Sciencemadness Discussion Board

Crystal Growing

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12AX7 - 10-7-2008 at 10:29

I get that all the time with salt solutions. Raft forms on the surface, crusts crawl up the sides and in towards the center, it's like a pond freezing over. It always annoys me because it really obscures the surface that I need for evaporation.

Tim

undead_alchemist - 10-7-2008 at 18:20

Got the following crystals overnight.
This is in the bottom of a 1L beaker.
Will post more when I get them out of the beaker.

Edit by Chemoleo:
Beautiful crystals but please state what the substance is!


[Edited on 14-7-2008 by chemoleo]

indigofuzzy - 14-7-2008 at 05:43

Quote:

Vera nice. What were your starting materials? What color are they? I.e., more blue than green, more green than blue, or blue-green, etc. (I'm thinking the camera may distort this color somewhat.)


Thanks :cool:
I used Copper Carbonate and distilled white vinegar.
The copper carbonate was made from copper sulfate and sodium bicarbonate.
The copper sulfate was made by electrolysis of Magnesium Sulfate with a copper anode.
(Yup, from copper metal to copper acetate in 3 painstaking slow steps :D)

The crystals seem more green to me, but I've noticed that people draw the line between blue and green at different colors. But it's certainly bluer than a 532nm laser.

jgourlay - 23-7-2008 at 13:39

Quote:
Originally posted by indigofuzzy
Quote:

Vera nice. What were your starting materials? What color are they? I.e., more blue than green, more green than blue, or blue-green, etc. (I'm thinking the camera may distort this color somewhat.)


Thanks :cool:
I used Copper Carbonate and distilled white vinegar.
The copper carbonate was made from copper sulfate and sodium bicarbonate.
The copper sulfate was made by electrolysis of Magnesium Sulfate with a copper anode.
(Yup, from copper metal to copper acetate in 3 painstaking slow steps :D)

The crystals seem more green to me, but I've noticed that people draw the line between blue and green at different colors. But it's certainly bluer than a 532nm laser.


Does that mean that you also got magnesium plated out?

indigofuzzy - 23-7-2008 at 14:51

Actually, I got a pesky crust of Magnesium hydroxide all over the cathode at first. After a while, when the concentration of magnesium in soln had dropped, small amounts of copper hydroxide began to form in the cathode cell.

A beautiful crystal aglomerate:

chemoleo - 12-10-2008 at 17:42

Now this is something I'd like to be able to grow (anyone, how?):
Stibnite

Stibnite, sometimes called antimonite, is a sulfide mineral with the formula Sb2S3

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stibnite

Photo taken at the Museum of Natural History, London

Size: 30 cm wide, 25 high and 25 deep.

[Edited on 14-10-2008 by chemoleo]

Stibnite.jpg - 171kB

Crystal Healing

chemoleo - 12-10-2008 at 17:51

And this is how they help you to battle disease, of mind and body:

Quote:
Chemical Composition

The vibrational frequency of the elements that make up crystals is also used in crystal healing.

To understand the importance of the chemical make-up of minerals, let's look at a few examples:

* Calcite ( CaCO2), you will find by looking at the periodic table, is a calcium carbonate. Most people will know that calcium is the main constituent of the skeletal system, and therefore calcite is often used in crystal healing to help mend fractures of bones.
* Hematite (Fe2O3) is an iron oxide. Iron helps to maintain healthy red corpuscles and oxygenate the blood, and hematite is frequently used to treat anaemia as well as circulatory problems.
* Malachite (Cu2(CO3)(OH)2) contains mainly copper, which draws off heat, and can therefore be used to reduce inflammation. This is the idea behind the use of copper wrist bands to treat osteoarthritis.



Makes sense to me :D

Nonetheless a good source for interesting minerals.
http://www.crystalage.com/ (where the excerpt from above is from).

[Edited on 13-10-2008 by chemoleo]

Panache - 13-10-2008 at 20:57

Quote:
Originally posted by chemoleo
And this is how they help you to battle disease, of mind and body:

Quote:
Chemical Composition

The vibrational frequency of the elements that make up crystals is also used in crystal healing.

To understand the importance of the chemical make-up of minerals, let's look at a few examples:

* Calcite ( CaCO2), you will find by looking at the periodic table, is a calcium carbonate. Most people will know that calcium is the main constituent of the skeletal system, and therefore calcite is often used in crystal healing to help mend fractures of bones.
* Hematite (Fe2O3) is an iron oxide. Iron helps to maintain healthy red corpuscles and oxygenate the blood, and hematite is frequently used to treat anaemia as well as circulatory problems.
* Malachite (Cu2(CO3)(OH)2) contains mainly copper, which draws off heat, and can therefore be used to reduce inflammation. This is the idea behind the use of copper wrist bands to treat osteoarthritis.



Makes sense to me :D



[Edited on 13-10-2008 by chemoleo]


That explains how plaster casts work their magic, ohhhh!! Its becasue they have calcium in them. But wait last broken arm i had was mended using an epoxy cast, how could that possibly work????
I'm confused i might call my raiki teacher.

not_important - 14-10-2008 at 01:03

Quote:
Originally posted by chemoleo
Now this is something I'd like to be able to grow (anyone, how?):
Stibnite

Stibnite, sometimes called antimonite, is a sulfide mineral with the formula Sb2S3



SFAIK it is formed hydrothermally, at temperatures in the range of 100 to 300 C with the lower end forming small grains. The fluid is halide solutions approximating sea water but over a wider range of concentrations, and possibly containing additional sulfides.


So, a pressure system at 150 to 200 C, with a temperature gradient, the hot side having a supply of powdered Sb2S3 and maybe a little free sulfur, the aqueous fill being NaCl at about sea water concentration with Na2S at about 5% of the amount of NaCl. Seal it up, turn on the heat, and go away for a long time.

watson.fawkes - 14-10-2008 at 10:31

Quote:
Originally posted by not_important
SFAIK it is formed hydrothermally, at temperatures in the range of 100 to 300 C with the lower end forming small grains. The fluid is halide solutions approximating sea water but over a wider range of concentrations, and possibly containing additional sulfides.
Stipulating that these are the geologic conditions of formation (which may have included reactions), are there other conditions more amenable to low-end laboratory work? Is there some other solvent to use with a more friendly temperature-pressure behavior?

Stibnite is one of my favorite minerals. It's Arabic name is "kohl" and it's the origin of the loan-word "alcohol". The reasons for this involve the early Arab chemical theories of Jabir, a topic for another thread. It was anciently used, and is still, as eye makeup. These large crystals are impressive and, I imagine, rare.

chemoleo - 14-10-2008 at 15:44

Yes, I'm sure this is about the best you can get, in the same section of the museum they displayed one of the largest natural gold pieces in the world, meteorites, lunar rock etc.

The conditions remind me of those with quartz, where superheated water (300 deg C) dissolves SiO2, which then deposit over the eons as the beautiful crystals we know. Quartz can be grown commercially over a matter of years (!), too.

Regardless - Not_important, could you please quote the reference for this? Particularly if it is out of a book? Thanks.

Nick F - 21-10-2008 at 05:50

I've been growing some quite nice thorium nitrate crystals recently, I'll get a photo when my camera batteries have charged up. I put a solution into a little vial, and placed this into a jam jar with some silica gel at the bottom. Some of them are approaching 1cm across now. I might try to get out one of the larger ones, then add more water to dissolve the rest, then replace the crystal as a seed.
I'll try it with uranyl nitrate too, that should make some nice looking crystals!

Magpie - 6-3-2009 at 18:16

My supplies of ferrous salts were covered with ferric salts so I decided to recrystalize them to try to get better quality.

For the ferrous ammonium sulfate hexahydrate I dissolved up the crappy crystals I had made previously, added a bright nail and kept the soln near boiling for a few minutes. The solution cleared to a yellow-green translucence. Then I filtered hot into a crystalizing dish. In three days large pale-green crystals had formed (see below on right). These were air dried. As you can see some ferric salt has formed on the edges of the cystals.

For the ferrous sulfate heptahydrate I started with crappy pottery grade material. I dissolved some in water, added a bright nail and a couple ml of H2SO4, heated and filtered. When the crystals were about 5mm I washed them twice w/water, then twice with alcohol (S-L-X). These were air dried. The crystals in the 2 leftmost bottles appear to be somewhat efflouresced. The right bottle crystals were harvested when about 2mm in diameter and dried at room temperature, but not over dried. They appear to be of the best quality.

Whereas the ferrous ammonium sulfate is known for its supposed resistance to oxidation, my experience has been that the ferrous sulfate is more reisistant. However, with the FAS I did not wash the crystals with water and alcohol.

What has beenyour experience making these salts?

Reference: "A Course in Inorganic Preparations," by Henderson & Fernelius

ferrous salts.jpg - 50kB

chemoleo - 6-3-2009 at 21:39

Same here - I was hugely disappointed with ferrous ammonium sulfate - not only is the colour ugly, but also it's prone to oxidation. But I didn't have much good experience with FeSO4 hydrate either... the iron curse!

chief - 7-3-2009 at 03:21

Stibnite is no problem: Use gas-phase transport (CVT) :
==> put somewhat raw-material into an ampoule, + an calculated excess of Sulfur (so that the pressure doesn't get too high)
==> evacuate well

Now heat the both ends of the ampoule to different temperatures, maybe 500 vs. 700 [Celsius], for several days (good double temp-regulation required) ; the S2-vapor reacts with the Stibnite, transports it to the cooler end of the ampoule (therefore at the beginning all raw-material should be at the hot end), and crystals grow. Once the parameters are experimented out, any much larger vessel may be used, with kg's of material ...

Thats also one way to grow good ruby-crystals, only at much higher temperatures (1400 [Cels]), and not with sulfur ... ; there are other ways however ...

[Edited on 7-3-2009 by chief]

Magpie - 7-3-2009 at 10:30

Quote:

But I didn't have much good experience with FeSO4 hydrate either... the iron curse!


Chemoleo, I didn't have much luck on my first try with FeSO4*7H2O either. All I got was a bunch of rust. So, thinking it wasn't concentrated enough and acid enough I added more crude FeSO4, another bright nail, some H2SO4, and heated it back up for a few minutes. Then I filtered it again into a crystallizing dish. From then on I got four crops of crystals without a trace of rust. I think the liquor must be definitely acid, like pH 1-2.

It was interesting to me that when cleaning glassware, as the saturated liquor was diluted with water, it would instantly turn to rust!

DJF90 - 7-3-2009 at 10:44

Magpie: We made ferrous ammonium sulfate (Mohr's salt) at school and we ended up with much brighter crystals (yet still pale green) than your picture shows. The teacher had a sample in an uncovered pertri dish that was about 5 years old, on the windowledge. It was identical to the crystals we had made that day, albeit a little dusty lol!

Magpie - 7-3-2009 at 12:55

Quote:

Magpie: We made ferrous ammonium sulfate (Mohr's salt) at school and we ended up with much brighter crystals (yet still pale green) than your picture shows.


Well come on DJF90, tell us how you did it! ;)

[Edited on 7-3-2009 by Magpie]

DJF90 - 7-3-2009 at 14:49

The textbook with the method in is at home. I'm at college now but we finish term next week so I'll make sure I post it up.

DJF90 - 17-3-2009 at 05:48

Here is the preparation of Mohr's salt (ammonium iron (II) sulfate, (NH3)2SO4.FeSO4.6H20)

Making the Iron (II) sulfate

Heat 25ml of 2M sulfuric acid to boiling in a conical flask at least 250ml in size, remove the source of heat and add 2.8g of iron filings in small portions. The energy given out by the reaction will keep the solution close to boiling. Keep a plug of cotton wool in the mouth of the conical flask as much as possible to reduce the escape of acid spray.

When all of the iron filings have been added leave the mixture to continue reacting slowly. When the reaction slows down add an extra 10% of acid (2.5ml). Meanwhile prepare the ammonium sulfate.

Making the Ammonium sulfate

Add 25ml of 2M sulfuric acid into a beaker and add sufficient 2M ammonia solution to neutralise the acid (ca. 50ml). Add the final portions in 5ml amounts, until a drop of the mixture turns red litmus paper to blue. Boil the solution briskly to drive off the excess ammonia, and concentrate the solution by leaving it boiling.

Separate the Iron (II) sulfate from the undissolved impurities and excess iron by filtering; collect the filtrate in a beaker containing 5ml of 2M sulfuric acid to keep the solution acidic. Wash the filter paper with a small amount of water in order to collect all of the Iron (II) sulfate.

Making the double salt

Now add the Iron (II) sulfate solution to the ammonium sulfate solution. If the ammonia was not neutralised properly in the previous step the solution will go cloudy and a little more acid should be added. Boil until the volume is reduced to about 40ml, then remove the source of heat and wait until the beaker is cool enough to handle. Pour the concentrated solution of Mohr's salt into a dust-free, flat-bottomed crystallising dish, and cover with a watch glass. Crystals may appear within an hour, but will probably take several days to form properly.

Procedure taken from "Nuffield Advanced Chemistry, 4th edition"

Magpie - 17-3-2009 at 08:50

Thank you DJF90 for posting these procedures. I note that keeping a small surplus of H2SO4 is mentioned for making the FeSO4 and the Mohr's salt. This is consistent with my success in making FeSO4.

DJF90 - 17-3-2009 at 09:01

I think that keeping the Fe(II) in an acidic environment is important to prevent its oxidation, and i believe this is achieved mainly by the presence of NH4(+) in the Mohr's salt, and also by the small amount of excess acid.

chemoleo - 17-3-2009 at 14:51

This is interesting and may be the clue to this: When I tried to make the double salt I just used the respective analytical reagents in the correct molar ratios (1:1). And I wasn't impressed with the result. Something to try again!

chemoleo - 19-1-2010 at 14:11

Check this out:

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/sci/tech/8466493.stm

On the massive crystals at Naica cave! (see also a few pages ago where I posted pictures).

They should really do the video in 3 D!

Paddywhacker - 20-1-2010 at 13:11

There are many chemicals that are only very slightly soluble in water that might grow crystals vie the hydrothermal method. I have been thinking that Thiel tubes might be useful in this context.

Has anybody experimented with ambient-temperature hydrothermal methods? What apparatus was used?

12AX7 - 20-1-2010 at 23:24

Well, I grew a moderately sized crystal of CuSO4.5H2O in a jar on the stove (the pilot lights keep spots of the stove warm). Put the heat on the corner where crude CuSO4 resides, and it moves over to the cold side with the crystal. Of course, the solubility change with temperature is fairly small, so evaporation is still more important (the jar was not covered).

Tim

aonomus - 21-1-2010 at 05:14

It sounds strange, but I was able to grow a CuSO4*5H2O crystal by placing a beaker of concentrated solution into a dessicatior loaded with NaOH. All my other attempts at room temperature evaporation haven't gone all too well with NaCl (tends to effloresce) or MgSO4 (forms needle like crystals far too readily even with insulation to keep temperature high and cool slowly).

Perhaps alum crystals are easier to grow?

Sedit - 21-1-2010 at 08:01

Quote: Originally posted by chemoleo  
Same here - I was hugely disappointed with ferrous ammonium sulfate - not only is the colour ugly, but also it's prone to oxidation. But I didn't have much good experience with FeSO4 hydrate either... the iron curse!


I know this is a rather old post but how did you attept to make the FeSO4 crystals chemoleo? I boil iron(steel?) in H2SO4 before which left me with a grey material IIRC which turned green with the addition of H2O. The green solution was filtered and left overnight in a jar where Large FeSO4 crystals grew all over the bottom with some rather large almost 1 ince in size. If left out oxidation is a huge problem and the "crystals" turn earth tone red. The solution also began to form brown precipitate until the Green color was completely gone. I think the trick is to start with as concentrated solution as possible and cap it ASAP and allow it to grow or else it will just form brown shit.

chemoleo - 21-1-2010 at 16:48

Then, I just grew commercial FeSO4 and AS (reagent grade).
I gave up on these trials - one has to grow them under anaerobic conditions to get large crystals without brown oxides, and cover them with laquer or something as soon as they face the air.
Oh, and the same with FeSO4 on its own - very pretty while they last but unfortunately not for long! :)

[Edited on 22-1-2010 by chemoleo]

12AX7 - 21-1-2010 at 22:16

FeCl2 is also quite nice -- beautiful bluish to green shade (again, depending on oxidation state), interesting shape (I forget what geometry).

They also tend to melt over time, due to oxidation and hygroscopicity of the resulting product.

Tim

Paddywhacker - 22-1-2010 at 13:35

Quote: Originally posted by Paddywhacker  
There are many chemicals that are only very slightly soluble in water that might grow crystals vie the hydrothermal method. I have been thinking that Thiel tubes might be useful in this context.

Has anybody experimented with ambient-temperature hydrothermal methods? What apparatus was used?


There are some cheaper-than-normal Thiele tubes on eBay just now. I have ordered a couple. The sparingly-soluble material could be placed at the bottom of the elbow sidearm and warmed slightly with a wrapping of resistance wire.

Cupric dihydrogen phosphate might be a good material, or some sparingly-soluble organic cupric salts.

IPN - 3-2-2010 at 13:51

Was cleaning out a 2l bottle which had been used to make lead acetate through the CuO/AcOH/Pb process (had a hard lead acetate/copper powder/lead filing mass at the bottom) and as the hot, filtered wash waters cooled I got this:

http://md1.kapsi.fi/kuvae/lead_acetate1.jpg
http://md1.kapsi.fi/kuvae/lead_acetate2.jpg

The crystal is around 9cm long. :)

aonomus - 3-2-2010 at 14:17

Beautiful, yet deadly...

aonomus - 6-4-2010 at 15:43

A bit of a double post, but, behold:







Ignore the Ru3(CO)12, just a colourful sample I had sitting around. All the others are grown crystals. I had trouble forming a good CoCl2 crystal because the hydrate was forming first, and eventually the blue CoCl4 2- began crystallizing out (excess Cl- from CoCO3 + HCl) - the vial is only a small sample, I have a much larger chunk in another jar.

I may try heating the entire mass to dehydration to obtain powdered CoCl2, followed by recrystallizing it slowly from just distilled water. The crystals are intensely dark, not even a 1000W tungsten light shines through these crystals.

Jor - 6-4-2010 at 16:21

Very nice. It's a shame FeCl2 is so oxidation sensitive, you can see some brown colors on the green crystals, the of oxidation by oxygen.
The cobalt chloride is indeed very dark. I have 250g of small crystals, these are intense red, but not nearly that dark!

How did you make the Ru3(CO)10, or is it a commercial sample?

[Edited on 7-4-2010 by Jor]

aonomus - 6-4-2010 at 17:36

Its a commercial sample from a friend, I originally took the picture to show off some more colourful samples that I had.

As for the FeCl2, I have a bunch of larger crystals that I ended up washing off with DI water, toweling off, and then finally storing under mineral oil. This small vial of FeCl2 has stored fairly well actually, but indeed it is extremely oxidation sensitive. On the bright side, I did prepare a large amount of FeCl2 without inert gas (ie: using vacuum and water vapour to minimize oxygen, and working very quickly).

I also suspect that part of the reason why the crystals are so dark is because its a mix of CoCl2 and CoCl4 -2, with overlapping absorption spectra. Chances are I'll just drive off all the extra water and HCl by heating under vacuum one day, and redissolving/crystallizing.

UnintentionalChaos - 6-4-2010 at 18:48

I did get intensely dark crystals when preparing CoCl2 hydrate. It's simply a matter of the bulk, as far as I can tell. Crushed coarsely they assume the gorgeous deep garnet shade I'm more used to (I also rinsed with a bit of water, but that's not really important for the color, IIRC.

[Edited on 4-7-10 by UnintentionalChaos]

Panache - 25-7-2010 at 08:20

Quote: Originally posted by aonomus  
It sounds strange, but I was able to grow a CuSO4*5H2O crystal by placing a beaker of concentrated solution into a dessicatior loaded with NaOH. All my other attempts at room temperature evaporation haven't gone all too well with NaCl (tends to effloresce) or MgSO4 (forms needle like crystals far too readily even with insulation to keep temperature high and cool slowly).

Perhaps alum crystals are easier to grow?


Sodium chloride crystallizes excellently by boiling a saturated solution and then slowly adding NaOH, to about 5-10% of your volume ensuring the addition is slow enough not to crash out any NaCl, this interestingly causes the solution's bp to increase and artificially creates a super saturated brine solution. Let this solution cool and stand for some time (about a week, covered to exclude dust), sodium chloride crystallizes out in a very spectacular fashion. I often give these as gifts to young relatives (after removing them from the caustic solution and rinsing in dry alcohol) saying i grew them myself. They are hardy enough to gently handle but fragile in their cubic detail, they seem like small cubic cityscapes. I'll hunt for a photo or maybe i'll just grow another.

aonomus - 25-7-2010 at 08:32

Thats interesting that 5-10% NaOH causes the NaCl to saturate. I'll have to try that this week.

I'm also in the process of building a crystallization chamber based on the rotating platform setup the LNL used to grow massive KDP crystals for their big lasers.

http://education.llnl.gov/crystals/Sketch.html

[Edited on 25-7-2010 by aonomus]

Holden and Singer — Crystals and Crystal Growing

The WiZard is In - 25-7-2010 at 08:38

I have not read the entire thread, however, I didn't
find this when I searched for it.

Alan Holden and Phylis Singer
Crystals and Crystal Growing
Anchor Books 1960

I have always found the book useful. You can buy a used copy
for a buck.

Byda - I have only used this to grow KNO3 xts. Take a hot saturated solution of
whatever - and put it in the freezer.

Saywhateverhappened to rock candy crystallized sugar?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rock_candy

Prismatic Copper Sulfate

12AX7 - 29-7-2010 at 19:22

Observed something interesting this evening.

Solution: an unknown mixture of CuSO4, NaCl and etc. In particular, I think the chloride concentration is low enough that CuCl4<SUP>2-</SUP> is not forming in large concentration. The solution is bluish green, not bright green. Hence, the copper is crystallizing as CuSO4, while a little NaCl (if that's what it is) crystallizes as colorless crystals. The remainder will probably eventually produce the neon-green Na2CuCl4, possibly as an intederminate mixture with NaCl and CuSO4.

Method: solution was placed in a drying tray and placed over a warm spot. A gas stove was used, with pilot lights below the working surface which heat it in spots to about 90C. This caused two convienient hot spots on the tray, where little to no CuSO4 formed, but NaCl formed easily. This suggests little change in solubility for the NaCl, which is consistent with its known properties.

Photos: these show the crystals, which seem to be prismatic, and monoclinic I think. A dramatic change from the sharp, hard rhombic habit of pure CuSO4. These crystals were rather weak and easy to crush, though they adhered to the tray quite well.

The tray is yellow plastic, so most of the background also looks yellow. The yellowness is enhanced by the residual supernatant, which was viscous and drained poorly. White streaks glint from its surface, while around the blue crystals, a green halo emphasizes the color of the solution.

Tim

PrismaticCuSO4_1.jpg - 113kBPrismaticCuSO4_2.jpg - 133kB

Wizzard - 30-7-2010 at 06:11

I too have noticed the different habits of copper sulfate- It actually switches between a few- Your normal prismatic, then the crystals grow flat, then a much more cubic prismatic (I can provide pics, if you'd like) which is a lighter shade of blue, then monoclinic.

Also of note- I've discovered that the monoclinic crystals can be melted and used as inlay :D I have no testament to the longevity of this procedeure, though!

12AX7 - 30-7-2010 at 06:33

Curious, I wonder if this is a heptahydrate analogous to NiSO4, FeSO4, MgSO4, etc. Cu ions don't normally fit into this crystal.

Tim

condennnsa - 13-9-2010 at 00:41

I am trying to grow some moderately sized sucrose crystals , to experiment their rumoured chemiluminescence effect on breaking.

I dissoved 350 g sucrose in 100 ml of water, boiled it, it all dissolved, then left it with a lid, and insulated with blankets . After a day it cooled, but all the sugar is still in solution, even though its solubility at 20C is 200g/100ml H2O. The liquid is extremely viscous, much more than glycerol.

What should I do? Should I boil it again to get rid of a little more water, and try again?
Or would the addition of a little NaCl have an effect of the solubility of sucrose, like in the 'salting out' of soap?
thanks

12AX7 - 13-9-2010 at 11:27

Try adding a few grains of sucrose. It will eventually crystallize (thermo says so), but it could take weeks, or "forever".

Syrups are annoying things. I do know this: we've never had a jar of honey in the house which did not eventually crystallize. Temperature cycling over months-years seems to help.

I would suppose "crystal candy" either starts with a roughened stick (thus providing a few random points that are likely to have something shaped like a sugar molecule to fit into and thus grow from), or I suppose they could roll it in sugar first, to provide actual crystals.

Tim

[Edited on 9-13-2010 by 12AX7]

Wizzard - 14-9-2010 at 06:18

What you need to do is keep adding sugar into boiling water (or at near bioling) untill NONE will dissolve, then put the beaker/jar into a great thermal ballast, allowing it to cool VERY slowly over a few days. That'll do the trick- I got about 1cm talkl sugar house-shaped crystals :)

chemoleo - 23-1-2011 at 15:38

Just in case someone wonders what a room looks like that has been filled with a hot solution of CuSO4 after cooling:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/artanddesign/2008/sep/04/art



I think I may try a project like that one day! :)

But obtaining 80,000 L of sat. CuSO4 could be tricky!

peach - 24-1-2011 at 12:17

Quote: Originally posted by Paddywhacker  

There are some cheaper-than-normal Thiele tubes on eBay just now.


I was wondering who bought all of those. :D

I hear they have a high resale value as esoteric walking canes among the gentlemanly garden gnome community.

[Edited on 24-1-2011 by peach]

Crystal Growing

Endo - 3-2-2011 at 10:22

Having about a week before my 9 yr old daughter is due to have her thrid grade science project finished. I pointed her to the lists of subjects easily found online until she found something that hit her fancy. She decided that she wanted to grow crystals, and setup as her tentative hypothesis: *That if she mixes two different solutions she will get a mixed crystal that doesn't look like what is grown from either solution.*

So my goal is to be able to have a few crystals of two of the substances that she can show. Then show a crystal grown from a mixture of two solutions. (understanding that the crystal that forms first will be the compound with the lowest solubility)

Having a lot of chemistry stuff laying around I decided that this was doable. Having the previously mentioned crystal growing webpage on my bookmarks I attempted to setup the evaporation method using three different solutions, Copper sulfate penta hydrate (I had five pounds laying around), Magnesium sulfate (also laying around) and Potasium Aluminum Sulfate(Alum) also laying around.

I find that with the weather running like it is Varying between -30F and +30F with the heat kicking off and on a lot; that the suspended seed crystals would dissolve/partially disolve and fall to the bottom. Getting frustrated with the problems I decided to setup something with a controlled heat system. Scavenging an old crockpot destined for goodwill, and a temperature controller salvaged from a parts hotplate stirrer I wired it in and with about 4-5 inches of vegetable oil in the crockpot I can now easily control the temp from ~200F on down.

So my questions:

When making a concentrated alum solution I can't seem to get it to clarify. It ends up with a milky look to it which doesn't settle out on sitting. I have tried boiling the solution and I am using distilled H2O. Filtering doesn't seem to help. I suspect that this milkyness to the solution is why when maintining the concentrated solution over the last four days, decreasing the temp ~5F every twelve hours, my alum solution filled my crystalization jar full of crystals. (I am assuming that the suspension acted as a large nubber of seeds).

My Copper sulphate crystalization jar ended up with a sheet of copper sulphate crystal across the bottom. I assume my seed dropped to the bottom and because I didn't check it filled up the bottom of the jar.

The Magnesium sulfate solution ended up super-saturated quickly. When I disturbed it to try to introduce a new seed it turned to slush.

So last night I started over, bringing each solution up in temp until nothing else would dissolve, (yeilding a milky alum solution again) and brought the temp back up, starting at 175F this time.

I am wondering if I can get good growth from these solutions by adding more oil, bringing it up to temp, and allowing the oil to cool slowly overnight.

peach - 4-2-2011 at 14:55

With the mixed crystal idea, recrystalisation is used specifically to purify one salt from the other, as the salts tend to want to solidify on a lattice that is of their own kind.*

This page is written by someone else trying exactly the same Alum experiment and ending up with opaque solutions


You may be right with regards to the seed crystal hitting the bottom in the others, and other crystallisation points appearing.

With a week to go, time is of the essence! :D

I would offer the possibility of an entirely different approach. The salts you are using, like copper sulphate, loose their pretty colours when in their anhydrous form (when all of the water of crystallisation is driven off).

You can achieve this by simply roasting the more stable salts, like copper sulphate, in the open air. The water content goes through specific stages at different temperatures, as discussed in the "chemical properties" section of the Wiki article.

As soon as any water gets near the powder, it will go back to the beautiful blue.

This is a very visual demonstration and one that can be done quickly if she'd like to do it in front of the teacher or class.

There is also a wide selection of the level of detail you can go into as to what is happening. The water is changing the colour by forming ligand coordination complexes with the salt, which affect the orbits of the electrons and how they adsorb light; the colour they show is the colour they are not adsorbing.

After googling what 9th grade is in the US (as I'm from the UK), I think it would suffice to say, it's making the salt molecules group together and share electrons in a different way. Paint pigments are based on transition metal complexes as well.

If you scroll down this Wiki article to "Pigments by chemical composition", you can see there are many of them based on copper; Azurite, Han purple, Egyptian blue, Malachite, Paris green, Phthalocyanine Blue BN, Phthalocyanine Green G, verdigris & viridian. But they don't rely on water of crystallisation to maintain their colour - a noteworthy difference. Synthetic pigments where high tech stuff in ancient Egypt and Rome, and brightly coloured paintings, objects and clothes where a sign of being rich.

Today's equivalent are quantum dots, which absorb one band of light and emit a very specific, narrow band of another - costing hundred to thousands of dollars per bottle.

Another point that ties in with this is plants, as the petals use metal ion complexes to produce the bright colours needed to attract bees - the brightness is affected by soil pH (with bright flowers usually wanting more acidic pH's). And the chlorophyll that sustains life on Earth contains a Magnesium complex.

There are also different things she can say about the two different forms of hydration in her experiment. Anhydrous salts, due to them not being crystalline, can be easily ground to extremely fine powders, whereas those with water of crystallisation tend to be big lumps (if you can buy a decent sized crystal from eBay, she could use that as an example of what the anhydrous salt won't easily do).

She can also use the property to demonstrate a use. If the salt is added to a none polar, dry solvent, nothing will happen. If there is moisture in the solvent, the powder will begin going back to it's more well known colour. So it can be used to detect the presence of water. She could use colour changing silica gel, used to dry flowers, as an example of where that's useful in everyday life and how it's used (by baking it in the oven to drive the moisture off again).

She can liken the process to a container of table salt 'going funny' if left in a damp cupboard (particularly if you have one in your cupboard). As well as how lumps form in powders and how this can clog up machinery that processes them.

The only safety problems are a.) don't eat it (which applies for growing crystals) b.) when you grind up anhydrous salts, they will tend to float around in the air, even if you're doing it gently in a mortar and pestle.

The salt WILL end up up your nose and with something like copper sulphate, it WILL sting. You'll be able to taste copper coins in your mouth almost instantly, which is nice at first, but starts to get annoying and burns because it lingers for hours inside your nose. A dust mask is a good idea.

Transition metal salts will work better for the demonstration because you'll get bright colours. For obvious reasons, you want to avoid the more toxic options; like the chromates. Some salts, like ferric chloride, will also decompose if heated in the open atmosphere, releasing hydrogen chloride. Copper sulphate is a safe bet, and they likely use it in her classes anyway.

The salt will heat up as it's rehydrated. Which provides another example of how the process is reversing; heat is needed to drive the water off, and then heat is given back out as the water is put back.

This may seem somewhat boring, but then, crystal growing is the de facto standard for a lot of science projects it seems. With this example, whilst you don't get big crystals (which no one has seen you grow anyway, so they could be off eBay), you see it happening immediately, it advances on the growing by demonstrating the different properties and seems more unique to me.

I would imagine a chemistry teacher would be more impressed by linking all the properties and uses together, as opposed to seeing another crystal.

To show off, she could say how testing for water is extremely important in some chemistry experiments. In university labs, they will use something like the Karl Fischer method; which doesn't work in the same way, but it's testing for the same thing.

If you put a sample of the freshly baked salt on a cheap pocket scale at the beginning of the demonstration, you will likely be able to see that it has gotten heavier by the end, despite not being pure blue again, as it picks moisture up from the atmosphere.

"This is one of the reasons why chemicals must have their lids put back on straight away" <---- every chemistry teacher is going to like hearing this.

Then call up Aldrich and ask them to send you an empty Sure Seal bottom by express delivery for urgent science project work. :P

Worth a try! The worst they'll say is no.

NurdRage has an Alrich account, and he's lurking around on here. Maybe you can harass him into scoring you an empty bottle. ;)

Here's a page all about the process

If you follow this example, using a test tube for the drying, you can show the water leaving. I've dried quite a few salts by emptying them out onto the hotplate and roasting them that way, but the water will come off as steam, which isn't as graphic as droplets. It can also get messy (as it splatters) and kids could burn themselves doing it.

Water on anhydrous copper sulphate - need to be careful you don't get any fine powder up your nose as the water goes on


A 3,000 year old blue pigment found in Egypt


Chlorophyll A


[Edited on 4-2-2011 by peach]

Endo - 5-2-2011 at 11:34

@ Peach

Thanks a ton for the ideas, after talking it over with her and indicating how little time we have left she decided that she likes the anhydrous vs hydrated salts demonstration. We will go this route as it is much easier with the time we have left. Thanks

peach - 5-2-2011 at 16:56

Erm... yeah... there is a price on that information.

I want to see the project. :D :P

Arthur Dent - 3-3-2011 at 05:03

Deleted text because of replied post removed... ;)

Robert


[Edited on 3-3-2011 by Arthur Dent]

Elawr - 3-3-2011 at 07:31

I've enjoyed some success at growing FeS04*5H20 by keeping my supersaturated solution acidified by adding a little H2S04, sealing the container, and keeping few common iron nails (NOT galvanized) in the liquor while crystals grow. The solution will remain clear, and nice green crystals will emerge.

I suspect it is the Fe(III) state that muddies things up, and that the presence of elemental iron and excess (SO4)= in the solution strongly favors Fe(II) instead.

[Edited on 3-3-2011 by Elawr]

Morgan - 3-3-2011 at 08:00

Tidbit on potassium dihydrogen phosphate
National Ignition Facility shorts
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMRD2Ckmmes

hissingnoise - 3-3-2011 at 08:16

I once read an article somewhere where German researchers grew very large crystals of HMTD.
They found that, at a certain particular size, the crystals detonated entirely spontaneously, due presumably, to lattice-strain!


Morgan - 3-3-2011 at 10:08

A long time ago I remember reading a book on growing crystals and one I thought interesting was growing Rochelle salt I think. After you had your large crystal it said to take a bit of vaseline to cause two aluminum foil strips to stick to the sides of the crystal. Wires were connected to the foil. Then a thin piece of cardboard was placed on top of the crystal. You then got your friend to hold the wires while you strike/rap the crystal with a hammer, shocking your friend, all in the name of science of course. ha

aonomus - 3-3-2011 at 14:15

Quote: Originally posted by hissingnoise  
I once read an article somewhere where German researchers grew very large crystals of HMTD.
They found that, at a certain particular size, the crystals detonated entirely spontaneously, due presumably, to lattice-strain!



I wonder how many crystal growing apparatus setups they destroyed. It always seems to be the Germans in Angewandte Chemie that are making molecules with more nitrogen than carbon....

As for the rochelle salt, I think the fact that it is an easily accessible piezoelectric crystal is great.

slinky - 10-3-2011 at 13:00

Bismuth crystals look amazing. They look almost alien, something hr gieger would appreciate. Here's some how to guides.

http://www.amazingrust.com/experiments/how_to/Bismuth_Crysta...
http://www.autarchex.com/projects/growing_bismuth_crystals

<img src="http://www.sciencemadness.org/scipics/Bismuth.jpg" width="800" />

<!-- bfesser_edit_tag -->[<a href="u2u.php?action=send&username=bfesser">bfesser</a>: reduced image size(s)]

[Edited on 10.12.13 by bfesser]

Poppy - 8-2-2012 at 08:00

Quote: Originally posted by Sedit  
Quote: Originally posted by chemoleo  
Same here - I was hugely disappointed with ferrous ammonium sulfate - not only is the colour ugly, but also it's prone to oxidation. But I didn't have much good experience with FeSO4 hydrate either... the iron curse!


I know this is a rather old post but how did you attept to make the FeSO4 crystals chemoleo? I boil iron(steel?) in H2SO4 before which left me with a grey material IIRC which turned green with the addition of H2O. The green solution was filtered and left overnight in a jar where Large FeSO4 crystals grew all over the bottom with some rather large almost 1 ince in size. If left out oxidation is a huge problem and the "crystals" turn earth tone red. The solution also began to form brown precipitate until the Green color was completely gone. I think the trick is to start with as concentrated solution as possible and cap it ASAP and allow it to grow or else it will just form brown shit.


Surely when making ferrous sulfate out of cast iron you got to filter the carbon content of the iron first, thus leaving a cyan-green solution, which must be kept acidic and away from daylight to prevent iron II from oxydizing into iron III which is brown and much more insoluble. I have a guess those hexa or heptahydrate salts must be much more difficult to grow than conventional crystal lattices that excludes water from them. They're beautiful but troublesome

GreenD - 8-2-2012 at 10:30

you guys ever see this cave in russia?

http://www.stormchaser.ca/caves/naica/Naica_08.jpg

quicksilver - 8-2-2012 at 10:42

Pushing 2cm of TNT crystal growth:
http://www.sciencemadness.org/talk/viewthread.php?tid=29&...
Unfortunately there is nothing to compare a table of length but the beaker on the rt (TNT) had some amazingly long needles.


EDIT:
Do you have any more information on that Russian cave? That's incredible!

[Edited on 8-2-2012 by quicksilver]

Poppy - 8-2-2012 at 12:27

They pushed that too far.. too far... Crystals won't fit the cave exit anymore. Hopefully may us all grow crystals like these someday?

Now seriously guys, I've been so "seriously" trying to grow ammonium dihydrogen phosphate crystals with just a beaker and a bain marie pan at best. The result is that the crystals grow but the tiny parasitic crystals growing on them seem to disturb the whole process because they excuselessly off spring in the beaker walls so the shot there might work is that the iny crystals grow over the seeds and get recombined by ion exchange forces. This realy happens when powder turns into crystals when wet and at rest. If this don not proceed the seed must be suspended with latex fishing string, or just any very fine nylon string, in the solution and then create a miniramp where the recently formed zit crystals may slide off to the bottom leaving this suspended seed at least untouchable, if not at a good growing rate.
I shall give results soon enough.

turd - 8-2-2012 at 12:38

Quote: Originally posted by GreenD  
you guys ever see this cave in russia?

http://www.stormchaser.ca/caves/naica/Naica_08.jpg

Mexico! It was all over the news a few years ago:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cave_of_the_Crystals

Magpie - 8-2-2012 at 12:39

Quote: Originally posted by GreenD  
you guys ever see this cave in russia?

http://www.stormchaser.ca/caves/naica/Naica_08.jpg


Those crystals look amazingly like the CaSO4*2H20 crystals found in a cave in Mexico. See the post by chemoleo, this thread.

http://www.sciencemadness.org/talk/viewthread.php?tid=5529&a...

plante1999 - 7-4-2013 at 07:48

I would like to know if anyone know how to grow malachite, such as the one in this paper.

Thanks!

Attachment: Man-Made-Jewelry-Malachite.pdf (392kB)
This file has been downloaded 1166 times


Morgan - 1-12-2013 at 13:44

If this hasn't been posted, there are lots of pretty quartz crystals and some history and science behind them.
Russian Synthetic Quartz
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKQOSPwodWY

cpman - 9-12-2013 at 22:30

Currently, I'm growing single crystals of monoammonium phosphate (NH4H2PO4), copper II acetate [Cu(CH3COO)2], and potassium alum. Also, I'm dissolving some zinc in vinegar to make zinc acetate for crystal growing.
The monoammonium phosphate is really annoying, as every single crystal I try to grow turns cloudy because the temperature of my house is not super stable, and I tend to make the solutions when the house is at its warmest. The others are fairly easy.

[Edited on 12-10-2013 by cpman]

blogfast25 - 10-12-2013 at 05:59

NH4H2PO4

Zephyr - 10-12-2013 at 19:40

Some almost finished stannous chloride crystals.



Crystallization chamber

Oggas - 18-12-2014 at 14:38

Quote: Originally posted by aonomus  
Thats interesting that 5-10% NaOH causes the NaCl to saturate. I'll have to try that this week.

I'm also in the process of building a crystallization chamber based on the rotating platform setup the LNL used to grow massive KDP crystals for their big lasers.

http://education.llnl.gov/crystals/Sketch.html

[Edited on 25-7-2010 by aonomus]


Anonomus I was wondering how the building of the crystallization chamber was going? It seems I can't view the reference you are quoting so I'd love any info on how you did it. Been having trouble finding good references on how to build one.

Anyone else got any ideas?

Sniffity - 27-12-2014 at 01:35

I also tend to use the seed crystal on a string method for growing large crystals. I get annoyed to no end by the string being unremovable after this D:

I've tried planting a single seed crystal on the floor of the beaker, but invariably more crystals will form (I'm guessing due to seeding by impurities) which will eventually trap my big crystal on the bottom.

Any ideas on getting a large crystal without the use of a string?

Bezaleel - 6-1-2015 at 10:59

The only - really sophisticated - method I can think of (only works for diamagnetic crystals) is by suspending the crystal in a magnetic field. This requires extremely strong magnetic fields.

Practically we're limited to less sophisticated methods. I've always grown my crystals on monofilament threads. Seed crystals I took form the bottom of my beakers/flasks.

The only practical general method (I know of) for "suspending" a crystal without the use of wires is by an upward flow of the mother liquor. Requires cunning tuning of the liquid flow.... And I imagine is to be very difficult to prevent the saturated solution from forming crystals inside your pump.

soniccd123 - 22-1-2015 at 21:09

Quote: Originally posted by Sniffity  
I also tend to use the seed crystal on a string method for growing large crystals. I get annoyed to no end by the string being unremovable after this D:

I've tried planting a single seed crystal on the floor of the beaker, but invariably more crystals will form (I'm guessing due to seeding by impurities) which will eventually trap my big crystal on the bottom.

Any ideas on getting a large crystal without the use of a string?


I got a pretty big Copper Sulfate crystal once using a seed on the floor of the vessel, with time, more crystals really formed, but every time this happened, i just took the crystal i was growing out and filtered the solution.I kept doing this till i was happy with the size of the crystal.

I tried this with Iron(II) Sulfate and Cobalt(II) Sulfate and the first one worked like charm but with Cobalt, on the other hand, i could grow the crystal only till it got like 5mm, then it started to get quite hazy (in fact, i still don't know how to grow a big Cobalt Sulfate crystal, they all get very hazy and strange when bigger than 5mm more or less).

knowledgevschaos - 19-9-2023 at 18:20

I've had a few ideas, and I just thought I'd dump them here.

A few people seem to have trouble with a crust of crystals creeping up the edges of the container. I've had this problem too, particularly with copper sulfate. My theory is that this happens because the meniscus on the glass draws the solution up into a thin layer that evaporates more rapidly. I think that by rubbing the glass with an oil / petroleum jelly, the container would repel water, and this wouldn't be a problem. I haven't been able to test this yet though.

Solutions going moldy also seems to be a problem for many compounds, especially sugar and rochelle salt, and I think it could happen to ammonium dihydrogen phosphate too. I've even had magnesium sulfate grow microbes (how an organism can thrive in a saturated MgSO4 solution is beyond me!). Some people have suggested using iodine to kill microbes. would tincture of iodine (2.5% I2, 2.5%KI) be enough to kill the microbes, and would the potassium iodide interfere with the crystal structure?
Thanks everyone.

Cathoderay - 21-9-2023 at 16:46

I have heard of coating the inside of the container with wax.
Don't let the solution get between the wax and the container though.

yobbo II - 22-9-2023 at 06:01


Perhaps an untra-violet light would help with the microbes?

Yob

SnailsAttack - 22-9-2023 at 21:11

Quote: Originally posted by knowledgevschaos  
A few people seem to have trouble with a crust of crystals creeping up the edges of the container. I've had this problem too, particularly with copper sulfate. My theory is that this happens because the meniscus on the glass draws the solution up into a thin layer that evaporates more rapidly.
Yeah, I think it's a capillary pumping effect. NaCl and NH₄H₂PO₄ do it, and the puffy white crystals formed by Ca(CH₃COO)₂ seem to be dictated almost entirely by this effect, although it manifests very differently than with the previous two salts.

Quote: Originally posted by knowledgevschaos  
I think that by rubbing the glass with an oil / petroleum jelly, the container would repel water, and this wouldn't be a problem. I haven't been able to test this yet though.
Huh, I might give that a try as well.

Quote: Originally posted by knowledgevschaos  
Solutions going moldy also seems to be a problem for many compounds, especially sugar and rochelle salt
I've had potassium bitartrate go moldy; no surprise that rochelle salt would do it as well.

Quote: Originally posted by knowledgevschaos  
.. and I think it could happen to ammonium dihydrogen phosphate too.
I've spent months recrystallizing some monoammonium phosphate that had a bunch of food dye in it and it's never grown mold; that's not to say it couldn't happen, though.

Quote: Originally posted by knowledgevschaos  
I've even had magnesium sulfate grow microbes (how an organism can thrive in a saturated MgSO4 solution is beyond me!).
Yes, this happened to me as well, except mine was also incredibly alkaline. Posted about it here. The replies are very interesting. Thread is illustrated nicely by Mayko and Metacelsus:
Quote: Originally posted by mayko  
tied for first: these crudlings, surviving in the face of impressive osmotic stress and feeding on ... ?
files.php.jpg - 9kB
Quote: Originally posted by Metacelsus  
Life, uh, finds a way.

Nickel Sulfate Crystal

Sir_Gawain - 4-11-2023 at 14:15

This one took about a month and a half.
IMG_6429.JPG - 736kB

IMG_6431.JPG - 670kB

It's actually much more green than the camera shows.

DraconicAcid - 4-11-2023 at 14:16

Wow!

Don't put nickel compounds on your skin.

Sir_Gawain - 4-11-2023 at 14:20

Yeah, I washed thoroughly afterward.

Eithern - 22-11-2023 at 13:59

Quote: Originally posted by knowledgevschaos  

A few people seem to have trouble with a crust of crystals creeping up the edges of the container. I've had this problem too, particularly with copper sulfate. My theory is that this happens because the meniscus on the glass draws the solution up into a thin layer that evaporates more rapidly. I think that by rubbing the glass with an oil / petroleum jelly, the container would repel water, and this wouldn't be a problem. I haven't been able to test this yet though.


Guys I had the same problem recently with ammonium nitrate, what do you think about using non-stick pans as crystallization dishes?

knowledgevschaos - 29-11-2023 at 02:12

I think that would work, as far as I know teflon repels water. What was your goal with the ammonium nitrate? It isn't a material usually used to grow crystals, and I'd be curious to know what the crystals look like.
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