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Author: Subject: OTC Phosphoric Acid
tom haggen
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[*] posted on 28-11-2004 at 23:52
OTC Phosphoric Acid


Man, I can't believe how big of a slacker I am. With how much school work I need to do there is no reason why I should be posting messages right now. But here I go, Someone had mentioned that you can obtain Phosphoric acid OTC in another thread so I thought I would do some investigating. I went down to my local Hydroponics store where I get my 35% H2O2 by the gallon, and looked around. The product they had called PH Down contained a mixture of citric acid, phosphoric acid, and either ammonium bisulphate or ammonium bisulphite. I'm wondering If I will be able to separate the phosphoric acid by fractional distillation? I know that citric acid decomposes at a certain temp so I'm wondering how hard this will be. Any suggestions? I would also like to isolate the ammonium bisulphite cause I might be able to use that for titrations? I might be wrong about that last part but if anyone knows, let me know so I can hit two birds with one stone. Look out finals here I come!



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[*] posted on 29-11-2004 at 03:58


Phosphoric acid is sold OTC to prevent rust on steel. Look at your hardware store.

The brand name "Naval Jelly" comes to my mind. I think its an US brand.

Also serch for "rust converter".
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[*] posted on 29-11-2004 at 04:01
Dont bother


Its not worth it. The temperature your citric acid would decompose the phosphoric acid would etch your glass! Thats right! Modest phosphoric acid attacks silicates at high temps. ONe method I ponder is adding muriatic acid to saturated TSP to precipitate NaCl. Sure you would still need to boil excess HCL but the etching of glass would be
negligable until the phosphoric acid is concentrated.


Better still would be vacuum evaporation of the HCL so lower temperautures could be used!

[Edited on 11/29/2004 by chloric1]




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[*] posted on 29-11-2004 at 04:54


Is TSP
- tri-sodium-phosphate
or
- triple-super-phosphate

or this this the same anyways?

confused
/ORG




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[*] posted on 29-11-2004 at 06:08


Why is it that phosphoric acid is used for removing rust from steel? Is it because it passivates iron even when dilute?



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[*] posted on 29-11-2004 at 06:08


It is trisodium phosphate, Na3PO4.

Source: The bag




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[*] posted on 29-11-2004 at 08:32


The rust remover is only 25%, but certain pH down brands contain 75% with nothing else added. It all depends on the brand, because some don't even have phosphoric acid, they use dilute nitric acid. You just have to look around. Oh, off-topic but interesting, Wink rust remover is 3% HF.
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[*] posted on 29-11-2004 at 09:18


Quote:
"Is TSP
- tri-sodium-phosphate
or
- triple-super-phosphate

or this this the same anyways?"
TSP is Tri Sodium Phosphate, except when you buy it in boxes labeled "TSP" , then it is most likely a cheaper non Phosphate detergent (Sodium Carbonate or Sodium Sesqui-carbonate, or silicate) that the makers have put in a box with a Trade Marked name of "TSP". This little bit of deceptive advertising takes advantage of the ignorance of most people who buy the product to clean walls before painting them. Checking the ingredients on the box will guide you. If the label spells out the words Tri Sodium Phosphate, it is most likely a pure product, if it just uses the initials "TSP", it isn't. Tri Sodium Phosphate has long grain like crystals and shouldn't foam when treated with a mild acid such as vinegar.




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[*] posted on 29-11-2004 at 11:10


Well the stuff at my local hydroponics store is quite nasty indeed. Not only is it mixed with citric acid and ammonium bisulfite, it is contaminated with some nasty orange dye. So I don't really think I understood any of the answers given other than hot phosphoric acid will etch your glassware. That is a big fucking no no. Would you be able to separate the phosphoric acid in a vacuum distillation setup? Or would this too destroy your glass. On a side note just how many solvents out there will destroy your glass? I know NaOH will, and apparently Phosphoric acid will, any thing else come to anyone’s mind? Being some one that has worked with metal for a few years now I can honestly say I have never seen phosphoric acid used for removing rust. The only acid I have seen on the shop floor for these types of uses is hydrochloric acid. Now I've seen Nitric acid used in the metallurgical lab used for etching clean surfaces in order to observe crystalline lattice structures of metal. But no, I haven't seen phosphoric acid used in the metal shop.

[Edited on 29-11-2004 by tom haggen]




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[*] posted on 29-11-2004 at 11:19


Phosphoric acid doesn't have a boiling point that I'm aware of. It decomposes to pyrophosphoric acid and other polymeric solids, maybe at very high temps these will distill (>800C) but I'm not certain.



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[*] posted on 29-11-2004 at 11:28


When I read the msds on phosphoric acid it stated that the bp of phosphoric acid was about 158C. But this was assuming you had anhydrous phosphoric acid. Separating the phosphoric acid is starting to sound like a problem that can't be solved,:(



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[*] posted on 29-11-2004 at 11:56


According to Hawley's Condensed Chemical Dictionary regarding the boiling point of phosphoric acid:
Quote:
... the 100% acid is in the form of crystals, d 1.834 (18C), mp 42.35 C, loses 1/2 H2O at 213C (to form pyrophosphoric acid)...

Regarding pyrophosphoric acid:
Quote:
A viscous, syrupy liquid that tends to solidify on long standing at room temperature. When diluted with water it is rapidly converted into orthophosphoric acid. Mp 54C. Soluble in water.
Derivation: By heating phosphoric acid at 250 - 260C. Further heating produces metaphosphoric acid.

Regarding metaphosphoric acid:
Quote:
Derivation: By heating orthophosphoric acid to redness

No boiling point in sight from my end, sorry. Although by the end of everything most everything else, the citric acid, ammonium bisulfide, and dye should all have volatized out, your resulting metaphosphoric acid could then be re-hydrolyzed. I bought some phosphoric acid once for cleaning stainless steel from a cooking supply place, it had detergents in it and when I tried to heat to get rid of everything it foamed over and the bubbles caused my glassware to crack.




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[*] posted on 29-11-2004 at 12:00


Fluorides, hydroxides and phosphoric are the only glass etchers AFAIK. I have seen hot and concentrated phosphoric etch some of my glass in some long experiments - it looks nothing like what the hydroxides do, btw.

Phosphates are not hard to find around here. The Ca phosphates from the nursery were grey and smelled bad - that did not go well.

Home Depot sells TSP, in a box that says TSP, and is not crystalline. Yet it really is trisodium phosphate. Several other chains only sell "TSP substitute"s due to the phosphate thing.

The local chemical salvage store has barrels of the mono- and tri- Na phosphates, cheap - no one wants them.

I like it for cleaning glassware, I guess that makes me an environmental terrorist.

[Edited on 29-11-2004 by S.C. Wack]
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[*] posted on 29-11-2004 at 12:10


I've heated and concentrated phosphoric acid up to the metaphosphoric acid stage a number of times, and never noticed any attack on glassware. If there was any attack, it was much slower and less noticeable than that of HF or molten hydroxides.



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[*] posted on 29-11-2004 at 13:38


What about concentrated NaOH solution, will that do anything?
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[*] posted on 29-11-2004 at 14:44


Polverone: What type of glass is this? Phosphoric acid attacks Pyrex, so you must have some pretty good glass there.
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[*] posted on 29-11-2004 at 14:48


What links phosphates to terrorist activity if you don't mind me asking?

EDIT: This topic sounds a little more advanced than I had first anticipated. I guess I will need to learn a few more things about the chemistry of phosphoric acid before I decide to continue this endeavor.


[Edited on 29-11-2004 by tom haggen]

[Edited on 29-11-2004 by tom haggen]




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[*] posted on 29-11-2004 at 15:15


At Wal-Mart I can get phosphoric acid in the hardware section. It is sold as Concrete etchant. Never having needed phosphoric acid, I have never gotten any, so I can't tell you much about it, but the 1 gal. (3.78 L) bottle says its phosphoric acid based.



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[*] posted on 29-11-2004 at 15:16


Polverone,

Was the metaphosphoric acid for elemental phosphorus production? If so, I'd love to hear about such activities :)
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[*] posted on 29-11-2004 at 15:21


Quote:

What links phosphates to terrorist activity if you don't mind me asking?

Look on the labels of various cleansers since the 70's and you will probably see "contains NO phosphates". There was a bit of change when it became widely known that soluble phosphates change bodies of water, or rather what lives (but mostly dies) in them. Certain plants love the phosphate and cause some sort of oxygen problem IIRC. I'm sure it's in books and on Google.

Given the sewer - er - river that sewage is dumped into around here (on its way to the Mississippi), often raw, I have no qualms about adding an ounce of phosphate to it. It's too late.
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[*] posted on 29-11-2004 at 16:06


phosphorus is a shady element. i have a book about it called "the thirteenth element: a sordid tale of murder, fire and phosphorus"

interesting book. i think the main reason phosphorus compounds aren't too available is the fact that it isn't too hard to make certian organophosphates out of them...(ex: tabun, sarin)




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[*] posted on 30-11-2004 at 03:05


Yes, the metaphosphate production has mostly taken place in the course of attempts at phosphorus production. The most recent time, I was using an ordinary borosilicate test tube and simply wished to heat the acid as much as I could. The acid was heated until it turned to a solid, and it did not melt again even at the melting point of the glass. I had some hopes that it might have been dehydrated nearly to P2O5 and that I would get a strong reaction with water, but there was no such luck. I didn't notice the glass being attacked, though of course the final deformed tube resembled the starting item very little and I actually broke the glass to free the solid acid. I have also concentrated phosphoric acid (though not to that degree) in ordinary soda lime glass and not noticed any attack on the glass after it was cleaned out. What is the chemical mechanism of phosphoric acid attack on glass? I've seen enough references about it to trust that it occurs, but I've had enough experiences to say that it isn't nearly as aggressive as HF or molten alkali hydroxides.



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[*] posted on 3-12-2004 at 14:36


I've found a nitric/phosphoric acid mix at my local hardware store...

How can we synth. phosphoric acid from elemental P?




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[*] posted on 3-12-2004 at 14:55


depends on your allotrope. if it's white or red you can easily oxidize it. oxidize until you get the anhydride and then add to water



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[*] posted on 27-1-2005 at 12:23


I'd been wanting some phosphoric acid for some time (just to have it) and knew that Home Depot had a "Phosphoric Acid Cleaner" made by Aqua-Mix. When I got it home and poured some into a graduated cylinder (to check the sp. gr. by hydrometer) I noticed it was pink! Then I read the label a little more carefully and found out it contains "cleaners and degreasers." I added a little food grade activated carbon to a few mL. This eliminated the pink dye but now I'm wondering what other shit is in there and how I might remove it. I checked the MSDS on Aqua-Mix's website but it only lists phosphoric acid at 23% by volume (which corresponded to my sp. gr. reading btw).

Eventually I want to concentrate some of this acid up to 88% by evaporation. After reading this thread it seems I may want to do this at a reduced pressure to save my glassware.

If anyone has any suggestions about how I might remove the "cleaners and degreasers" I would apprecitate hearing them.




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