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Author: Subject: Tutorial:the poor man MMO anode
plante1999
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[*] posted on 15-2-2011 at 13:49


could you please say wat you use for source of tin wath you think is wrong etc?

thanks!
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otonel
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[*] posted on 17-2-2011 at 13:26


I use tin solder for electric circuits and it don`t react with HCl
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plante1999
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[*] posted on 17-2-2011 at 13:52


go to the plumber section of the hardware store and buy 50/50 tin/antimony solder , it should work , also some heating should help.
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Random
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[*] posted on 18-2-2011 at 11:25


Maybe it doesn't react that you see because the bubbles of hydrogen are too small and evolving too slow. Just cut it into the smallest pieces as you can and then put it into HCl, it will dissolve after some time.
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PolarSmokes
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[*] posted on 19-2-2011 at 04:43
jussssssssstttttt wondering


Has anyone else got this to work? Just curious =)
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plante1999
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[*] posted on 19-2-2011 at 05:55


yes , my.
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PolarSmokes
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[*] posted on 19-2-2011 at 21:35


Could you please measure the resistance of your electrode?
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otonel
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[*] posted on 20-2-2011 at 01:35


I make that reaction using sulfide of tin make by melting together tin solder and the black residue was treated with HCl.
Then add H2SO4 and I filtered and used the resulting liquid.
But unfortunately my first MMO anode was failure because when I make electrolysis with 1,5V I observe a porous surface with small hole.
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plante1999
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[*] posted on 20-2-2011 at 04:11


does you electrolise a sulfuric acid solution?
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otonel
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[*] posted on 20-2-2011 at 08:11


Yes a 10% sulfuric acid solution with tap water
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plante1999
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[*] posted on 20-2-2011 at 08:15


omg tap water you need to use distill water , tap contain chlorine ion witch corrod aluminium.
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ElectroWin
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[*] posted on 5-3-2011 at 09:50


Because the anode turns out black, is it possible that the Aluminum/Tin/Antimony oxides are being reduced with the torch through carbon monoxide?
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plante1999
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[*] posted on 5-3-2011 at 10:01


i facts it is black because th so small particule of oxide.



I never asked for this.
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ElectroWin
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[*] posted on 5-3-2011 at 14:12


okay, so that likely would be the black, α-SnO, which has electronic band gap between 2.5eV and 3eV?

Also, is it verified now that antimony is also required in this process? I have Sn/Pb solder, but no access to Sb.
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plante1999
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[*] posted on 5-3-2011 at 15:49


yes it is , i sertify it to you , you are sure that your hardware shop doesnt have 50/50 sn/sb , on the pakage it is wrigthed : Contain lead. but this is false , if you read the small script it will say 50/50 antimony / tin .



I never asked for this.
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gregxy
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[*] posted on 5-3-2011 at 18:02


There are dozens of types of solder.
From Wikipedia, this sounds like the correct one
95% tin 5% Antimony:

Sb5, ASTM95TA, Indalloy 133. The US plumbing industry standard. It displays good resistance to thermal fatigue and good shear strength. Forms coarse dendrites of tin-rich solid solution with SbSn intermetallic dispersed between. Very high room-temperature ductility. Creeps via viscous glide of dislocations by pipe diffusion. More creep-resistant than SnAg3.5. Antimony can be toxic. Used for sealing chip packagings, attaching I/O pins to ceramic substrates, and die attachment; a possible lower-temperature replacement of AuSn.[7] High strength and bright finish. Use in air conditioning, refrigeration, some food containers, and high-temperature applications.[16] Good wettability, good long-term shear strength at 100 °C. Suitable for potable water systems. Used for stained glass, plumbing, and radiator repairs.

Did anyone find out if this electrode can make ClO4?
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ElectroWin
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[*] posted on 5-3-2011 at 20:58


I found a company that makes 95/5 Sn/Sb but not the 50/50 kind.

What brand, product do you recommend?
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ElectroWin
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[*] posted on 6-3-2011 at 07:16


in another post, about antimony doped tin on titanium, on 21-7-2007
Rosco Bodine writes:
The black color with the antimony doping might be a bimetal oxide or oxychloride of titanium and antimony, and that might be forming an unidentified diffusion layer
[...].

so i guess, since this seems to happen on aluminum as well, it is not the titanium.
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food
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[*] posted on 18-3-2011 at 08:17


Quote: Originally posted by pyromaniac  
nahh, I like electrochemistry mostly. I bought some Roebic drain cleaner for the sulfuric acid and I do not know to concentration.


This fellow has a couple of quite good videos on evaluating sulfuric acid.
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quest
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[*] posted on 28-5-2011 at 13:31


Some one did any new experiments with this anode? it's sound like a very promise anode for "poor man".
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rabidmonkey
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[*] posted on 8-6-2011 at 17:23


I have a ton of carbon electrodes laying about, would it work if i substituted the aluminum pipe for a carbon rod?
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White Yeti
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[*] posted on 27-7-2011 at 17:46


This is unrelated to tin/ antimony and aluminium oxides, but has anyone experimented with vanadium and nickel oxides? A solid coat of vanadium pentoxide can be deposited on the activated layer of a titanium electrode when an ammonium metavanadate solution is applied and heated to decomposition temperature.

I've always wanted to experiment with nickel oxide and possibly try to deposit a solid amorphous layer of nickel oxide onto the surface of a titanium electrode. However, I cannot think of any salts of nickel that can be dissolved in water and then decomposed onto the surface of a titanium electrode. Alternatively, is there a way to deposit nickel oxide electrolytically?

Any ideas?
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plante1999
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[*] posted on 3-8-2011 at 18:06


Ok i will assume my failure , after 3-4 week , the anode was completly destroyed with production of grey mud. in fact after 20 day huge amount of gray mess was produce.



I never asked for this.
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cyanureeves
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[*] posted on 3-8-2011 at 18:38


plante which failure? after 3-4 weeks how much chlorate did you produce?how can an anode that lasts almost a month be considered a failure? i'm still peeling off 6volt batteries for electrodes and i got a heap of black mud. but the way i look at it is i got dirty chlorate instead of potassium chloride just sitting in a bag just being potassium chloride.i just unplugged my chlorate cell after 2 weeks of zapping left over bleach from hydrazine sulfate synth. now i got BLEACH and black mud but no chlorate. i'm gonna use it to kill a stubborn old hackberry tree in the alley. i'm still gonna buy tin/antimony solder this weekend and more muriate of potash.

[Edited on 4-8-2011 by cyanureeves]
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White Yeti
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[*] posted on 4-8-2011 at 05:59


Cyanureeves, He's probably calling it a failure because it isn't a true MMO anode. A true MMO can survive over 50 cycles in a chlorate cell.
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