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Author: Subject: Heating mantle blew up WTF!!!!!
draculic acid69
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[*] posted on 23-7-2019 at 01:38


Sulaiman the thyristor isn't in the mantle it's just suggested as a replacement to the board that's currently there.

Markx: so you are pretty sure that the 2000w thyristor would almost certainly SAFELY handle going between the mains and the nichrome element without anything going wrong as long as I don't turn it up to max and "glass it" ie: melt the fiber mat or should I get a 1000w one to be on the safe side?

And just a question to anyone who knows about this: how big of a fuse and what type should I wire in? I was told a 5A would be ample for my 400w 240v mantle.i just don't know if theres like a special thermal type used for this sort of thing that's different to a normal inline one you use on your car.
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XeonTheMGPony
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[*] posted on 23-7-2019 at 04:53


Quote: Originally posted by draculic acid69  
Sulaiman the thyristor isn't in the mantle it's just suggested as a replacement to the board that's currently there.

Markx: so you are pretty sure that the 2000w thyristor would almost certainly SAFELY handle going between the mains and the nichrome element without anything going wrong as long as I don't turn it up to max and "glass it" ie: melt the fiber mat or should I get a 1000w one to be on the safe side?

And just a question to anyone who knows about this: how big of a fuse and what type should I wire in? I was told a 5A would be ample for my 400w 240v mantle.i just don't know if theres like a special thermal type used for this sort of thing that's different to a normal inline one you use on your car.


Standard calculation for a fuse is 135% max of the load for resistive load I'd go for 125%.

Soooo: Mantle watts divided by mains voltage = A*1.25 = Fuse ampacity

Dimmer should be 2 times Mantles max watts for long lasting unit that will run cool.

Is it a brushed DC motor or is it an ECM 3phase style motor.

I'd just fix the board personally for simplicity, add a panel mount fuse.
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draculic acid69
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[*] posted on 1-8-2019 at 03:37


Ok I've got a 2000w thyristor on the way I'm thinking I should just rip the guts(wiring) out of the mantle and use a 12vmotor controller for the stirrer.im still wondering if I should try and get a 1000w one just to be on the safer side
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[*] posted on 1-8-2019 at 04:02


Do you know what type of motor is in it now? That's where I'd start!
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draculic acid69
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[*] posted on 1-8-2019 at 05:57


It's a d.c. motor, not an issue it's handled.its the nichrome element I'm worried about.the mantle is rated at 400w and the thyristor is 2000w and it's not a precise instrument.i really think going down to a 1000w is the sane move.i just can't trust using that little dial to not overheat stuff.even if I only turn it to 1/3rd of the way on that's the max limit for the mantle and in that third I've got to have a whole dials worth of settings and that mm between low and medium is not fine enough for what I need I realize now.
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wg48temp9
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[*] posted on 1-8-2019 at 06:59


Quote: Originally posted by draculic acid69  
It's a d.c. motor, not an issue it's handled.its the nichrome element I'm worried about.the mantle is rated at 400w and the thyristor is 2000w and it's not a precise instrument.i really think going down to a 1000w is the sane move.i just can't trust using that little dial to not overheat stuff.even if I only turn it to 1/3rd of the way on that's the max limit for the mantle and in that third I've got to have a whole dials worth of settings and that mm between low and medium is not fine enough for what I need I realize now.


I assume by thyristor your referring to a phase angle controller using a thyristor. If that is the case the control knob adjusts the power from almost 100% (400W) to about 10%-0% (40W-0W)of the power rating of the mantel.

The 2,000W is the maximum wattage of the load that can be connected to the controller and not have it over heat or have a short operating life.
The stated maximum wattage is frequently optimistic hence the suggested the safety margin.

The controllers also have a minium load rating but that is probably much smaller than 400W





I am wg48 but not on my usual pc hence the temp handle.
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draculic acid69
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[*] posted on 1-8-2019 at 08:01


By thyristor I mean like the link earlier in the post.2000w Pwm thyristor motor control thing.apparently good for controlling hotplates.much cheaper than variacs
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draculic acid69
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[*] posted on 1-8-2019 at 08:06


Even with a safety margin 2000w seems possibly damaging to the mantle.1000w seems like a safer bet.
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Sulaiman
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[*] posted on 1-8-2019 at 09:41


Quote: Originally posted by draculic acid69  
Even with a safety margin 2000w seems possibly damaging to the mantle.1000w seems like a safer bet.


The controllers do not increase the line voltage so the mantle cannot draw more current / consume more power than if connected directly to the a.c. source.

The wattage rating of the controller is an indication of the maximum load that it can handle.
(usually it is the a.c. voltage multiplied by the triac maximum current)


e.g. I use a '4000W' 220V controller for my 380W heating mantle,
another member uses a '10000W' controller.
The supplied heatsinks are, in my opinion, too small for continuous operation at full rated load, which is why most people recommend using an over-rated controller.
I did not add a fuse as UK plugs have an inbuilt fuse.




CAUTION : Hobby Chemist, not Professional or even Amateur
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draculic acid69
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[*] posted on 2-8-2019 at 20:22


Quote: Originally posted by Sulaiman  
Quote: Originally posted by draculic acid69  
Even with a safety margin 2000w seems possibly damaging to the mantle.1000w seems like a safer bet.


The controllers do not increase the line voltage so the mantle cannot draw more current / consume more power than if connected directly to the a.c. source.

The wattage rating of the controller is an indication of the maximum load that it can handle.
(usually it is the a.c. voltage multiplied by the triac maximum current)


e.g. I use a '4000W' 220V controller for my 380W heating mantle,
another member uses a '10000W' controller.
The supplied heatsinks are, in my opinion, too small for continuous operation at full rated load, which is why most people recommend using an over-rated controller.
I did not add a fuse as UK plugs have an inbuilt fuse.[/rquote

Is the 380w mantle a 1litre? And how fine is the control using one of these controllers?
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Sulaiman
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[*] posted on 2-8-2019 at 21:24


380W is my diy 500ml heating mantle.
The dimmers have very fine control - as fine as I've ever needed.




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draculic acid69
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[*] posted on 3-8-2019 at 08:08


What kind of dimmer is it?
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Sulaiman
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[*] posted on 3-8-2019 at 10:07


search eBay for "4000W" or "10000W"



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draculic acid69
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[*] posted on 3-8-2019 at 17:48


Like this?

s-l225.jpg - 16kB s-l400.jpg - 21kB
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Sulaiman
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[*] posted on 3-8-2019 at 18:05


Yes



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draculic acid69
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[*] posted on 4-8-2019 at 01:06


A decision has been made: screw trying to replace and repair transformers.pwm thyristor circuit control board on the way from China at $3 it's not much of a loss if it's not precise enough. an old 12v500ma power pack will power a motor control board all of which will be mounted (they are small enough I believe) in the mantle if I can detach the pots and wire them so they can be mounted in the same holes as the old ones.
Mantle guts on the left and blank canvas on the right.
IMG_20190804_182858.jpg - 476kB

[Edited on 4-8-2019 by draculic acid69]

IMG_20190804_182924.jpg - 468kB
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XeonTheMGPony
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[*] posted on 4-8-2019 at 04:28


that is a tiny motor
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draculic acid69
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[*] posted on 4-8-2019 at 05:44


Why would it be any bigger?
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JoeyJoystick
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[*] posted on 4-8-2019 at 06:24


Quote: Originally posted by Herr Haber  
Quote: Originally posted by wg48temp9  
Of cause this is only applicable if the probability of a single failure is low as the probability of two simultaneous low probability failures occurring together is very low.


Unless you are just about to replace a failed HDD from a Raid array.
Feeling good an cozy and then... :mad: second one fails !

I might take you up on your offer Sulaiman :)


I am new here and normally spend my time reading. However, I have to reply to this.

I was on the way from the Hotel in Hanoi to the airport in, yes Hanoi as well. I got into a car accident. Not a biggy, I wait and get a new taxi. And guess what, I got in an other car accident. By now I know I have missed my flight, so I just sit back and wait in the taxi. And while I am sitting there, the 2 drivers arguing outside on the side of the road, right in front of me an other accident on the middle of the intersection. What are the odds....


Joey
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draculic acid69
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[*] posted on 4-8-2019 at 17:58


Yeah that's one in a million.hows the food there? I'm imagining lots of lemongrass and coconut cream.
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[*] posted on 7-8-2019 at 01:40


Quote: Originally posted by draculic acid69  
Yeah that's one in a million.hows the food there? I'm imagining lots of lemongrass and coconut cream.


I live in Thailand and one of the best things in Thailand is the food I think. Tends to be quite spicy. Also, Thais eat much more meat and since I am not crazy about veggies I am a happy bunny. And this is why I did not like the food in Vietnam. Too many vegetables and no spices which makes the food pretty much tasteless. Having said that, in central Vietnam, the food is definitely more spicy than in both the north and the south, but still a lot of veggies and little meat. I did find some great seafood restaurants though! And at prices that are hard to believe. I remember on 1 occasion I took 3 customers to the beach to eat seafood. We ate crab, prawns, fish soup, Crayfish and clamps + a box of warm Heineken. Cooled to drinking temperature in 5 minutes by submerging the bottle in ice and throwing a whole bag of salt over it. (Works like a charm!) I clearly remember this because I broke a nut cracker on the crab legs... All this for about 100USD. (yes only one hundred!) Location was Chu Lai Airport, well the beach next to it anyway. This must have been late 2009 or early 2010. During the 4 years I was there I pretty much travelled between north, south and central Vietnam on a weekly basis.

Anyways, it's all a matter of taste I guess. I hear many people tell me that they love the food in Vietnam. I'm just not one of them. Better to go there yourself and find out for yourself.

Not sure if these kind of postings are appreciated on this forum though. In that case my apologies and I won't do it again.


Joey
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draculic acid69
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[*] posted on 2-9-2019 at 02:02


Ok everything has arrived.thyristor on the left was purchased first but I realized it's flat panel wouldn't fit flush against the curved surface of the mantle and I wanted it all internally mounted in the middle is a motor control governor with the pot on a long enough cord that I can put the pots where the old ones were.on the right is the 2nd thyristor circuit purchased 2wks after the first one from a different company than the first one yet they all turned up on the same day in the same bag.

Screenshot_20190902-200041.png - 278kB

So the thyristor and motor control will be mounted inside somehow then a fuse will be installed everything soldered and then we'll see how it goes.

[Edited on 2-9-2019 by draculic acid69]

[Edited on 2-9-2019 by draculic acid69]

Screenshot_20190902-201805.png - 249kBScreenshot_20190902-201805.png - 249kB
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draculic acid69
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[*] posted on 3-9-2019 at 08:01


Does anyone know if this would be a brushless motor or not? It's not magnetic on the outside like some other DC motors I've had.im guessing that it would be brushless so as not to cause sparks.the motor control governor I bought doesn't work for brushless motors I think.a lot of motor control governors don't work with brushless motors.pretty sure the one I got is defective I plugged it in without the potentiometer cord plugged in and the on led came on but when the pot cord is plugged in it goes out like something has shorted out.even without the potentiometer cord plugged in it still wouldn't work.

[Edited on 3-9-2019 by draculic acid69]

Screenshot_20190904-014642.png - 191kB
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wg48temp9
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[*] posted on 3-9-2019 at 11:13


From what I remember your motor was driven by a low voltage probably not more than 24V. If that is the case you can check the motor by connecting it to a 6V battery. With a brushed motor its shaft turn continuously while a brush-less motor (no built in drive electronics) may turn a fraction of a turn and then you should be able to feel some resistance if you try to turn the shaft by hand.

The end of your motor looks similar to a brush-less motor I dismantled.
It was a brush-less motor but with built in driver electronics. Such motors will turn continuously on a battery but only when connected with the correct polarity. Note you may damage the electronics of such a motor by powering it from the wrong polarity and it may not work correctly with your controller.

You could also check the motor by using it as a generator and spin the shaft by hand or a with an electric drill but that is more involved.

I hope you purchased a low voltage motor controller and not mains powered one.




I am wg48 but not on my usual pc hence the temp handle.
Thank goodness for Fleming and the fungi.
Old codger' lives matters, wear a mask and help save them.
Be aware of demagoguery, keep your frontal lobes fully engaged.
I don't know who invented mRNA vaccines but they should get a fancy medal and I hope they made a shed load of money from it.
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[*] posted on 4-9-2019 at 00:16


It definitely looks like a brushless motor. You could try to peek into the venthole at the backside of the motor. If there is a circuit board visible underneath then it usually signals that the drive electronics are built into the unit.
If they are functional, the motor should turn by connecting it to a DC source, but mind the polarity as already mentioned.

I would not deem the motor controller defective yet....they tend to be rather foolproof. At least I have not encountered a faulty one yet. You could check the controllers functionality with another brushed dc motor.




Exact science is a figment of imagination.......
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