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Author: Subject: Det Cap Strategies
XeonTheMGPony
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[*] posted on 23-3-2019 at 15:38


Quote: Originally posted by MineMan  
Yes Xeon. Right up against the gloves. 75mg blows through 2 layers...

For the ematch why not dip it in nitrocellulose and primary mix? Say 15NC 70NiAgKCLO4, 15 Ammonium perchlorate.


that's exactly what is don, first dip is that, second and third are re-enforcing coatings to immobilize the bridge wire and prevent damage for hard packed dets

Only mine is Lead styphnate befor that was Mercury fulminate

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&...

[Edited on 23-3-2019 by XeonTheMGPony]
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FeedMe94
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[*] posted on 26-3-2019 at 23:54


I want to use my det caps as boosters too. Will this do the job ? 0.7 cast ETN, 0.3 hand pressed ETN and 100mg SADS
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XeonTheMGPony
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[*] posted on 27-3-2019 at 03:37


I've never bothered to cast, just press the ETN and go. but that should work.

[Edited on 27-3-2019 by XeonTheMGPony]
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[*] posted on 27-3-2019 at 04:30


Quote: Originally posted by FeedMe94  
I want to use my det caps as boosters too. Will this do the job ? 0.7 cast ETN, 0.3 hand pressed ETN and 100mg SADS


That'll do the job just fine.
I suppose some people would say that 100mg SADS is overkill but... why be cheap ?
I thought hand pressed on top of melt cast ETN was a good idea until I saw some tests where loose ETN failed to initiate while melt cast did initiate with the same amount of primary. These tests stand against every other publication on the subject, stand against common sense and intuition too so dont take my word for it.
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Rocinante
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[*] posted on 27-3-2019 at 12:26


Hand pressed ETN goes easily to 0.85 g/cm3 and hence about 70 kbar. 1 g of 70 kbar material will initiate anything that will detonate just from a blasting cap, provided that the BC material is not more than 3 mm thick in case of plastic or 1 mm in case of aluminium.
Extra high densities (pressing, melting) are just a game- Sure, it is nice - it saves material and it might - from time to time - mean a success where u'd fail with hand pressed ETN.... but that is rare

Press it inside a blast mittigation device - like my bucket and wear protection.
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XeonTheMGPony
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[*] posted on 27-3-2019 at 18:33


3mm steel plate.
1g hand pressed ETN
0.5g Mercury fulminate/ Potassium Chlorate 80/20
a dash of lead styphnate as a flame catcher (I've used Nitro Cotton in the past for this function)

Tube is sealed with glue impregnated tissue paper, then above that is crimped when the glue has set.

20190327_201048.jpg - 2.1MB

7mm OD 6.5mm ID, by 50mm length, 4.8 grams total assembly weight. End is sealed with a drip of Nitro Lacquer

20190327_195625.jpg - 197kB

[Edited on 28-3-2019 by XeonTheMGPony]
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FeedMe94
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[*] posted on 27-3-2019 at 22:21


Good looking detonator and works perfect. Is it arduino sensor casing ?
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FeedMe94
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[*] posted on 27-3-2019 at 22:27


Quote: Originally posted by Rocinante  
Hand pressed ETN goes easily to 0.85 g/cm3 and hence about 70 kbar. 1 g of 70 kbar material will initiate anything that will detonate just from a blasting cap, provided that the BC material is not more than 3 mm thick in case of plastic or 1 mm in case of aluminium.
Extra high densities (pressing, melting) are just a game- Sure, it is nice - it saves material and it might - from time to time - mean a success where u'd fail with hand pressed ETN.... but that is rare

Press it inside a blast mittigation device - like my bucket and wear protection.


Thank you for the info. Will it be better to add some PETN at the bottom and then some hand pressed ETN ?
Also whats a blast mittigation device?
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[*] posted on 27-3-2019 at 22:35


Wiki says that density of ETN is 1.72g / cm3 and
PETN 1.77g/cm3. That means i can fill 1.5g per cm3 easily ?
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[*] posted on 28-3-2019 at 00:53


Quote: Originally posted by FeedMe94  
Wiki says that density of ETN is 1.72g / cm3 and
PETN 1.77g/cm3. That means i can fill 1.5g per cm3 easily ?


Yea
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[*] posted on 28-3-2019 at 01:25


Quote: Originally posted by FeedMe94  
Wiki says that density of ETN is 1.72g / cm3 and
PETN 1.77g/cm3. That means i can fill 1.5g per cm3 easily ?


Not easily and please DO NOT start forcing it! The density values stated in Wiki are pretty much the maximum that can be achieved and to reach them an enormous pressing force has to be applied.
Shooting for 1,0-1,3g/cm3 is excellent for starters, as far as any practical purposes are concerned.

Keep safe!




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FeedMe94
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[*] posted on 28-3-2019 at 02:35


Thank you for that info. My casings are 6*50mm. For primary i have SADS and secondary i have ETN and PETN. Any advices or tips for how to do it ?
My fuse is visco
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[*] posted on 28-3-2019 at 02:47
CHP - ETN


According this test is possible go to on density 1,7 g/cc in the vise. Enormous pressing force was 150 - 200 Kg in described cavity.
For hand pressing was use about 30 - 40 Kg on density 1,3 g/cc.
Others values in the pictures.....:cool:...LL

pressed Berta1.jpg - 342kB

profile test ETN.jpg - 1.2MB




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[*] posted on 28-3-2019 at 03:39


Quote: Originally posted by FeedMe94  
Good looking detonator and works perfect. Is it arduino sensor casing ?


7mm chromed brass hobby tube, it is hard to find where I moved to, so am running out, but on AliExpress I found thermal wells that are near identical but better. they're sealed at the end and stainless steel

Can make nice commercial quality hermetically sealed dets.
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[*] posted on 28-3-2019 at 04:15


How many manipulations with your hands close to the det when you:

- Melt cast ETN
- Pour and press repeatedly

So no, it's not just a game. Obviously there is less danger if you boil a glass of water and suspend your det in in that ramming powder in increments.


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[*] posted on 28-3-2019 at 08:08


Hey. What kind of glue to you all use to seal your caps?? I bought like 4 different kinds. My goal was to find a thick clear gel glue that would dry rubbery like a glue gun. I would use a glue gun but it dries before it goes below the fuse.
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[*] posted on 28-3-2019 at 18:38


https://www.ebay.ca/itm/5-pcs-OD-6mm-OD-7mm-OD-8mm-SS304-The...

I use a good quality wood glue, no need to go all fancy. Weld bond is a good one.

I all so used 2 part epoxy for the ones I intended for under water stuff, using sand as a filler, after it is set I crimped to comperes seal it on top of the epoxy bond.

For the lower seal (Providing you care fully test for comparability) is Tissue paper and super glue for a fast seal, then a wood glue on top of it.

Other wise epoxy is a solid go to.

[Edited on 29-3-2019 by XeonTheMGPony]
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[*] posted on 31-3-2019 at 10:40


Ok I fabricated a simple primary pellet press to demonstrate.

When the pellet is placed over the base charge is when the cap is truly armed

20190331_112915.jpg - 408kB 20190331_112936.jpg - 255kB 20190331_112925.jpg - 299kB 20190331_121356.jpg - 325kB 20190331_121421.jpg - 216kB

Bore is 5mm deep by 4.5mm od, with the ejection pin it is 4.5mm deep.

The ID of the paper cartridge is 4mm, and will hold 200mg of Mercury fulminate/chlorate mix, and is made with standard printer paper.

A small bit of parchment paper can make a end cap on the under side (Ejection pin surface)

[Edited on 31-3-2019 by XeonTheMGPony]
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[*] posted on 1-4-2019 at 01:17


When I see fulminate and its pressing, my hair gets up in horror. Well, what. We all need our dose of adrenaline.....:D...LL



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[*] posted on 1-4-2019 at 03:20


Very nice Xeon !
The pellet looks very sturdy. Any idea on the pressure applied ? Did you use a binder ?
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[*] posted on 1-4-2019 at 04:26


It is bound in the paper tube, I hand pres lightly then do a final tamp with a hammer and machined pressing mandrel, few taps safely compresses it down solidly (Holding the mandrel remotely so fingers are not over it), no binders. You must use at minimum 2 layers of paper on the side to facilitate safe ejection

It is carefully cleaned between each operation to remove any lose primary from every part of it!

it is quite safe, even if it goes off the mandrel will be shot away with moderate force and you get confetti (Risk goes up as less paper is used) mind you I have yet to ever have it go off on me (Know what your primaries do, test test and test some more befor doing any thing with them)

An Arbour press is better but yet to get one, it is all so much safer with a proper press as one operation has much lower risk of one going off then multiple pressing operations.

So first press all your base charges, then press your primary pellets, then when ready those are pressed over the base charge and continue down the line

tools needed to make such a thing?, 2 drill bits, A drill press, 2 quality nails, a file, a drill, patience, and a fairly accurate means to measure.

Drill the guide hole as to accommodate the nails shaft that allows smooth movement, in the drill file down the head to a tight fit inside your chosen tube id, and find a matching drill bit. make a means to limit the depth of the drill bore for this larger diameter, and make a second drill hole. Smooth out all edges high grit count sand paper does this nicely. File a matching nail to the ID of the paper carrier shell and don (Again ensure this is nicely smoothed as well sharp edges are risks.

Brass is the best body material due to non sparking nature and is self lubricating to a degree but steel can be used, just implement more precautionary measures.

[Edited on 1-4-2019 by XeonTheMGPony]
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[*] posted on 1-4-2019 at 05:54


Quote: Originally posted by XeonTheMGPony  
It is bound in the paper tube, I hand pres lightly then do a final tamp with a hammer and machined pressing mandrel, few taps safely compresses it down solidly (Holding the mandrel remotely so fingers are not over it), no binders. You must use at minimum 2 layers of paper on the side to facilitate safe ejection

It is carefully cleaned between each operation to remove any lose primary from every part of it!

it is quite safe, even if it goes off the mandrel will be shot away with moderate force and you get confetti (Risk goes up as less paper is used) mind you I have yet to ever have it go off on me (Know what your primaries do, test test and test some more befor doing any thing with them)

An Arbour press is better but yet to get one, it is all so much safer with a proper press as one operation has much lower risk of one going off then multiple pressing operations.

So first press all your base charges, then press your primary pellets, then when ready those are pressed over the base charge and continue down the line

tools needed to make such a thing?, 2 drill bits, A drill press, 2 quality nails, a file, a drill, patience, and a fairly accurate means to measure.

Drill the guide hole as to accommodate the nails shaft that allows smooth movement, in the drill file down the head to a tight fit inside your chosen tube id, and find a matching drill bit. make a means to limit the depth of the drill bore for this larger diameter, and make a second drill hole. Smooth out all edges high grit count sand paper does this nicely. File a matching nail to the ID of the paper carrier shell and don (Again ensure this is nicely smoothed as well sharp edges are risks.

Brass is the best body material due to non sparking nature and is self lubricating to a degree but steel can be used, just implement more precautionary measures.

[Edited on 1-4-2019 by XeonTheMGPony]


Christ on a cross!! Hammering on primaries is really the last "best practices" approach that should be advertised publicly. Shock loads are the worst kind of danger factor, even when supposedly dosed in a gentle manner. I'm sure you know your limits and the substances, but someone less experienced may not and such practice should not be advocated as a viable approach regarding the topic at hand.
One can easily build a simple lever pressing device....out of wood for example. It takes no more than a saw, some drill bits, couple of bolts and screws. And it can be adequately shielded by simple means. Something that is very unlikely to be achieved with the "tapping" method.




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[*] posted on 1-4-2019 at 07:43


My opinion is, using instead all metal parts hard wood. For example from the Beech. And using 2% oil + 2 % PIB as binder....:cool:...LL



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[*] posted on 2-4-2019 at 08:05


Quote: Originally posted by XeonTheMGPony  
Ok I fabricated a simple primary pellet press to demonstrate.

[Edited on 31-3-2019 by XeonTheMGPony]


How does this pellet system work, I am not familiar. maybe a sketch?

[Edited on 2-4-2019 by twelti]

[Edited on 2-4-2019 by twelti]
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[*] posted on 2-4-2019 at 10:38


Because pellet is preesed, create solid one part. This is advantage for next manipulation, inserting to cavity with low danger exces.



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