leo - 6-2-2005 at 09:56
why japanese glue cannot stick its own tube's cap??
neutrino - 6-2-2005 at 10:40
What’s the glue made of? What’s the cap made of? What is the glue meant to bond? More information is needed here.
A little OT, superglue <i>does</i> tend to stick to its cap.
hi
leo - 6-2-2005 at 11:35
the glue is traditional japanese glue which is used everywhere in the world. and the cap is made of plastic.
now i am looking the tube and the content of the glue is:it says it contains Alpha Canoacrylate..
Organikum - 6-2-2005 at 15:38
Because cyanoacrylates glue a lot of things together but not polypropylene, polyethylene and Teflon.
Kanem - 20-2-2005 at 06:51
Superglues usually are polymerised by air humidity or moisture on the surface.
As long as you seal it airtight, it should remain in it's monomere form and not glue anything.
Kanem
chemoleo - 20-2-2005 at 17:04
THe rule is very simple: If the material (plastic) has chemical groups that can possibly react with the glue (either covalently, or non-covalently
(i.e. hydrophobic stacking or something)), it will stick.
If there are no such groups, it will peel off.
In the case of polyethylene/polypropylene, it's very hard to glue them by covalent linkage as they are very unreactive - they simply are long
hydrocarbon chains.
Cyanoacrylate is extremely reactive, and thus reacts with most materials, thus bonding them together --> there you got your glue effect. 
Quince - 12-3-2005 at 19:26
I read that cyanoacrylate is supposed to be soluble in acetone, but I find that acetone is unable to remove it from my skin after a couple of minutes
soaking (I don't think it's good to soak my skin for a long time in acetone). The only CA-specific solvent I've found is from
Cyberbond, and the datasheet says it's based on nitromethane, but it doesn't say what else is in it. Has anyone tested whether pure NM (or
perhaps mixed as it's in glow fuel) is an effective solvent, which acetone doesn't seem to be?
And what about polyurethane glue? I've tried all solvents I can get my hands on, and nothing takes it off my skin. This is even worse than CA,
because the CA cracks up and soon falls off, whereas the PU glue is flexible and stays on for quite a few days.
[Edited on 13-3-2005 by Quince]
neutrino - 12-3-2005 at 19:49
If I understand superglue's chemistry, cyanoarcrylate is not what you have to dissolve. You want to get rid of the polymethyl metharcrylate
(Lucite, Plexiglas, etc).
sparkgap - 12-3-2005 at 23:35
Where would the PMMA come from? 
I am quite sure there is no PMMA in superglue/Krazy Glue/whatever you wish to call this adhesive. The basic mechanism is that you have (usually)
methyl cyanoacrylate in your superglue tube, apply said ester to surface, and wait for water (andd all the other stuff in air) to initiate
radical-chain polymerization on cyanoacrylate, which, due to its construction, suucumbs to it easily. The resulting polycyanoacrylate now bonds
whatever it was in contact with.
This also explains why skin sticks easy, as skin contains sebum and water. 
As to your question, Quince, maybe you could try rubbing while soaking in acetone. Works for me. However, this should be done as immediately as
possible, since cyanoacrylate left in the skin for more than 30 min. (in my experience) is a PITA to remove.
sparky (^_^)
neutrino - 13-3-2005 at 05:39
All of the superglue I have ever seen lists two ingredients: ethyl cyanoarcrylate and PMMA.
sparkgap - 13-3-2005 at 08:54
They must be using a different formulation here, I guess. 
My apologies.
sparky (^_^)