Sciencemadness Discussion Board

Recommendations for Geiger Counter or Scintillation Detector

Texium - 16-7-2015 at 09:54

I've been considering purchasing some kind of radiation detecting device for doing some future uranium ore hunting and radiochemistry. I went to Google and began looking at various Geiger counters and scintillation detectors, and was very overwhelmed by the sheer number of different ones and the wide range of prices. I honestly have no idea how to determine what kind I should buy. In fact, I don't even know whether a Geiger counter or a scintillation detector would be better for what I need. I was hoping that some of the resident radiochemistry enthusiasts would be able to help me out.

aga - 16-7-2015 at 11:46

Since Fukishima, there are several models made and sold in Japan.

I got one that says it measures micro sieverts/hour which is very portable, yet very unintersting.

I also got this kit :-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-NetIO-Geiger-Counter-Embedded-...

which includes an SBM-20U tube.

Other tubes are supposedly supported, although i have no info as to the differences.

Ozone - 17-7-2015 at 03:41

In reality, you'd want both. Geiger tubes are sensitive primarily to beta (and alpha if the window is thin enough). The counting efficiency for gammas is very low. On the other hand, a typical [say, NaI(Tl)] scintillation detector is very sensitive for gammas and (for sealed probes) nothing else.

For prospecting I'd recommend a decent scaler (say, Ludlum 14C or Eberline 510; see Ebay) and a pancake probe (good for alpha/beta with a removable beta/gamma shields). The Ludlum scalers are also directly useful (and can be voltage tuned to whatever plateau you need) with a cheap, but sensitive scintillator such as a Bicron 1.12X1.12M3/1.2L (about $99 USD).

For spectroscopy, I use a Ludlum 44-10 2x2" NaI(Tl) with a Gamma Spectacular GS-1100-Pro soundcard MCA & variable PSU...but, that's another story.

O3

neptunium - 17-7-2015 at 05:19

if you doing some prospecting you might want the scintillation type they are more sensitive to gamma ray as Ozone pointed out, and most uranium and thorium ore have gamma emission .
this one is very simple yet rugged, perfect for carrying around ...


MINI_Instruments_Radiation_Monitor.JPG - 112kB
for radio chemistry and isotopes identification you`ll need a gamma spectrometer and a alpha spectrometer but thats a different range of prices..

careysub - 17-7-2015 at 06:21

Suggestions are right - you want a sensitive gamma detector for survey work due to their range in air.

All natural ores of uranium and thorium will have accumulated decay chain products that put out strong gammas.

There are quite a variety of radiation detectors available in Japan now, thanks to Fukushima, many marketed to the mass public. The health monitor read-outs(microsieverts/hour., etc.) are less useful than raw click-counting devices.

For close up specimen work I have been looking at Geiger counter kits, of which there are several available from $75-$100 for the counter itself (w/o tube) but you need to assemble them.

A good tube to use is the LND712:
https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/General/LND-7...
for $95. It has an alpha end window. With different screens (e.g. thicknesses of aluminum or what-have-you) you can generate some information on the emission profile of a specimen. You need to confirm that the voltage handled by any kit is compatible with that required by the tube you want to use.

It was not until 1928 that the Geiger counter was invented, and the electronic scintillation counter was not invented until 1944, so quite a lot of radiochemistry was done before fancy gamma ray spectometry was available. This is similar to the situation with GLC and HPLC chromatography which are considered essential for chemistry labs today, yet nearly two centuries of successful chemistry preceded them, and the modern hobbyist does quite a lot without.

[Edited on 17-7-2015 by careysub]

[Edited on 17-7-2015 by careysub]

Texium - 17-7-2015 at 09:59

Thank you all for the suggestions! I've been looking over the different ones posted here, and the one that neptunium suggested seems to be the one that is most in my price range. I found a used one on eBay for a good price: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321368691563?_trksid=p2055119.m1438....

I just wanted to make sure though: that detector with that tube will work well for identifying uranium ore? And I don't really need anything fancy for lab work, I just wanted to be able to check for contamination in my lab and on my glassware with it. Sorry that I'm so illiterate when it comes to the specs of these things.

Ozone - 17-7-2015 at 15:29

A good scintillator (at proper voltage for the PMT) will detect (decent) Uranium ore easily 1-2 away. So...yes.

Background counts are higher, too, though, so you might want to make sure you can mute the audio output (it's cool at first, but gets old quickly).

edit: Ugh, I just noticed the one you are looking at is a GM...Regardless, it will be more than enough to get you started (presuming it works).

O3

[Edited on 17-7-2015 by Ozone]

Ludlum 14C and Bicron scintillator_01_small.jpg - 281kB calibration sources_01_smaller.jpg - 258kB

[Edited on 18-7-2015 by Ozone]

pneumatician - 10-11-2015 at 07:08

Another cheap option is this:

http://petapixel.com/tag/scintillator/

someone tested this? Also is used for astrophoto, another very interesting use!!

to Careysub

neptunium - 26-11-2015 at 13:58

use 0.1uF for C and 100Kohm for R
runs at about 2000V DC

resistor chain.jpg - 17kB

Sulaiman - 26-11-2015 at 15:29

I will try to find the circuit diagram (from Hamamatsu application notes somewhere)
in which the multi-stage Cockroft-Walton type multiplier gives c100 v per stage (suitable for my photomultiplier, others may differ),
combining multiplier and divider in a low loss circuit.
It is such a useful circuit that it must be quite common.

Edit: found it, or similar, https://www.hamamatsu.com/resources/pdf/etd/PMT_handbook_v3a...
page 96
P.S. increasing capacitance value of the capacitors drawn in the diagram in the right hand 'column' decreases ripple voltages.
P.P.S. a worthwhile reference if you are considering using a photomultiplier.

[Edited on 26-11-2015 by Sulaiman]

[Edited on 26-11-2015 by Sulaiman]

Scintillation Probes

careysub - 26-11-2015 at 16:45

Neptunium's post is in connection with a project I have started for building scintillation probes and systems.

Currently I am using a nice kit put together by "iradinc" on eBay, using a 3" Hamamatsu R10133 PMT Photomultiplier Tube, and a 3"x2.25" plastic scintillation block. it is intended for sweeping along the ground for field surveying, so it needs to be rugged. I would be using it with a Ludlum 2221 rate meter/scaler.

I already have a Ludlum 44-2 gamma detector scintillator, 2.5 D x 2.5 cm Nal crystal.

http://www.ludlums.com/component/virtuemart/area-monitoring-...

I am also interested in experimenting with gamma spectroscopy, and trying a cheap set-up seems the way to begin.

careysub - 28-11-2015 at 16:54

What is the recommended procedure for coating the scintillation block/PM tube interface?

I have experience doing oil separated achromatic lenses - there you just put a drop of oil in the concave lens surface, place the second lens on top and wait a day or so for the film to migrate to the edge. If it does not, you can always separate them and try again (and it is easy to see).

With the thicker optical "grease" and the fact that you can't see how even the the coat is, thinks look a little trickier.

My plan was to make a ~quarter sized smear on the PM tube (as even as I can), heat the plastic block up to maybe 60 C, and place the tube on top with a bean bag weight, and wait for the stuff to migrate to the edge. I am not using this probe for spectroscopy, just pulse counting, so I imagine the requirements aren't as stringent.

IrC - 8-12-2015 at 19:09

A few useful PDF's I have accumulated, size too great in total for one post.


Attachment: Photomultiplier_Handbook.pdf (4.2MB)
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Attachment: pmtinfo.pdf (19kB)
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Attachment: scintillation_probe.pdf (99kB)
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Attachment: ScintillatorsData.pdf (1.5MB)
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IrC - 8-12-2015 at 19:41

I think the values in neptunium's circuit should be looked at. 0.1 uF is going to give a somewhat slow time constant, especially for NaI/Tl, and using 100K resistors gives rise to excessive current flow and therefore more noise than necessary.

Attachment: Scintillators.pdf (3.9MB)
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Attachment: dt590_to_nai.pdf (538kB)
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Attachment: Amperex_1958.pdf (743kB)
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Attachment: xp2102data.pdf (83kB)
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However the reason I am posting is to see if anyone can answer a question. I have found a couple places that can restore old NaI/Tl crystals that were yellowing/shrinking, yet charge too much for me to have it done. I doubt either one would provide their secret methods, I know slow careful heating is involved. I am wanting to save a project I put much effort into which ended up going nowhere due to a less than honest seller. Twice I purchased a great looking end on mica window tube for $80 each and both were useless. I used a case from a CDV700, built a board for the HV power supply and analog circuitry, a regulator so I had clean voltage sources to run a blue 16x2 LCD and Arduino Mega 2560, with four 18650 Li-ion batteries. Even added a regulator so I could just plug in a wall wort and recharge the 12 volt Li-ion battery pack. All in all a very great looking project. Problem is both tubes have lost their quench gas over the years through the mica windows so no matter how carefully adjusted and regulated by a very good circuit I designed the NOS tubes just go into avalanche when I get in the range for detection. Put simply the seller ripped me off for $160 total on these tubes leaving the entire project DOA. So I finally decided to use the PM tube - NaI/Tl assembly I salvaged from a 111B scintillator (the model that looks like a cool chrome ray gun). However the trouble there is dried out optical coupling and yellow crystal. I have the optical grease of the proper type so all I need to do is fix the crystal and remount it, and do a little redesign on the high voltage analog section. If I had received good GM tubes as advertised this project would have been a done deal almost 2 years ago. I had intended one to be a spare or possibly a whole new project. Appears the best low cost way to salvage my effort and money is to just build a scintillator out of this project. Assuming I can learn the proper way to restore my crystal without harming it. Anyone have useful information on the process?

Just remembered I had in the beginning posted some pics of this project before all the work was done and before the digital display + Mega had been added. You can see one of the two defective tubes the ebay seller sent me. Didn't work due to quench problems so hoping to get lucky on NOS I yet again risked $80 as only he had this type tube and I searched a long time. Had to take the risk to justify the effort building this project, I was finished with all work but the tube was a failure.

http://www.sciencemadness.org/talk/viewthread.php?tid=28985

Attachment: gamma.pdf (520kB)
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Attachment: NaI(Tl) Data Sheet.pdf (275kB)
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Attachment: Refurbishing an old but special large detector.pdf (2.6MB)
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This last file is useful for information but no way would I be sawing my NaI/Tl crystal. Having suffered from Tl poisoning decades ago I find creating a pile of the dust moronic at best unless one likes to lay in bed at night soaking in sweat for a very long time. Also the purpose of the optical grease is to aid light coupling and creating a surface looking like the craters of the moon on a microscopic scale is not a good idea. Not to mention polishing the surface is yet another source of Tl poisoning. The amount that can do serious long term harm is extremely low. Therefore I advise do not do what this person did even if it did seem to work for him.


[Edited on 12-9-2015 by IrC]

IrC - 12-12-2015 at 04:30

On my comment about the PM circuit values posted previously, I suggest this image be studied.

feu-31-divider-pulse-amplifier-electrical-circuit.JPG - 71kB

Source:

http://www.rhelectronics.net/store/simple-homemade-diy-gamma...

neptunium - 5-2-2017 at 23:25

Quote: Originally posted by careysub  
What is the recommended procedure for coating the scintillation block/PM tube interface?

I have experience doing oil separated achromatic lenses - there you just put a drop of oil in the concave lens surface, place the second lens on top and wait a day or so for the film to migrate to the edge. If it does not, you can always separate them and try again (and it is easy to see).

With the thicker optical "grease" and the fact that you can't see how even the the coat is, thinks look a little trickier.

My plan was to make a ~quarter sized smear on the PM tube (as even as I can), heat the plastic block up to maybe 60 C, and place the tube on top with a bean bag weight, and wait for the stuff to migrate to the edge. I am not using this probe for spectroscopy, just pulse counting, so I imagine the requirements aren't as stringent.



Yes it is very tricky. I had a lot of trouble with that interface. EBay has this optical grease for sale pretty cheap but very difficult to get a clear coating between the crystal and the PM tube... I had good results with baby oil but it always evaporate after a while. You might be on to something with some form of wax...
It is vitaly important it is to have the best optical connection as possible for spectroscopy otherwise the spectrum looks like one big ugly smudge

Somerset - 16-3-2017 at 17:29

Model car diff heavy silicon grease can be used as optical grease

Radium212 - 27-6-2017 at 00:28

Quote: Originally posted by zts16  
I've been considering purchasing some kind of radiation detecting device for doing some future uranium ore hunting and radiochemistry. I went to Google and began looking at various Geiger counters and scintillation detectors, and was very overwhelmed by the sheer number of different ones and the wide range of prices. I honestly have no idea how to determine what kind I should buy. In fact, I don't even know whether a Geiger counter or a scintillation detector would be better for what I need. I was hoping that some of the resident radiochemistry enthusiasts would be able to help me out.

For a nice, cheap Geiger counter use the GMC 300E +. For something more rugged, and with a probe try a Ludlum (expensive), or maybe get an old CD V-700.

Radiation detector for minerals on a budget

diddi - 17-5-2018 at 01:08

I have been looking at radiation detectors available for the application of element sample testing, but more importantly, mineral ID and composition. There are many available online with prices from USD20 to USD (more than i can afford)
The issue with minerals is that the bulk of the decays likely to be detected are alpha emissions. All of the cheap detectors do not detect alpha so they are no use for my applications.
So my question to the radiochemists here is "Can i make my own geiger counter". Can i build an interface to PC and use different tubes for different radiation types? I dont know enough about the possibilities.
I do know about the gamma spectroscopy project in progress, but i am on a budget and just dont have thousands to invest in a tool that is really only supporting a hobby. TIA

LearnedAmateur - 17-5-2018 at 01:19

Am-241 based smoke detectors work via alpha radiation, maybe one of these can be modified into a makeshift Geiger counter that works via current/voltage? I’m useless when it comes to electronics so I can’t help you out there though, but other members should be able to give you some pointers.

Harristotle - 17-5-2018 at 01:42

Most alpha emitters are not pure alpha emitters - they undergo secondary gamma emission as the k shell electrons rearrange themselves to cope with a great big gob of nuclear material being ripped out of them.

For this reason, a good gamma detector can detect classical "alpha" emitters, even though the window should stop everything.

However, those inner electron rearrangements are also often not very energetic, and you still need to be close to detect.

(A very old and dusty crypt in my mind just opened to remember that!)

j_sum1 - 17-5-2018 at 01:52

I have seen yt clips on making your own geiger cointer. I don't know how well they work.

Harristotle - 17-5-2018 at 03:29

Well, I wrote one for an arduino a long while ago.

I ran the arduino off a 9 volt battery, and cannabilised an old camera with flash to get a cheap and highly efficient hv supply (cost 50 cents at Vinnies - aka a thrift store for those not of the great southern land).
I put a 1uF capacitor and 4 x 100v zener in series then fed a sbm20 russian tube in series with a 10 meg ohm resistor. I coupled the junction of the tube and the resistor to an optocoupler via a small capacitor (100pF I think) and used the output photodiode to trigger one of the digital pins on the arduino. Something like this:

It works well, and is able to "see"a uranium glass button I have at over 4 times background.

Code: (Some pinched, some my own)
/* Geiger Counter Interface Example BroHogan 1/26/10
* A very simple example of interfacing to the Geiger Counter circuit and counting
* the events / min. It triggers an LED and piezo for each event but this is not
* necessary since these are included in the circuit.
* *INT from circuit is connected to PIN 2 and triggered as FALLING.
*
* Keypad LCD notes: The keypad uses a single a/d line (A0) and it reads the
* resistance. The keys are aranged as a "resistance ladder", so you can tell by the
* resistance on A0 which key is pressed. Pin 13 generated the voltage at the top of
* the ladder, so to poll the keys you must both set pin 13 high and read A0

* Circuit notes:
* This works with the following:
*
*
* 4N25 optocoupler
*
*<--------| /-------/\/\/\-----+ve 5v
* | ^ |/
* V / |
* --- / |\ ____________/\/\/\_____> int pin 3
* | v |
*<--------- ------|-->|----|
* to gm circuit |
*LED Led1 |
* white V gnd
* 3.9v bandgap
*/
//#include <LCD4Bit_mod.h> // 4 bit lcd keypad shield
//#include <Tone.h> // used for non-blocking tone
#include <TimedAction.h> // THIS LIB MODIFIED - now uses long & public interval


#define PIEZO_PIN 13
#define LED_PIN 11 // pin 11 is led to flash in time with counts
#define PERIOD 10000 // collect counts in 10 seconds
#define DISP_FREQ 5000 // how often to display counts
#define TONE_FREQ 4000
//Tone tone;
TimedAction cntDisp = TimedAction(DISP_FREQ,displayCount); // instanciate timed action for display

//LCD4Bit_mod lcd = LCD4Bit_mod(2); // make an lcd object

volatile boolean newEvent = false; // indicates a new event was caught by ISR
unsigned long startTime, startPeriod;
unsigned long cpmCnt, dispCnt, totalCnt, totalCPM, totalPeriods;
char countstring [15];


void setup(){
cpmCnt = 0;
dispCnt =0;
totalCnt = 0;
totalCPM =0;

Serial.begin(9600);
pinMode(LED_PIN,OUTPUT);
//pinMode(3,OUTPUT); //put geiger pin into low impedence state
//attachInterrupt(0,GetEvent,FALLING); // Geiger event on pin 2 triggers interrupt
attachInterrupt(1,GetEvent,FALLING); // Geiger event on pin 3 triggers interrupt
// tone.begin(PIEZO_PIN);
startTime = millis();
startPeriod = startTime;

pinMode(13, OUTPUT); //we'll use the debug LED to output a heartbeat to drive keypad
//lcd.init();
//optionally, now set up our application-specific display settings, overriding whatever the lcd did in lcd.init()
//lcd.commandWrite(0x0F);//cursor on, display on, blink on. (nasty!)
// lcd.clear();
//lcd.printIn("Geiger counter");
//lcd.cursorTo(2, 0); //line=2, x=0
//lcd.printIn("V1.0 by L Harris");
//delay(500);
//lcd.clear();

memset(countstring, 0, sizeof(countstring)); // fill LCD message with nulls
}

void loop(){
cntDisp.check(); // check if should display the counts
if (millis() > startPeriod + PERIOD) Reset_Counter();
if (newEvent){
updateCount();
//tone.play(TONE_FREQ,100); // short non-blocking tone
digitalWrite(LED_PIN,HIGH); // indicate an event
delay(25);
newEvent = false;
digitalWrite(LED_PIN,LOW);
}
}

void Reset_Counter(){ // aggragate totals and reset counters for each period
totalPeriods ++;
dispCnt = cpmCnt;
totalCPM += cpmCnt;
cpmCnt = 0;
startPeriod = millis(); // reset time
}


void updateCount(){
totalCnt++; // update total count since startup
cpmCnt++;
}

void displayCount(){
Serial.print(dispCnt * 6,DEC);
//lcd.cursorTo(2, 0); //line=2, x=0

//snprintf(countstring, 17, " "); // clear out the old garbage
//lcd.printIn(countstring);
//lcd.cursorTo(2, 0); //line=2, x=0
//snprintf(countstring, 15, "%i CPM", dispCnt);

// lcd.printIn(countstring);
Serial.print(" CPM ");
Serial.print(dispCnt * 4,DEC); // I've read that counts in 40 sec = uR/H
Serial.print(" uR/H ");
Serial.print("Avg CPM: ");
Serial.print((totalCPM * 6) / totalPeriods,DEC);
Serial.print(" Avg uR/H: ");
Serial.print((totalCPM * 4) / totalPeriods,DEC);
Serial.print(" Total Count: ");
Serial.println(totalCnt,DEC);
}

void GetEvent(){ // triggered for each new event
newEvent = true;
}




SmoothDraw4_2018-05-17_19-20-04.png - 148kB

diddi - 17-5-2018 at 18:25

that looks rather interesting. some careful study required there. thx

pantone159 - 17-5-2018 at 20:23

About the only common substance that will emit just alphas, and no gammas, is Po-210. That is not so significant in most minerals. You are better off sure, with an alpha detector, but a gamma detector should get you something.

diddi - 17-5-2018 at 22:08

if i get a cheap one and it does not work, then it is only a few $ wasted i guess. it might work as you say.

phlogiston - 18-5-2018 at 07:34

Do you need to detect a tiny trace of thorium in rare-earth minerals or is it sufficient to distinguish between pitchblende and hematite?

Regarding alpha/beta/gamma emissions: minerals contain all the daughter isotopes associated with the uranium or thorium parent. Many of those daughters are gamma and/or beta emitters and can be detected with a geiger counter.
For every decay of an atom of the parent isotope, there is on average one decay of one atom of every daughter in the series/

I've made a simple geiger counter from a Z1A/J302ßy geiger tube and an electric fly squatter. Its not very sensitive, but convenient to quickly distinguish between radioactive and non-radioactive rocks.

diddi - 18-5-2018 at 23:30

Well the latest news is that i have found a source who custom builds geiger counters. i picked a russian tube (SBM20 pancake) that detects alpha beta and gamma, filters and even the colour of the display. and the best bit is i got the whole thing for under USD100 inc shipping. so in a couple of weeks i shall up a review for those interested.

thanks for all the info from everyone

phlogiston - 19-5-2018 at 08:25

Cool. However, SBM20 is not a pancake detector. Seems like it might be wise to make sure it is clear to both of you what you want/ordered.

diddi - 19-5-2018 at 21:29

you're right. i actually have SBT11. the other was a cheaper option. and i was slack on previous post

stamasd - 16-6-2018 at 09:18

I made my own counters from kits and vintage Russian pancake GM tubes from ebay. I'm lazy so I purchased counter kits from RHelectronics http://www.rhelectronics.net/store/diy-geiger-counter-kit.ht... particularly the one named
"ARDUINO IDE GEIGER COUNTER DIY KIT VER.2 WITH LCD; W/O GM TUBE"
They work well with the Russian pancake counters, though the dose calculator needs to be adjusted for each tube if you want some semblance of accuracy. You need to change a variable in the software then recompile in the Arduino IDE and reupload to the counter.
The particular tubes I use with those are:
Si-22G large tube, tubular not pancake, quite sensitive but not for alpha, only beta/bgamma
SBT11A - small pancake tube, very portable, decent sensitivity
SBT10A - large pancake tube, about 4x the size of the above, very sensitive but a bit cumbersome
Si-8B - large circular pancake tube, even more sensitive than the SBT10A in my experience.

The last 3 can detect alpha.

I mounted the above tubes+counter combinations on sticks of wood, so that I can test stuff at a distance. About a 1m long stick, 5cm wide and 1cm thick was used for this. The detector is mounted at one end of the stick, high voltage wires (rated for 1000V) connect it to the detector which is mounted about 10cm from the other end together with a battery holder. I call them my GeigerSticks. :) I had some pictures somewhere but can't find them now.

More information on tubes https://sites.google.com/site/diygeigercounter/gm-tubes-supp...

(edit) note that you can only detect alpha radiation up to distances about 3-4cm away from the source, no matter how sensitive the tube is. That's because the free path of alpha particles in the air is no longer than 5cm.


[Edited on 16-6-2018 by stamasd]

pneumatician - 15-2-2019 at 16:00

I check again prices and surprise! from 250 € some years ago now you can get one like this for...
https://www.ebay.de/itm/GM-Tube-Dosimeter-Geiger-Counter-Nuc...

VSEPR_VOID - 15-2-2019 at 17:33

I have a counter I can sell you for a hundred bucks. Its an old survey meter from the cold war. U2U me

Spock - 16-2-2019 at 15:05

Quote: Originally posted by VSEPR_VOID  
Its an old survey meter from the cold war.

Out of curiosity, what type of meter is it?

Geiger counter advice please

Lion850 - 17-1-2020 at 02:10

I want to buy a Geiger counter and I am looking at one listed on eBay with the following link:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Geiger-Counter-Beta-Gamma-X-ray-...

Picture of the listing below. I have no experience with Geiger counters. The reason I want one is to check the radioactivity of my uranyl acetate before I use it and then to check the glassware and so on afterwards. Maybe overkill but just to be sure, and something else to learn about.

If there are members on here knowledgeable about Geiger counter use, can you please comment and tell me if this one will be suitable, or if you perhaps can suggest another model from experience?

Thanks in advance.

IMG_5341.jpg - 371kB

B(a)P - 17-1-2020 at 02:38

Uranyl acetate is a much bigger concern from an ingestion/inhalation toxicity exposure scenario. It is also mostly an alpha emitter I think? Does that counter pick up alpha? All in all though I don't think radiation will be you issue in handling this substance. I have not had experience handling the substance myself though.

Lion850 - 17-1-2020 at 02:50

From what I read so far yes it seems the radiation is so low that it is not a concern, but it is indeed toxic inside the body. Thanks for the heads up on the alpha detection. From the eBay data listed alpha is not mentioned, but it does say it can be used to measure uranium.

Sulaiman - 17-1-2020 at 03:30

I believe that a small uv lamp (or maybe LED) would cause uranyl salts to fluoresce in the visible/detectable/measurable spectral region.
It could be quite sensitive ? ... in the dark

pantone159 - 17-1-2020 at 07:21

To detect alphas, you need a detector with a thin (mica?) window. Alphas have such low penetration that they will be blocked by anything more substantial. With such a mica window, alphas are picked up easily by a geiger counter.
You will get some gammas from your U, so you should pick up something without the alphas though.

unionised - 17-1-2020 at 10:45

The "specific activity" of uranium is about 25 Bq/mg
So, if very careless washing leaves a whole miligram of uranium on the glassware it will emit about 25 particles per second.
Almost all of that activity will be alpha emission- and the geiger won't "see" it because practically none will get through the plastic case.
Geiger tubes are roughly 1% efficient for gamma detection- generally, the gammas just fly through the detector without "hitting" anything.

So the total best guess is that your mg of uranium would produce about 1 click every 4 seconds.
But at best, only half of them could possibly be expected to go in the "right" direction.
So that's a click every 8 seconds- if the geiger tube is big enough to cover half the glassware.

Realistically, you might hope to get about 1 click per minute due to very dirty glassware.

Even a really good GEiger isn't going to do much better.
Maybe, if you had a good scintillation detector... What's your budget?

Fluorescence with a uv torch or uv LED is a better bet.




draculic acid69 - 17-1-2020 at 19:26

How much depleted uranium acetate would one need to invest to die? How many milligrammes/grams/Oz would it take? Would you die from heavy metal toxicity or from radiation?

B(a)P - 18-1-2020 at 01:22

It is not quite as simple as that, as we are all different. It is generally accepted for inhalation that less than 0.05 mg/m3 in air is safe for adults. The immediately dangerous to life and health level is 10 mg/m3. Anything north of that is potentially going to be lethal.
For ingestion LD 50 for rats in 207 mg/kg.
The compound acts on your kidneys and over exposure usually results in death from renal failure.

unionised - 18-1-2020 at 06:33

Quote: Originally posted by draculic acid69  
How much depleted uranium acetate would one need to invest to die? How many milligrammes/grams/Oz would it take? Would you die from heavy metal toxicity or from radiation?

It would almost certainly be the toxicity (rather than the radioactivity) that killed you.
It is difficult to see how this would matter.

This suggests that some bloke survived a gram of the corresponding nitrate
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK158798/bin/LSE2.pdf

But I'd not like to bet on it.


Schleimsäure - 18-1-2020 at 07:43

I have some uranyl acetate. Just be sure to not get it into your system (inhalation, digestion) since its quite soluable in body fluids. The alpha decay would then stay in your body and attack the cells continuously and directly.

It's a weak alpha emitter, so no concerns on its radiation in the environment.
When I use my Geiger/Müller counter on the bottle it goes to up to 180 microSV.
That's basically harmless.

Schleimsäure - 18-1-2020 at 07:51

And concerning Geigercounters, they only detect gamma. But also a weak alpha emitter like uranyl acetate emitts some gamma, which will be detected by every Geigercounter.
I think it's like 90% alpha, 6% beta and 4% gamma or something like that.

Heptylene - 19-1-2020 at 02:36

A gamma/beta detector isn't ideal for use with uranium salts. Uranium salts contain (almost) only uranium isotopes (238, 235, 234), which are alpha emitters, with little beta and gamma from the small quantities of decay products that have accumulated since manufacture.

Uranium ore on the other hand also contains all the decay products of uranium in secular equilibrium, each of which has an activity equal to that of the uranium isotope it came from. At secular equilibrium, the isotopes are produced as fast as they decay, so their amount doesn't change much over time, and they each contribute equal amounts to the radioactivity (in number of particles emitted per second).

So uranium ore is much more radioactive than pure uranium and we can estimate by how much from the decay chain below.
There are a total of 8 alpha decays and 6 beta decays per uranium 238 atom to reach stable Lead-206. Uranium-238 makes up most of natural uranium and has, by itself, an activity of about 12.5 kBq/mg. That's 12500 decomposition events per second per gram not only for U-238 but also for each decay product, for a combined total of 8x12.5 = 100 kBq/g as alpha particles and 6x12.5 = 75 kBq as beta particles. Almost as much beta as alpha activity!

There's a nice website that explains the principle of secular equilibrium, from which I took the activity plot below. You can see that soon after purification uranium has mostly U-238 and U-234 alpha emission. After years, you start to get beta decays from Th-234 and Pa-234m. And after millions of years you are at equilibrium, hence why this kind of thing only happens in uranium minerals!

(The contribution of the U-235 decay chain is negligible in comparison to U-238, as U-235 has an activity of only about 5% that of U-238 in natural ores)

Additionally, beta particles (which are simply electrons with high energies) can interact with the nuclei of atoms (especially heavy ones such as uranium) to produce x-rays. A phenomenon known as Bremsstrahlung which is used in x-ray tubes for that exact purpose. X-rays are high energy photons, same as gamma rays. The yield of x-rays is low but not zero. So uranium ore produces both beta particles and x-rays in addition to alphas, which is why it can be easily be detected by beta- and gamma-only geiger counters.

If you want to use a geiger counter for safety reasons when using uranium, you should really get one which is sensitive to alpha particles. Especially since uranium chemistry involves purification steps, such that you cannot count on the decay products to make the uranium "visible" to a beta/gamma detector.

Decay chain U.jpg - 116kB

actunat.gif - 7kB

Lion850 - 19-1-2020 at 22:24

Thanks members for all the info and advice.

Texium - 4-4-2022 at 15:26

Last year I finally got around to buying a device. I went with an old CD V-700 from eBay. It previously belonged to the state of Nebraska and had been serviced/inspected a couple years before, so I figured that there was a good chance of it actually working, and it would appear that it does. It was a good deal, and it came in the original box with the original manual, a couple dosimeter pens, and a charger for the pens. Those probably don't work, but they're cool antiques nonetheless. The whole lot was about $200. Here's some pictures. I was able to get a faint response from a banana with the beta shield open, and a stronger response from an americium source out of a smoke detector. Wanted to post these because I wasn't able to find much info on what these models are capable of detecting without modification.

64317011694__B894DC62-7646-4B0E-A9E3-B093BE52F4CF.jpg - 2.5MB 64317017818__D79947EC-CD2B-4BEA-B52C-27959AD1E5DF.jpg - 3MB

IMG_1917.jpg - 2.3MB IMG_1918.jpg - 2.3MB

Given that it responds well to the weak gamma from the americium source, is it safe to say that this meter could work well for identifying hot rocks out in the desert? I don't currently own any ore to test it with.

Mateo_swe - 20-10-2022 at 01:16

I have a GMC-500 and its a really nice unit with wifi, USB and logging features.
But it does only detect Beta, Gamma and X-Ray, no alpha.
One can install different tubes in it, maybe a alpha tube is avaliable.
Its also american made, good quality.

GMC-500



Deathunter88 - 20-10-2022 at 01:44

Quote: Originally posted by Texium  
Last year I finally got around to buying a device. I went with an old CD V-700 from eBay. It previously belonged to the state of Nebraska and had been serviced/inspected a couple years before, so I figured that there was a good chance of it actually working, and it would appear that it does. It was a good deal, and it came in the original box with the original manual, a couple dosimeter pens, and a charger for the pens. Those probably don't work, but they're cool antiques nonetheless. The whole lot was about $200. Here's some pictures. I was able to get a faint response from a banana with the beta shield open, and a stronger response from an americium source out of a smoke detector. Wanted to post these because I wasn't able to find much info on what these models are capable of detecting without modification.





Given that it responds well to the weak gamma from the americium source, is it safe to say that this meter could work well for identifying hot rocks out in the desert? I don't currently own any ore to test it with.


Go look up antiprotons on Youtube, he has many in depth videos on different types of geiger counters, including your model.

What geiger counter to buy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBpi7rUh26k

Victoreen CD V-700 Model 6A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQLbUaE6CB0



yobbo II - 15-3-2023 at 15:06


Geo Electronics on ebay has lots of interesting stuff.
I purchased a Ledlum from him years ago with alpha heads.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_dkr=1&iconV2Request=tru...

Yob


[Edited on 15-3-2023 by yobbo II]

Herr Haber - 16-3-2023 at 08:49

Late January I got an SBT10A based counter from Lithuania (eBay) unfortunately it ceased functioning after a couple of days...
I first thought it was the battery since I had been playing forensics in my appartment for most of the weekend. I'll have to contact the seller and see if he cares that his unit broke down merely after days of usage.

But boy... that was scary and enlightening !

Three tritium vials put together: 92cpm 0.07µSv/h
The bottom of my bathtub: 294cpm 0.24µsV/h
"Cool" Uranium glass: 204cpm 0.16µSv/h
"Hot" Uranium glass: 6933 cpm 5.55µSv/h

The SBT10A tube is apparently very sensitive. I cant really explain the readings in my bathtub. I ended up in my bathroom looking for a place with the least background radiation. Imagine my surprise (and disbelief!) when I realized my bathtub is more radioactive than tritium vials !
I hope I can get this Geiger counter fixed easily, next place I'm taking it is 20 meters below Pierre and Marie Curie's old lab. I know they had a well where they would dump pechblende waste. I has been depoluted since but I'm curious how well the job was done :)