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fvcked
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[*] posted on 28-5-2004 at 01:28


No thank you, axehandle, that reminds me of my sulfuric acid bottle, yummy :P. Since we are talking about various alcohol related things: has anyone ever taken tea bags and coffee tea bag things and used that to flavor your brew? I did that the other night and could taste the burning, but I did notice it was still a relatively high content alcohol, since I later was falling all over the place.


Oh and does the start new topic and the reply button have to be that close? I almost started two new topics trying to get this post in here lol.
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[*] posted on 28-5-2004 at 08:13


Hasselt Koffie is a liquor made with coffee and it taste good but I guess it is only a strong coffee syrup enriched by freezing of water and mixed with alcool.

Although I have tasted a Belgian speciality made with lemon thee that was not bad at all.

In the past some old beers were "parfumated" with special thee and herbs/spices that gave resistance to microorganism but also specific taste.

Negrita Cacao Rhum is also a special kind of alcool/chocolate mix.


But all those are eudipian complex coming back ... with mother Liquor ...
;);););););):P:P:P:P:P:P

[eudipian]x[complex]y.z[Mother LIQUOR]

Ohh suggar I LUV U

******************************
Not to annoy you Axehandle but it is hard to get 20 L ethanol from 30*3L in one week....because:
1°) Your batches must have the time to fermentate (and one week is a good delay to get a "good" yield based on the suggar involved.)
2°)If you don't use porto yeast wich can stay alive until 18% alcohol; then most likely your alcohol % will be between 3 and 12%...and so no mather the way you work it it is difficult to get that much alcohol 98% from this.
3°)To get the highest yield, you need to push distillation and collect all what distills between 72 and 95°C then your exhausted mother liquor will be almost free of alcohol...but your distillated alcohol must be rectified and enriched because it will hold at least 40% water and display a bad taste due to queue distillation products and head...wich must be separated....then and only then you get your final 96% alcohol (98 is only reached with a very long distillation collumn setup or by a further distillation.
4°)If you push distillation to fast then you will get more likely bad burned taste and a lot more water...you distillation setup might also overflow.
5°)Cooling must follow the flow of hot 78°C alcohol; and believe me it uses a lot of tap water to get your alcohol well below 60°C (ideal is at 20°C or less).Ice is a solution but you will need a lot so preparation will take time.
6°)Heating 90L of water from 0 to refluxing takes time especially if you can't overburn it.
7°)Distillation takes time depending on the effective section of your distillation collumn, the amount of theorical plateau (lenght) (the longer the slowest but the best the separation).
To give you an idea:
For me to distill 50L with 10L flasks it took 4 days and a final day for purification (excluded fermentation (2 weeks) thus)....with a 60L beertank (inox) I could do it a little faster since I had no manipulations and transvasements to do-one shot distillation was achieved in two days and an extra day for purification...

Thus what you plan is physically and chemically impossible and not to say...SAFETY INADVISABLE...
Distillation gave a lot of ethanol vapours and it is a work of constant attention...to regulate temperature, reflux, cooling, changing receiving flasks...TASTING :P...and so after a few days without sleep...alcohol smell and ingested helping....with all the burned gases...SLEepy fellow may awake with a FIRE OR BOOM .




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[*] posted on 28-5-2004 at 08:47


Quote:

No thank you, axehandle, that reminds me of my sulfuric acid bottle, yummy . Since we are talking about various alcohol related things: has anyone ever taken tea bags and coffee tea bag things and used that to flavor your brew? I did that the other night and could taste the burning, but I did notice it was still a relatively high content alcohol, since I later was falling all over the place.

No, but it's a good idea. I'm gonna try it.

PHILOU --- not picking apart your response, I'll just say: It was a joke. I don't drink 20 liters of 98% ethanol/week. Hardly ever anyway, more like 8.......
Your points are valid, though....


[Edited on 2004-5-28 by axehandle]




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smile.gif posted on 28-5-2004 at 09:24


I was speaking of experience of course...and this forum is also a mather of sharing experience...

So no problemo.

But stil to have 20 L pilot plant for ethanol is a good idea...here in Belgium drinkable alcool is 900% taxes...And even the simple personnal distillation is lucrative since you spear at least 100€/$ a year

Yeah so 25€ or 25$ per L while it only cost 2.5 without taxes in the supermarket of the european comissionners....those damned guys earn 3000 to 5000 €/$ per month and pay the alcohol cheaper than us...this might explain things move quite slowly inthere ;);););).

Anyway it is not really a good idea to put "fake" or "joke project" in serious treads...whimsy is there for that .And many people write or say "I have dreamed...." or "Purely therically..." but actually do....yes I know shhhhhhtttttt it's a secret....FBI,MI6, Interpol,CIA,KGB,Men In Black... are watching.....:P;):D:):cool:

If you was to live here you would spare almost 200*55 = 11000 $ at a rate of 8L/week ;)

:cool::cool::cool::cool:




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[*] posted on 28-5-2004 at 10:08


Well, here the alcohol tax is something like 1800%.

Seriously speaking though, I plan to set up 2 30-litre fermentation tanks, and 1 "Fantastic Still"-like device, to be used in a rotating schedule. I'm going to use (I've forgotten its name but it's great, I've used it before) a common genetically manipulated turbo yeast that makes 18..19% mash in 4 days.

So.... flow chart... eeeeh...

Fermenting tank #1 is finished when Still #1 is done from previous batch. FT #1 is then reloaded. When Still #2 is done with the batch from FT #1, FT #2 is done, and fed to Still #1. FT #2 is then reloaded, and FT #1 has about 2 days to go.

Meaning: every 2 days, 5.4 litres of 100% alcohol is ready (theoretical yield). This (considering that the passive still only makes about 40% CH3CH2OH in aq solution) could be fed to a second still. The result, no matter what, will have to be purified by means of activated carbon ofcourse.

The beauty is that the mini-factory only has to be run for periods, since the alcohol can easily be stored in aesthetically pleasing PP tanks.

This seems reasonable.

Or am I missing something really obvious here?




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[*] posted on 13-10-2004 at 16:39
Bragging.


Using:

  • the excellent document "The Spiral Still.pdf" (can be found in the axehandle/ directory on the FTP)
  • a 30 liter PP fermenting bucket
  • a huge sheet of insulating foam plastic
  • 5 meters of 10x0.8mm copper tubing
  • some metal cable fittings
  • the scavenged heating element from a water boiler
  • a thyristor based 0-15A power controller
  • some cable
  • some PVC hose
  • some hose clamps
  • a soldering iron
  • a digital oven thermometer w/ probe

I've made <b>this</b>, and it WORKS:

[Edited on 2004-10-14 by axehandle]

EtOH_still02.jpg - 30kB




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[*] posted on 15-10-2004 at 14:27


There we go.....

Cost of all hardware for the still + yiest and sugar + alcohol content measuring stick for the 1st batch: SEK900

Cost of the 4.5 litres of 50% vodka gotten from the 1st batch if bought legally: SEK1650

Very good, although much was lost in the carbon filter grrrrrrrr.

EDIT1: (SEK10 ~= €1)

EDIT2: (Mandatory joke)

  • Cost of still: SEK900
  • Cost of booze if bought legally: SEK1650
  • Taste of product: prizeless



[Edited on 2004-10-15 by axehandle]




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[*] posted on 16-10-2004 at 18:31
Costs


Axehandle, that's nearly $48 in U.S. currency for a litre of vodka ! No wonder you're making
your own hooch ! We pay $8 - 10 a litre here ! And I thought the U.S. government was
greedy on their booze tax ! BTW, my still is a Destilabs stainless steel still, and you
guessed it - made in Sweden ! In your currency, based on average exchange rate,
that still cost me 1652 SEK, and well worth it ! An excellent example of a Swedish import !
I modified it by replacing the broken glass tubing in the reflux column with 6mm glass
beads. It puts out 190 proof easily as long as I keep the temperature in the reflux
column below 79 C. The thermometer that goes into the top of the reflux column is not
shown. I also modified the water flow through the condenser and reflux column for efficiency.

LONG LIVE SWEDEN !


Picture enclosed:

D-STILL.jpg - 127kB




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[*] posted on 16-10-2004 at 18:47
Follow-up


Sorry for the double-post but in trying to edit my last post it doesn't want to keep the
picture of my pretty still.

Just wanted to say that this reflux still holds 5 gallons.

Ramiel, I never tried the "turbo" yeast. Sounds like the results were very disappointing.
Is that the yeast sold by Gert Strand ? Personally, I like the ALLTECH SUPERSTART -
a great distiller's yeast. I like the LALVIN brands for anything I don't distill.

Everybody, listen to Ramiel - this is 1 very experienced distiller from the posts I've seen.




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[*] posted on 17-10-2004 at 09:24


Hmm, well, yes, hehe --- a stainless machine would obviously be much better but is out of the question for me for 2 reasons: Firstly, I don't know anyone with a TIG welder; and secondly, the water cooling would be audible at nights due to noise in the plumbing system, and I don't really fancy the idea of narrow-minded neighbours alerting the authorities to my... activities...

So for now, I'll settle for my air cooled system. The only real drawback is that it takes lots of time to distill a batch, air cooling really limits the power you can put through... still, approximately 2.25 liters of pure ethanol in 48 hours ain't bad.

I really love my plastic still. Those high-quality metal waterproof cable fitting are holding up much better than I thought they would. I'm attaching a picture of some of them where they're attached through the lid. To the right you can see one of the two leads to the immersion heater, inside a transparent PVC hose. I originally planned on using two immersion heaters but scrapped the idea, hence the extra cable fitting in the middle sealed with a wooden plug (there's another identical one outside the picture). At the bottom left you can see the digital thermometer probe going through that small cable fitting, and at the top left is where the copper cooling spiral enters the vessel.

fittings.jpg - 31kB




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[*] posted on 8-11-2004 at 12:41


Sup guys, haven’t posted in a while, but I do come and check out the forums every now and then, and after seeing this post I had to reply.

I myself have been distilling for just over 3 years (started in high school) and have gotten the personal production of alcohol down to a routine. I’m gonna give you the low down on how I make my shine.

First off, turbo yeast ownz. Except no substitutions. This stuff is care free, I throw 13 pounds of sugar into a bucket add the yeast packet and come back 3 days later. The yeast I use dies at the end of fermentation and settles to the bottom very nicely. I haven't had any problems with turbo yeast, I use gert strand from a distribution company here in the U.S. called brewhaus (around 4 bucks a pack)

I used to have a website with pictures of my still, but I’m currently having a hard time finding a place to host my stuff, you can try here but sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t.

http://tflex.ds4a.com

The still that I use to this day, is the keg still, I love it. I can distill 2 batches at one time (roughly 12 gallons) and I usually get almost 2 gallons of the good stuff. I don’t currently have a power control on the heating element so the reflux ratio is not perfect but I average around 80% consistently. Lol the digital thermometer I use right now is cluster fucked so I’m not really sure what temperature it comes off as, I just use it to tell me when the temperature changes( warning digital thermometers don’t do to well after being dropped in a fermentation bucket). The temperature will stabilize and give a consistent stream of 80% for around 4-5 hours then drop really quick then rise really quick. That lets me know its time to quit. Unfortunately, my still is not perfect, I would rather have 95% , but due to the ease of use and reliability I get already I don’t mind stickin with what I got.

The distillate. Now that I have my keg still the stuff I collect is pretty much uniform, it all has the same taste and strength. With my old still it seemed to taste different every time because I couldn’t control the temp as it came off, not allowing me to differentiate between the heads the body, and the tails.

The taste is of alcohol, not much else. I’ve read online forums saying the distillate of turbo yeast brewed sugar mashes taste bad. This is simply not true. It has no taste and it goes down smooth as hell. I usually mix it 50/50 with root beer (my favorite ).

To tell you the truth I think there is a conspiracy. Commercial alcohols do not even come close to my shine. My stuff has no taste, no side effects, it does not make me go blind, and most importantly it has never given me a hangover. Also my stuff seems to give off a lot better high.

Making your own stuff does save you a lot of money. The total cost of production is 15 bucks for 2 gallons of 80%. This does not however, include the power bill (I don’t pay it) but it would be 1500 watts times 5 hours. Compare this with the 20 bucks a liter of commercial stuff and you can see that the still will pay for itself in a few runs. To tell you the truth though I’m not even old enough to buy alcohol in my country, but I have been making my own for just over 3 years which makes me the youngest master distiller I have come across.

Ok...I think thats bout it....Let me know if you guys have any questions.
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[*] posted on 23-11-2004 at 12:34


I've got a few questions that are partly related to brewing. What factors would affect the rate at which yeast respires? So far, I've thought of:
-temperature
-pH
-concentration of the carbohydrate
-concentration of the surrounding medium
-the type of carbohydrate

Also, can yeast respire aerobically?



[Edited on 23-11-2004 by Harpoon]
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[*] posted on 23-11-2004 at 13:45


There's a vast number of factors. You mentioned several, but also don't forget -

-Aeration (how efficiently you bubble the yeast, and how efficiently you remove the CO2))
-temperature (each species has an optimum)
-removal of products - i.e. CO2 or alcohol, for instance, which first slows, then stops growth beyond 15% or so (in the case of the latter)
-optimal growth medium - which would include the presence of vitamins, and of course depends on the type of nutrient too. Of course the conc. has to be
-resuppliment of furhter nutrients...

Anyway, yeast is aerobic, too. Check the 'hydrogen peroxide' thread, there is a bit more there.




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[*] posted on 24-11-2004 at 01:06
Lallemand


Go to this link for Lallemand's yeast chart. I've always found it useful and I LOVE
their yeasts !

http://www.lallemandwine.us/products/yeast_chart.php

BTW, to my fellow U.S. members who bash Canadians, please refrain from busting
my balls on this 1 as Lallemand's partner here in Baltimore is Red Star Yeast !

If you look at the top of the chart, the type 43, also known as UVAFERM is a great
yeast. I ordered a kilo of it 2 years ago. It's kept in the refrigerator of course.
Between that 1 and the ALLTECH SUPERSTART, I never have a problem
getting a high % alcohol yield. I start with the ALLTECH and if it gets stuck, I let
UVAFERM finish it off !

Be aware that SUPERSTART and UVAFERM are not offered in the 5 gram sachets that
most brewers/distillers are accustomed to ! SUPERSTART is generally 1 LB and
UVAFERM is generally 500 grams. Too me, at least, these high quantity purchases
are well worth it !




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