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Author: Subject: Hotplates!
grndpndr
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[*] posted on 14-5-2012 at 11:10


Ill try to Be Sure I dont use 'wet' absorbent litter as well!
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Hexavalent
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[*] posted on 14-5-2012 at 12:22


I like your idea grndpndr, but I can only attest to what the others have said.

Personally, I would like to report experimental success with the air bath technique, and I hope to acquire some copper BBs soon to try that technique.


@grndpndr - On a side note, not to sound moderator-ish, if you need to add something to what you've said, then please use the edit feature when possible and practical. Posting multiple times sequentially only to add further detail again and again only serves to bolster your post count.




"Success is going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm." Winston Churchill
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Mailinmypocket
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[*] posted on 26-7-2014 at 09:52


Quote: Originally posted by Fossil  
Vegetable oil also works decently for oil baths, although if you have some money to spend, get these. http://www.labarmor.com/lab-armor-beads-for-lab-water-baths/

I have some and love them, super convenient, no need for cleaning your glassware of oil, and they go over 500C if i recall correctly. Really a great investment if you are able to shell out the money.


Reviving this old thread because labarmour gives a free sample of lab bath beads. I had to pay 10$ for a sample because I am not in the USA but still worth it! The sample is a nice size for doing small scale stuff, they work nicely.
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Texium
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[*] posted on 28-7-2014 at 07:09


Quote: Originally posted by Rich_Insane  
Hey guys. So I've decided to get a new hotplate. I'm a bit confused on what I should get. I can't afford those really nice mag stir/lab hotplates, so I've settled on this: Aroma Hotplate

Is it a good decision? Are there similarly priced options?
Haha, that's the exact hotplate I have. It kinda sucks, but it does the job. Heating is erratic and uncontrollable though. It seems that the low setting will get just as hot as the high setting, it just takes a whole lot longer to get there.



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gregxy
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[*] posted on 28-7-2014 at 09:58


One thing to check is if the thermostat is electronic or electro-mechanical. Electro-mechanical meaning there is a switch that turns on and off when it reaches temperature.
Such a switch could ignite flammable vapors.
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MrHomeScientist
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[*] posted on 28-7-2014 at 11:18


Quote: Originally posted by Mailinmypocket  
Reviving this old thread because labarmour gives a free sample of lab bath beads. I had to pay 10$ for a sample because I am not in the USA but still worth it! The sample is a nice size for doing small scale stuff, they work nicely.


Looking at their free sample page, though, it states "This offer is only available for shipment to U.S commercial addresses." That limitation would put this offer outside the grasp of most members here. Does that not also apply to international orders?
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Loptr
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[*] posted on 28-7-2014 at 11:44


Quote: Originally posted by Mailinmypocket  
Quote: Originally posted by Fossil  
Vegetable oil also works decently for oil baths, although if you have some money to spend, get these. http://www.labarmor.com/lab-armor-beads-for-lab-water-baths/

I have some and love them, super convenient, no need for cleaning your glassware of oil, and they go over 500C if i recall correctly. Really a great investment if you are able to shell out the money.


Reviving this old thread because labarmour gives a free sample of lab bath beads. I had to pay 10$ for a sample because I am not in the USA but still worth it! The sample is a nice size for doing small scale stuff, they work nicely.


I just used my work's office address with it addressed to me.
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Mailinmypocket
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[*] posted on 28-7-2014 at 13:07


I used my home address and bullshitted a company name. Worked. I don't think they run this through a system like they do chemical orders. Just invent a name and go with it. It's metal beads afterall, no harm there.

[Edited on 28-7-2014 by Mailinmypocket]
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Dr.Arz
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[*] posted on 1-11-2014 at 07:24


Im thinking now what bath material I will use. Paraffin wax is cheap and it has good thermal capacity and it's supposed to be stable at high temperatures. I will need heating bath with 130C capacity at normal but with one exception that needs to go up to 180C.

Sand baths are known to kill hotplates because they act as insulators so it is not an option.

What could be best:

- paraffin wax
- paraffin oil (whats the difference actually?)
- silicon oil
- 5.1 brake fluid
- steel shot
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DrMario
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[*] posted on 1-11-2014 at 07:35


Quote: Originally posted by Dr.Arz  

- paraffin wax
- paraffin oil (whats the difference actually?)

Average number of carbon atoms in aliphatic molecules. Obviously, oil has shorter aliphatic chains than wax.

Sometimes it's clearer when you call paraffin oil as "mineral oil". But then some call it petroleum ether and things are all f###ed up again.
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[*] posted on 1-11-2014 at 07:42


Maybe I'm going to say something outrageous, but isn't Galinstan the ideal bath liquid - apart from the very high price? It ha a sub-zero melting point, a boiling point of 1300C, very high thermal conductivity and a very low vapour pressure.

What's not to like (apart from the high price, as mentioned)?
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Dr.Arz
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[*] posted on 1-11-2014 at 08:16


Am I getting pissed off again, or am I just expecting too much from my hotplate? I heated up at full power about 500ml of water in a beaker to test it out and never got it boiling, hottest it got from about half an hour is 85C. Meanwhile I got bored and put up my gas cartridge range heater with half a liter of water and it came up from RT to boil under 5 minutes. Hotplate is rated at 500W and the gas heater is approx 2kw.

If these plates are so shitty I've got to get the overhead vac stirrer going asap...
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Dr.Bob
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[*] posted on 1-11-2014 at 11:12


500 watts is not a lot. The Corning stirring hotplates PC-320 are 575 watt, and that is just enough to do some real heating, but they take a while to heat up. I think if you want to heat water to boiling, you will need at least 1000 watts of heating power. Some of the larger hotplates do that. But few labs boil water in a beaker, so the basic hotplates are mostly designed for heating smaller organic reactions, which takes less energy than boiling water.

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Dr.Arz
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[*] posted on 1-11-2014 at 12:23


I need to do distillations (mostly sub 100C boiling solvents in ntp) and then vacuuming with reagents from 100 to nearly 300C. In vacuum stirring or bleeding is absolutely necessary otherwise it will bump and puke all up. I bougth new plate to do this but it seems too unpowerful. Some distillations may be much larger in volume so it seems i need my gas heater after all.
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Argentum
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[*] posted on 7-6-2015 at 13:58


Short question, which doesn't deserves a separate thread. I need some help with choosing a hotplate stirrer.
I've got two choices: Bante ms400, 400º and 2l of stirring capacity, its a good choice if you look at the price, but I couldn't find any "review", just one video on YouTube which promotes it and another one which says is a piece of s...
The other choice is a Numak (the seller wouldn't tell me the model) which can reach up to 300º and stir 10l. I couldn't found any information on the iInternet unfortunately, not even the brand!
Does anybody have any experience with these brands?
Oh, this are the only two hotplates I can buy with my budget, and I can't bring nothing from other countries because I live in the nether regions of the underworld




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