something with an insulator in between.

[Edited on by jpsmith123]

Rosco Bodine - 26-11-2007 at 16:58

If that US3399966 patent is correct , then the substoichiometric cobalt oxide should give much better performance on a graphite substrate than does PbO2 ,
because the catalytic effect of the cobalt enables the
cell to operate at a half volt lower potential for the same effect in electrolysis of brine , than is required for the PbO2 on graphite . Just that slight reduction in operating voltage drops into the range where erosion of any exposed graphite is greatly reduced , in comparison with the PbO2 coated graphite scenario .

So if the cobalt suboxide works out as claimed , then
graphite becomes a practical substrate for a durable anode, and the complexities of a titanium substrate can be avoided entirely .

[Edited on 26-11-2007 by Rosco Bodine]

jpsmith123 - 26-11-2007 at 17:24

Exactly. That's the main reason why I'm trying to do something with these graphite rods.

dann2 - 26-11-2007 at 18:19

Hello,

Busy thread!!

Made up a DTOing solution using Ethanol (instead if ISO P alcohol) + HCl + Sn(IV) + Antimony Cl.
I used the soak, shake and bake.
Hung up Ti after soaking for about half hour and then dried very gentally using a flame. (Heat gun has given up the ghost). The Ti was not going to dry on its own as weather is too damp.
One coat one bake then another coat and bake.
Coating was a dark yellowish brown.
Decided to try in a NaCl solution, I was not going to bother but luckily I did.
It has worked now for about 3 hours! and still going so I guess it is good enough for using as a LD/Ti interface.

Current density about 27 mA/CM2. Voltage accross cell about 5.5 volts. This is a lower voltage than all other coated Ti strips I have tested.


Dann2

jpsmith123 - 26-11-2007 at 20:03

Hello Dann2,

After you've put a coating of something on your substrate, do you generally do any kind of subjective adhesion test? For example, regarding the coating you've just described, did you rub it with a rag or anything to see how well it adheres?

Xenoid - 26-11-2007 at 20:06

Has that US3399966 patent been posted before?

It makes everything look incredibly simple. Almost any Co salt can be used, concentration not critical, pH not critical (2 - 6), temperature not critical (room - 80 oC.), time/thickness of coating not critical, substrate (just about anything) etc. etc.

I just had to have a go at this! I'm currently (no pun intended) coating a 14cm length of gouging rod. I'm using acidified pottery grade cobalt sulphate in a 1 litre bottling jar. The anode is surrounded by a tubular SS cathode. I'm using a current of about 100mA at 2.2 volts. The current density works out at less than 3mA / cm^2. I can't actually see what's happening to the anode, but there is only miniscule bubble formation on the cathode at this current. I'm actually using the same jar and electrode assembly I used for an unsuccessful attempt to make an MnO2 coated anode. Perhaps this will be more productive, we shall see!

Regards, Xenoid

jpsmith123 - 26-11-2007 at 20:34

Hello Xenoid,

Yep, Rosco posted that patent here several months ago. There are at least two or three other patents regarding cobalt oxide anode coatings, but rather than electrodeposition, they involve thermal decomposition of cobalt salts, usually the nitrate, to get the oxide coating.

Rosco Bodine - 26-11-2007 at 21:07

Quote:
Originally posted by Xenoid
Has that US3399966 patent been posted before?


Hmmmm , give me a minute and I'll check :P
Yeah it looks like somebody posted it about five months ago in this thread back on about page 18
http://www.sciencemadness.org/talk/viewthread.php?goto=lastp...

Quote:

It makes everything look incredibly simple. Almost any Co salt can be used, concentration not critical, pH not critical (2 - 6), temperature not critical (room - 80 oC.), time/thickness of coating not critical, substrate (just about anything) etc. etc.

I just had to have a go at this! I'm currently (no pun intended) coating a 14cm length of gouging rod. I'm using acidified pottery grade cobalt sulphate in a 1 litre bottling jar. The anode is surrounded by a tubular SS cathode. I'm using a current of about 100mA at 2.2 volts. The current density works out at less than 3mA / cm^2. I can't actually see what's happening to the anode, but there is only miniscule bubble formation on the cathode at this current. I'm actually using the same jar and electrode assembly I used for an unsuccessful attempt to make an MnO2 coated anode. Perhaps this will be more productive, we shall see!

Regards, Xenoid


Yeah cobalt has a lot of possibilities . The spinels are interesting too as baked coatings , and the cold oxidative soak deposition method works for cobalt oxide too . This
low deposition rate anodic electrodeposition is not wildly different from the cold oxidative soak deposition , and it just might be possible to similarly use a low rate electrodeposition of tin oxide onto titanium by the same scheme . I would expect there is probably an optimum pH and temperature and concentration for the electrolyte , along with an optimum electrodeposition rate which provides the best adhesion .

And the figures from the data charted in the cold oxidative soak method might translate directly to electrodeposition .
A similar chemistry is occurring in either case that is responsible for causing the oxide to "plate out" and the dissolved reagents shouldn't care whether the oxidation
is being supplied from an electrode , or from an oxidant
added to the system , like H2O2 or a nitrate or a bromate ,
as whatever shifts the equilibrium at a similar rate should cause the same result . And electricity for sure does that job . All it takes is something having a higher oxidation potential than the potential of the thing being oxidized
to a less soluble higher oxidation state , and then nothing on earth will keep it from plating out :D It might even be possible to combine the two methods of oxidative soak and electrodeposition , letting the initial coating deposit via the electroless oxidative soak method which produces that extremely adherent "strike" plating of oxide that is so tough
it can't be scraped off with a knife , and then turning on the current to slowly increase the build rate by electrodeposition , ramping up the process for a seamless
transition in the material .

Rosco Bodine - 27-11-2007 at 05:32

@dann2

Here is something you might try with some of your mixed chlorides leftover solution . Take a rotary file to some of
your 95/5 wire solder and grind off a half teaspoonful of filings . Boil off any excess HCl , perhaps adding a little makeup water along , until you get a bit of cloudiness or precipitate . Add the filings and stopper the container
and set it aside for a week or longer , a month , whatever . Decant some of the liquid portion and try
it as a dip coating on an oxalic acid etched and hydrided
titanium strip . Then do your baking .

I must say you do seem to have an enduring confidence in the usefulness of HCl as a component in the DTO precursor mixture .


Is trying anything different even distantly on your radar ?

It's not sticking to graphite very well...

jpsmith123 - 27-11-2007 at 06:49

Xenoid I don't know how your experiment is going but I'm finding that the as-deposited cobalt oxide (maybe baking would help?) doesn't stick to the graphite rods I'm using; basically it can all be rubbed off with a piece of paper towel, without exerting very much pressure, I might add.

I suppose there may be some combination of surface preparation, choice of precursor, plating current density, pH, temperature, etc., that would work better, but with my limited working space, I'm unfortunately not in a position to investigate it any further right now.

So I'm going to write off the graphite for now and try a few more things with Ti, and possibly with the sal-chlor anode I have.

Rosco Bodine - 27-11-2007 at 08:01

IIRC , there were worked out some PbO2 plating schemes
onto graphite which had excellent adhesion and conductivity . Perhaps doing an initial deposit of PbO2 onto the graphite , and then plating the cobalt oxide onto that PbO2 primer coat could be useful , if the cobalt oxide would stick better to the PbO2 . The cobalt oxide would probably retain its usefulness otherwise with regards to operating at reduced voltage .

Xenoid - 27-11-2007 at 10:03

@ jpsmith123

Well I've just had a look at my gouging rod and it's the same story! The cobalt oxide is just visible as a darker, duller coating but it rubs off with the light touch of a finger to show the "shiny" graphite underneath.
This run lasted for about 14 hours, the first few hours were at about 3mA/cm^2 but I lowered the current even further to about 2mA/cm^2 for the rest. I'll "play around" with this a bit, I have some Ti, proper graphite and even a bit of Pt. The Co is much nicer to work with compared to that disgusting Mn, which changes oxidation state at the drop of a hat!

Regards, Xenoid

Eclectic - 27-11-2007 at 10:07

@Rosco
It sounds like Dann has actually gotten this to work finally with my Shake & Bake ® method. ;)

dann2 - 27-11-2007 at 10:14

Hello,

DTO coating has worked for approx. 7 hours before partial failure.

About testing DTO. Since it mentioned in a patent (or patents) that a shiny black coat would form when the DTO coating was rubbed with a wire brush, I was rubbing DTO coatings with fine steel wool. (OOOO grade) to see of coating would shine or come off. I have not been bothering to do this of late. Just electrolysize in NaCl and see how it goes.
Call it the Dann2 DTO test :D

About the other possible methods of getting a DTO coat, I don't have time to try everything.
What is wrong with the presence of free HCl in the DTO precusor? It is mentioned in all the DTO (Anode) patents.

I can try without HCl, (No HCl in DTO precursor on radar :D)
I switched my solvent from ISO Prop. Alcohol to Ethanol. Perhaps this is what made the difference or was it the 'shake and bake'. I will try again with Ethanol with my more usual 'painting' method.
Will also try another two tests without HCl.

It is interesting to note that just about ALL the patent have used Buthanol (I have no Buthanol) as the solvent.

Good luck with the Cobalt. It would be good to leave the Lead behind and move over to a process where one is more comfortable getting one's hands dirty (literally).

To throw something else in I seen in The Perchlorates (see reference section) that there is a Japinese pat. for an LD anode using powdered LD + Vinyl Chloride.
It is in the preface (or is it the history) of the book.
Can Japenese pats he had?

Dann2

[Edited on 27-11-2007 by dann2]

Eclectic - 27-11-2007 at 12:30

There is absolutely NOTHING wrong with using HCl if you are using tin chlorides. You need some in your solution to prevent premature hydrolysis. The heat drives it off, and it can keep the Ti surface clean while tin and tin oxides are laid down.

There IS a problem with using so much solution that you have puddles of standing liquid. Many thin coats between bakes, not all at once.

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