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Bert
Super Administrator
Posts: 2821
Registered: 12-3-2004
Member Is Offline
Mood: " I think we are all going to die. I think that love is an illusion. We are flawed, my darling".
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Connect an anti static wristband to a solid ground, which could be a ground rod, driven into the earth a good ways... Please connect it through a
megohm range RESISTOR, not directly. Ditto any anti static dissipative work surface, flooring, etc.
I hope you are not making flash indoors, in an apartment building, on the upper floor of your parents house, etc. You should be outdoors or in a
minimal shelter away from everyone and everything that you could dammage.
| Quote: | Sounds like what I'm hearing from you guys is that it would be a more relevant/appropriate contribution to the forum if I were to shift my focus away
from adhesives and containment methods, and instead begin to experiment with different (more dangerous  ) flash formulas,
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Believe me, you do not need to contribute to this forum by screwing around with trying to make hyperflash, nor are you likely to do more than reinvent
the wheel by trying.
No one wants you to risk your life, and you should do nothing that makes you nervous. 70:30 works just fine for much of the pyrotechnics industry,
particle size and mixing can do a great deal to adjust performance.
Brissance? Not what flash is for, you are generating noise, not cutting steel here...
Initiating flash with primaries? Yes, some have substituted 90:10 ammonium nitrate/Aluminum for flash and used a cap/booster in very large salutes and
bottom shots, both for economy and to have a salute mixture that would not blow a gun if the case leaked lift gasses, at least if it did not leak into
the time fuse/passfire/cap assembly- I would not care to experience a round trip and one of these detonating on the ground, however.
Flash is too fuel rich for an easily detonable material, and you have not increased safety but added an additional risk from including a primary in
your firing train. Worst of both worlds, please do not mix technologies, choose HE and cap, or choose flash and a flame initiator.
Pete Cermak of Banner Fireworks did coat large salutes and bottom shots with fiberglass & resin several decades back (he had worked in an auto
body shop, and was used to working with the materials). No one else I know of does so now, at least commercially. Pete did not die from doing so, as
he was apparently destined to hang.
Maybe it is time to read a lot more, rather than experiment.
Rapopart’s Rules for critical commentary:
1. Attempt to re-express your target’s position so clearly, vividly and fairly that your target says: “Thanks, I wish I’d thought of putting it
that way.”
2. List any points of agreement (especially if they are not matters of general or widespread agreement).
3. Mention anything you have learned from your target.
4. Only then are you permitted to say so much as a word of rebuttal or criticism.
Anatol Rapoport was a Russian-born American mathematical psychologist (1911-2007).
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XeonTheMGPony
International Hazard
Posts: 1636
Registered: 5-1-2016
Member Is Offline
Mood: No Mood
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I use nitro cotton in acetone as a glue for allot of my end caps to ensure it separates once it has don its job, physics will help you more for sound,
by using a captive air chamber to increase the pressure waves amplitude for a bigger sounding boom using less material.
glue really doesn't matter at the speed it goes at gum will work, the emphasis is on the geometry of the charge and even internal pressure
distribution. again I used shellac/varnish as it is what I had when making my charges
As stated do more reading, no need to mess with well established methods!
Some bursting charges used: An 95/5 carbon milled set off with a fullimate cap, Flash powder, fine black powder.
depends on the effect you're after, flash and black will give a deeper boom, the H.E. gives a sharper crack.
I am in no way even a professional on the subject but I have made a good bit of charges for aerial display and had moderat success and I did it by
following established methodes, with just small personal twists for colour and casing methods.
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Armistice19
Hazard to Self
Posts: 87
Registered: 19-6-2007
Member Is Offline
Mood: Brain sponge activated!
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Thanks everyone for your advice. Much appreciated.
I think I would be comfortable with diapering in some sulfur/antimony trisulfide to the mix next time I have a free, uninterrupted day. Specifically I
would like to try Thunder Flash formula # 3. On page 40 of the complete book of flash powder, as again, I am primarily going for decibel level here.
As far as adding silver acetylide to my flash, I have decided not to do so, as this would be "mixing technologies" as Bert mentioned, or altering
“well established methods” as Xeon said. Not to put down the suggestion from PHILOU, as it sounds like you achieved some pretty high decibel
levels! But I’m just not comfortable with that for now.
Yes flash powder is not really for brisance at all, but that sure as heck doesn't mean I don’t like observing what little it has, and I do think
thicker walled tubing may affect it slightly.
Personally, I'm not sure watching steel being cut in half by semtex would be interesting to me right now. But the small dirt craters and shattered
plywood I have observed from flash devices is actually quite fascinating to me at this time.
Read more? Experiment less? Sounds like just what I need right now! Any good reads that anyone has to suggest? (other than the ones already suggested
by pyro-alan at the beginning of this thread, which I will be reading shortly.)
[Edited on 8-19-2016 by Armistice19]
[Edited on 8-19-2016 by Armistice19]
[Edited on 8-19-2016 by Armistice19]
“Imagination is more important than knowledge. For knowledge is limited to all we now know and understand, while imagination embraces the entire
world, and all there ever will be to know and understand.” -Albert Einstein
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