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twelti
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Quote: Originally posted by wessonsmith  | | Quote: Originally posted by twelti | | How does the HTPB compare to styrene butadiene? I have some of that, from a commercial adhesive product mentioned by Quicksilver in his ETN_
Notes-2006 doc. |
HTPB is very easy to use. Directly mix with your powdered explosive, that's it. It also has a long shelf life when using an antioxidant.
Excellent low-temperature malleability. |
I'm just wondering if it is any better than what i already have. It is <90% styrene butadiene. I have mixed with ETN and it is easy to mix, ends
up like dough, and dries to pencil eraser consistency. Maybe that is one difference, the stuff I have would not remain malleable after 24 hours or
so.
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twelti
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| Quote: Originally posted by wessonsmith | | Quote: Originally posted by twelti | | Quote: Originally posted by wessonsmith | | Quote: Originally posted by twelti | | How does the HTPB compare to styrene butadiene? I have some of that, from a commercial adhesive product mentioned by Quicksilver in his ETN_
Notes-2006 doc. |
HTPB is very easy to use. Directly mix with your powdered explosive, that's it. It also has a long shelf life when using an antioxidant.
Excellent low-temperature malleability. |
I'm just wondering if it is any better than what i already have. It is <90% styrene butadiene. I have mixed with ETN and it is easy to mix, ends
up like dough, and dries to pencil eraser consistency. Maybe that is one difference, the stuff I have would not remain malleable after 24 hours or
so. |
I guess it just depends on your use. HTPB is an industry-standard. Used in plastic explosives and rocket motors. |
... as is styrene butadiene, Semtex for example is around 10% SB.
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wessonsmith
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Why I use HTPB
Solventless mixing
Electrical insulation properties
High solids loading
Hydrolytically stable
Hydrophobicity
Low glass transition temperature
Low moisture permeability
Low temperature flexibility
Resistance to aqueous acids and bases
Long shelf life(with antioxidant added)
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wessonsmith
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Electric Match Version of my Sintered Detonator
Below is a link to an electric match version of my Sintered detonator. I am using a modified version of the lead block test by using a jacketed 45acp
bullet and a 50 Beowulf cartridge. I chose this method due to the high precision of the 45acp bullets and brass cartridges, which provide a high
degree of uniformity between tests. It also makes for a very inexpensive testing setup.
The baseline detonator contains only Sintered comp(1.15g). The full power #8 detonator contains 600mg Sintered comp + 100mg NHN + 900mg melt-cast
ETN(1.6g total)
The copper jacket surrounding the lead allows for robust detonator testing since the copper jacket adds structural support. The Brass cartridge
provides additional support and a uniformed container to hold the detonator and bullet.
As a reminder, the contents of the detonators have a secondary-like sensitivity profile.
Link to the tests.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1d0D9WVLlj-MpjEukyICJDtty6C...
Here is a link to the electric fuse I use.
https://ebay.us/9oTk5a
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twelti
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Can you upload a sketch or something? I'm not sure I understand what you are doing. You are putting a det inside the cartridge, then...?
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wessonsmith
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| Quote: Originally posted by twelti | | Can you upload a sketch or something? I'm not sure I understand what you are doing. You are putting a det inside the cartridge, then...?
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MineMan
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What glue do you use? Where the fuse is at.
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twelti
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OK, I git it.
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wessonsmith
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Gorilla Hot Glue Sticks, Mini Size
https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Sticks-Diameter-Count-Clear/d...
I use it on both sides of the detonator, the base, and the fuse.
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MineMan
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Is gorilla hot glue different than any other glue sticks? I am surprised it is fluid enough to seal between the fuse and cardboard tube... I had that
trouble with BP firecrackers.
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wessonsmith
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| Quote: Originally posted by MineMan | | Is gorilla hot glue different than any other glue sticks? I am surprised it is fluid enough to seal between the fuse and cardboard tube... I had that
trouble with BP firecrackers. |
Here are the specs on Gorilla Glue. One of the highlights is gap filling.
https://www.gorillatough.com/product/gorilla-hot-glue-sticks...
I have found Gorilla hot glue to give superior hold to others I have used. Also, important to use a High Temp glue gun. I am using a very
inexpensive high temp glue gun from Walmart with a fine nozzle.
https://www.adhesivetech.com/create/adtech-drip-less-glue-gu...
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MineMan
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Ok. High temp might be fine for your comp... but other ones like flash or BP make me nervous
Nonetheless. Fine job! That’s like art work.
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wessonsmith
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| Quote: Originally posted by MineMan | Ok. High temp might be fine for your comp... but other ones like flash or BP make me nervous
Nonetheless. Fine job! That’s like art work. |
Since the hot glue guns and glue sticks are inexpensive, I would do some testing on your comp. Try placing the Glue gun's tip directly into a small
amount of each. That is what I did. I let the mini-glue gun heat up for 5min to insure the absolute hottest it could get and then put the tip into
the comp for 60-sec. Keep in mind that the tip never touches my comp when sealing the tube. I just did it for a safety check.
The main concern for me was the fuse. The tip can accidentally touch the fuse, so I did a 60-sec test on that as well. The hootest the melted
mini-hot glue gets is 115°C, way below the ignition temps of Black Powder and Flash Powder.
Here are some specs.
Gorilla Mini-Hot Glue:
Softening Point : 88 °C (190 °F)
Flash Point : >232 °C (> 450 °F)
So you know that the mini-hot glue gun tip temp is way below 232 °C. I keep emphasizing MINI. The mini-hot glue guns aren't as hot as the full
size. No need for expensive full-size glue guns.
Here is what I am using.
Mini-hot glue gun
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003W0IFXY?tag=amz-mkt-chr-us-20&a...
Gorilla mini-hot glue sticks:
https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Sticks-Diameter-Count-Clear/d...
[Edited on 14-8-2019 by wessonsmith]
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MineMan
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Ok. Since it was a high temp glue gun I expected 250C. Glad you cleared this up. This is great!
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wessonsmith
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Moment of truth. Paper detonator !
The detonator overlayed to show size comparison.
Don't try this with anything other than paper.
[Edited on 30-8-2019 by wessonsmith]
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Herr Haber
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| Quote: Originally posted by wessonsmith |
The baseline detonator contains only Sintered comp(1.15g). The full power #8 detonator contains 600mg Sintered comp + 100mg NHN + 900mg melt-cast
ETN(1.6g total)
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Why so much ?
I mean... that's both a detonator and a booster.
I havent tried (yet... but with all your teasing soon) NHN, understood from the litterature that you shared that more is needed compared to other
primaries but why then add another 100mg on top of your sintered composition (that seems to be enough) and then another 900mg ETN ?
I'm certain you have a logic for such a complicated train.
The spirit of adventure was upon me. Having nitric acid and copper, I had only to learn what the words 'act upon' meant. - Ira Remsen
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wessonsmith
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| Quote: Originally posted by Herr Haber |
Why so much ?
I mean... that's both a detonator and a booster.
I havent tried (yet... but with all your teasing soon) NHN, understood from the litterature that you shared that more is needed compared to other
primaries but why then add another 100mg on top of your sintered composition (that seems to be enough) and then another 900mg ETN ?
I'm certain you have a logic for such a complicated train. |
To be clear, if you use a secondary other than melt-cast ETN you don't need the extra NHN. It would be, for example, PETN & 600mg of Sintered
comp. The Sintered comp by its self is indeed powerful but in the famous words of Nigel Tufnel from Spinal Tap (these go to 11).
The reason for the extra NHN, when using melt-cast ETN as your secondary, is because the melt-cast ETN remelts when you apply heat to create the
Sintered comp. The newly melted ETN then travels up the Sintered comp, causing it to become saturated with ETN. The overly saturated Sintered comp
will fail to ignite. The NHN acts as a buffer between the melt-cast ETN and the Sintered comp, preventing the melt-cast ETN from moving up the column.
If you like it simpler then yes, just using the Sintered comp will work. If you want a more powerful firecracker/detonator which goes to 11, then
adding a powerful secondary is the way to go.
It is essential to remember what has been accomplished here. We are using a paper tube, stuffed with secondary like explosives,
detonating with a simple fuse/electric match head.
[Edited on 30-8-2019 by wessonsmith]
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Herr Haber
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Very clear. Thank you for the explanations.
I do appreciate what you accomplished 
The spirit of adventure was upon me. Having nitric acid and copper, I had only to learn what the words 'act upon' meant. - Ira Remsen
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Fantasma4500
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i have used low-melting rocket candy tubes with 500mg booster compound with a melting range of around 60*C for years. one guy i talked to was able to
get it off with just 2mm visco. i failed with 3mm visco. supposedly star composition fuse like "flying fish" fuse may work, burns quite slow and hot.
maybe too big gap between target compound and heat source. i never tested it.
i poured the rocket candy into straw segments of about 50mm, mcdonalds straws, 8mm diamter? as it had low melting point due to being... 65-25-10 KNO3
Sucrose Syrup (ahorn syrup) it allowed me to put it into these straws, where regular rocket candy would ruin the straw
once ignited the composition would burn from the end ignited, and flame would be mainly directed in ignition direction, but the flames would also
shoot through the side of the straw, effectively impacting the compound, it was rolled in maybe half an A4 page worth of aluminium foil, it was rolled
up in 15mm segments, maybe 500mg spread out over 10 folds, this strip was then crimped in ends and rolled tightly around the straws
for ensuring ignition of the RC i pressed a hole into the hardened RC, and the end of the straw had 5mm in the top where there was no RC, this space
was used to ensure the 2mm visco fuse would connect and successfully ignite the RC
the 2mm visco was lead into the hole of the RC, and a 1:1 mixture of golden powder : rocket candy, both granulated was added, then it was all held in
place with some hot glue. golden powder was used because it ignites very easily
rocket candy becomes hygroscopic if its heated so much that the sugar starts to brown. another benifit of using syrup rocket candy
now this will leave you with a exciting hissing noise before the shockwave hits, you may entirely eliminate this by using a thermite like flash
composition, i would opt for a very slow flashpowder, maybe even a flare composition, 80 mesh magnesium? i did try setting this compound off in a
metal pipe one time with KClO4-MgAl but it had absolutely no success. RC straw doesnt yield much sparks, which is great if you wanna avoid simply
burning off what youre trying to set off, this is especially important if you wanna set off pure NC
i think this device could work with CuO-Mg, but then were again heading towards sensitive initiation, maybe iron oxide thermite with very fine Al
would work? unsure how sensitive Fe2O3-MgAl is, but having just a bit of Mg in there for heat and speed would be ideal.
NaClO3-Si powder also burns very hot, but is difficult to ignite. it would surely work well if all the heat could be directed into the heat sensitive
compound, i dont recall much success with KClO3-Si in terms of ignition
aluminium foil is good enough for NASA, so i believe it would also work for this application. in one way it insulates from the heat escaping and yet
it carries it away. regardless when i put this much care into these devices i never had a failure. my first go was with simply a couple sparklers and
this compound wrapped around it. some times ive observed a loud pop or crack before the whole thing going off so theres definitely room for
improvement.
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