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Author: Subject: When Chemistry Goes Wrong
NeonPulse
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[*] posted on 12-4-2017 at 04:11


so i made an attempt at making potassium dichromate via heating Cr2O3 with KOH and KClO3. went fairly well during the initial 10 mins heating but at one point it got too hot and the whole thing ended in a spectacular runaway which was bubbling very violently and ended up ejected much of the red hot molten mixture up like a volcano. it was relatively contained in the work area with a bit of paper on which my notes were written getting splashed and catching fire and some scorch marks on the sleeve of my labcoat the only damage.
I was able to retrieve much of the now rock hard mixture off the burner and sides of the crucible and the little balls of it on the board, to continue the synthesis. the rest of the synthesis was pretty un eventful. thats my excitement for yesterday. one screenshot shows the mixture left in the stainless steel crucible still glowing red hot.

IMG_2797.PNG - 2.5MBIMG_2798.PNG - 2.5MB




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[*] posted on 12-4-2017 at 11:03


Oh wow, that doesn't sound like much fun to clean up! Did you get a decent product?



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tsathoggua1
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[*] posted on 13-4-2017 at 13:03


Me, with the WP? not a clue. It might have been for a moment, but obviously not ALL of the argon backpurge before beginning to heat prior to sealing must have been purged, for the ampoule gave a CRACK! loud enough to wake my sleeping old man, and afterwards, only a few tiny fragments of glass, coated in phosphorus, were ever discovered, the rest of it, ampoule and all, ended up atomized in a fine cloud of glass dust from the obsservation of said event, and as for the phosphorus, part of it obviously burnt to a huge cloud of smoke instantly, being dispersed finely, and the rest, well some of it rebounded off my face shield and coveralls to splatter across a wooden cabinet, leaving a trail of burn marks an inch or two or three in circumference. And a little caught my hair (this is not because of inadequate protective gear, rather, due to the great length of my hair. Its a face shield that goes down below my shoulders, not a 'near-to-stomach shield' :P and I ended up with some hair burnt extra-crispy and the stink of burning proteins, but other than that no harm done (to me) whatsoever, can't say the same for the cabinet, that took a trail of burning splatters.

Was more hacked off about the loss of the ampoule I'd made, and the loss of a few grams of white phosphorus and having to go reset the fire alarm set off by the P2O5. No damage to the face-upper torso shield, the WP seems to have rebounded off of it and gone on to toast that cabinet. Only a few g of WP, a few thousandths of my supply of red P went into its creation, other than that, not a problem, just an irritation.

What else....annoyingly, a NaOH/KOH melt, producing NaK alloy electrolytically brutally attacked the nickel alloy electrodes (guitar fret wire pieces, and the end of it that started out blunt, used as anode ended up being corroded so badly it was a razor sharp point when withdrawn from the ~200 'C melt. The point on it was as sharp as any hypodermic needle tip and the end at least as fine as one of the 28 gauge needle sometimes used for my pain medication, and I imagine lengths of such electrolytically sharpened fretwire, being triangular rougly, would make, for those who wished to do so, fantastic ammunition for a shotgun cartridge, that would autostabilize in flight due to the T-like profile of the remainder of the fret wire other than the sharpened tip. Like a beehive flechette round fired from tanks etc.

I'd rather have had the wire undamaged though since it was the only long piece I have, but still, will come in handy for poking blocked condensers open.
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[*] posted on 13-4-2017 at 13:46


I'm not seeing what went wrong exactly; what is another chemist to learn from these experiences with white phosphorus and NaK? To use PPE when handling dangerous substances? I mean, it's not quite, "Today I accidentally killed my dog while distilling some prussic acid in my grandmother's basement :( Good thing I was wearing a gas mask." I am interested in phosphorus chemistry, but I don't have any phosphorus, so I'm not *that* interested in it. But if you have exciting stories about phosphorus and NaK, I am sure people are interested in them.

I was thinking about actually trying a similar potassium dichromate synthesis but with potassium nitrate, so I am really quite interested in the synthesis with potassium chlorate. Chromium chemistry seems to be a popular topic right now, and it's plenty dangerous enough if you like that sort of thing.


[Edited on 13-4-2017 by JJay]




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NeonPulse
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[*] posted on 13-4-2017 at 18:44


the synthesis was fairly straight forward and the yield is 14g- i attribute this lowered figure to the obvious losses in the first stage. this was the second time around attempting this synthesis.
The first try was using sodium nitrate as the oxidiser and it did seem to be inferior and the reduced yellow solution released quite some NO2 upon acidification which suggests that NaNO2 was formed as well. there was also quite a lot of un reacted Cr2O3 on my filter so it probably needed longer heating even though it was heated full blast for about an hour. i had a problem with the workup so i had to ditch that attempt.
i did not have any KNO3 around to use this instead. i would say the chlorate method is probably better but i think slow and steady heating is the way to go. also use a large crucible! i only had a smallish batch 25g Cr2O3/ 28g KCLO3/30g KOH and thought that the size would easily handle the mixture but obviously i was wrong.




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[*] posted on 15-4-2017 at 03:24


The moral of the tale is to (probably) heat the OPEN ampoule a bit, to drive out the inert gas until P vapor is slightly exiting the amp, covering the end with a jet of inert gas and fusing with a secondary torch. Perhaps using one of those micro torches to expel the air and then seal it before suckback of air occurs. The ampoule was small, made from a 2ml (bulb size) pipette, the phosphorus being introduced as a suspension via cannula as in a volatile solvent, not quite sure what, but an inert for contact cleaning, rapid drying spray, kept mildly warm for a while to expel the solvent (it boils off in moments) by keeping the UNfused ampoule in the oven for a little while, away from direct flame.

On sealing it, then heating, the change occured from red to white unusually quickly. I noticed an odd change in appearance of the red phosphorus, it changed from its usual color to a dark color, like that of mercury sulfide, before transition to white P, and then all of a sudden the amp went off with a bang, loud enough to wake my sleeping father. Really glad of that face shield, since it got peppered with glass, as the amp ended up atomized, not much left of it, the resultant crack when it went off was sufficient to reduce it to dust, only a few small fragments left.

I'm curious about the change in the red phosphorus observed shortly before the disintegration of the ampoule. It darkened very significantly. Could this perhaps have been the beginnings of a transition to violet phosphorus?

This is afterall a thread for chemistry going wrong. It was chemistry. It went wrong. Scratch one ampoule, spend the rest of the night scratchING the jet-trail of burn marks off one of the nearby wooden carbinets. Personally I think it sort of decorative, in a way only a mad scientist could appreciate :D

As for chromium chemistry, I do have a synthesis of chromyl chloride planned actually, since I happen to have ended up with some very resistant bottles (the caps, that is) that seal well, especially wrapped in teflon tape.

The NaK is on hold for now. Well, probably. I do have a melt in a crucible to drill a hole in and see if there was any deposited under the surface of the melt, but it proved too reactive to isolate, forming large (about a half inch) bubble-like blobs which collapsed in on themselves in showers of sparks immediately. Unfortunately my power supply has blown something inside, and its beyond my ability to fix it. My old man is going to take a look at it, if its buggered, I'll buy myself a welding supply and use it to drive a constant-current DC source with variable yields. The lack of a power supply is driving me nuts:( I was spending all night, most nights, beavering away with it. Did get some sodium and sodium-calcium alloy out of it though.

NaK is, as well known, more reactive than Na or K, but bloody hell, just HOW reactive coming out of the melt is understated if anything. Small amounts spark and burn the second they touch air, larger bubbles of it can make quite a mess. Had to clean the walls after every experiment in NaK electrolysis due to the spatter of KOH and NaOH.

On to something a little tamer, until I get a power supply back up and running, got a manganese thermite planned for today. Zinc-plated one of my carbon crucibles as a temporary shield between the carbon and the manganese oxide hydroxide. Finishing drying off the oxide in preparation for reduction.
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[*] posted on 15-4-2017 at 05:33


Quote: Originally posted by NeonPulse  
the synthesis was fairly straight forward and the yield is 14g- i attribute this lowered figure to the obvious losses in the first stage. this was the second time around attempting this synthesis.
The first try was using sodium nitrate as the oxidiser and it did seem to be inferior and the reduced yellow solution released quite some NO2 upon acidification which suggests that NaNO2 was formed as well. there was also quite a lot of un reacted Cr2O3 on my filter so it probably needed longer heating even though it was heated full blast for about an hour. i had a problem with the workup so i had to ditch that attempt.
i did not have any KNO3 around to use this instead. i would say the chlorate method is probably better but i think slow and steady heating is the way to go. also use a large crucible! i only had a smallish batch 25g Cr2O3/ 28g KCLO3/30g KOH and thought that the size would easily handle the mixture but obviously i was wrong.


Good to know. I figured that using a large crucible would help, but I didn't know it needed to be anywhere close to that large with that size batch.

I have been tossing around the idea of making a few mL of chromyl chloride for an ampule, but it wouldn't be my reagent of choice for any oxidation that I can think of, and I definitely don't want to be posting in this section about how I dropped a liter of chromyl chloride on concrete and ruined my new Asics.




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[*] posted on 16-4-2017 at 11:27


Trust me, thats really not pretty if it happens. Had just that occur once due to a flask failure, cracked right round the middle of the distillation flask and the bottom dropped out, and likewise the reaction mixture. Wasted a lot of dichromate and the best part of a liter of 98% sulfuric, plus scratch one desk. Nearly hit me too, thankfully I was quick enough to get out of the way. Not a mixture I'd like being covered with at ~120 'C:o

It is useful stuff though, the Etard reaction can selectively oxidize alcohols to aldehydes. Needs care in the choice of solvent though, chlorinated hydrocarbons, CH2Cl2 especially is a good choice.

[Edited on 16-4-2017 by tsathoggua1]
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[*] posted on 16-4-2017 at 11:39


I'd probably use a different reagent for that. Pretty much any chromium based oxidizer can oxidize primary alcohols to aldehydes, but they also oxidize aldehydes to carboxylic acids in aqueous conditions.



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tsathoggua1
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[*] posted on 16-4-2017 at 11:50


CrrO2Cl2 is NOT compatible with H2O. It fumes in air, releasing HCl, and best used in anhydrous DCM. There is no way of using CrO2Cl2 in aq. conditions. Don't let water get to the stuff, its messy and downright unpleasant.
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[*] posted on 16-4-2017 at 15:02


Chromyl chloride hydrolyzes to hydrochloric acid and chromic acid in water. That combination can certainly oxidize alcohols to carboxylic acids.

Chromyl chloride isn't "compatible" with the things you would be oxidizing with it either, so I'm not sure what you are getting at. What do you clean up a liter of spilled chromyl chloride with anyway?




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[*] posted on 16-4-2017 at 15:40


Quote: Originally posted by JJay  
What do you clean up a liter of spilled chromyl chloride with anyway?


A litre!? Ouch!

I'd use plenty of PPE including a respirator and flood the scene with a solution of sodium sulfite.
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[*] posted on 17-4-2017 at 13:23


What do you clean it up with? you run like the devil himself were nipping at your heels.

And it was a liter of CrO2Cl2, plus a liter of sulfuric (98%), and the corresponding quantities of NaCl and dichromate, potassium dichromate IIRC. Was quite some years back. And I just got the hell out of the way and let it hydrolyse, sealed off the room for the next few days and vented it out. Couldn't have gotten close enough at the moment of flask failure. Its not pretty on that scale!!

Thankfully my receiving flask had stayed intact as had condenser. So I did get to keep some of my distilled chromyl chloride at least:D

[Edited on 17-4-2017 by tsathoggua1]
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[*] posted on 28-4-2017 at 11:12


Not a disaster, but...

Tried to filter excess Cu(OH)2 from concentrated Schweitzers reagent solution.

Used paper filter.

Filter dissolved.

Noticed incredibly obvious fuck-up.

Cried self to sleep.




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[*] posted on 29-4-2017 at 02:40


That cracked me up.
Well done, Tetra.
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[*] posted on 7-5-2017 at 03:38


Today I managed to get sulfuric acid on several of my fingers.

The first time it was from picking up a rag I had used to wipe up a tiny amount of spilled sulfuric acid. I remember thinking, "Something tingles," and then realized what I was holding. I washed my fingers under water and then rubbed sodium carbonate on them and washed them some more. It left these big watery sulfuric acid blisters that were apparently full of dilute sulfuric acid. The second time I was holding a graduated cylinder (rather stupidly) with no gloves and pouring sulfuric acid and I noticed that my thumb was getting carbonized, although I didn't feel any pain. I put it under water for a while and got another sulfuric acid blister.

This was the first time I had ever gotten sulfuric acid on my hands, and I think I've handled quite a bit of sulfuric acid... and it happened twice within a period of about 10 minutes.

I was worried that I was going to have some nasty painful wounds, but after half an hour or so, the blisters dried up and my skin re-laminated itself. The skin on my fingers is still a little dry but other than that everything seems ok. I actually don't have particularly heavy-duty hands, but I sure am glad I didn't rub my eye or something.




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[*] posted on 7-5-2017 at 04:17


Does this count? https://youtu.be/VRoYCpjMPyk?t=56s
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[*] posted on 7-5-2017 at 06:15


The viscosity of conc sulfuric acid can be a real pain sometimes. If you aren't careful, it's easy to get that one drop which clings to the pouring spout, then runs down the side of the container when you put it down. With good quality, clear acid, most of the time I don't notice unless I put it down on a piece of paper towel; a habit I've gotten into for that very reason.



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[*] posted on 7-5-2017 at 06:38


I have adopted the habit of rinsing the outside of my acid bottles after use,
I use self-adhesive paper labels but a quick rinse so far has not caused label damage,

and anything that comes into contact with conc. sulfuric acid
( stir rod, thermometer, funnel, measuring cylinder etc.)
I dunk under water then rinse, immediately after use.
... usually ...




CAUTION : Hobby Chemist, not Professional or even Amateur
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JJay
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[*] posted on 7-5-2017 at 15:41


It is easy to get lackadaisical around sulfuric acid if you handle it all the time. After all, it's not *that* dangerous compared to strong sodium hydroxide solutions or hydrogen peroxide. At the same time, it is one of the strongest commonly available acids and can cause extremely serious injuries. I wipe off the bottle, graduated cylinders, etc. after using them, but of course I should remember to put the rag used for doing so into water immediately rather than leaving it at arm's reach. It would also probably be a good idea to use a wet rag....

I sometimes do the paper towel trick also, and it is a good one.




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tsathoggua1
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[*] posted on 10-5-2017 at 07:27


Excluding getting it in the eyes, I'm surprised that NaOH, concentrated or otherwise is rated as more hazardous than concentrated sulfuric. At least with NaOH there is a quick window within which to wash it off thoroughly, due to the greasy layer of saponified fats produced. The only time it gives me the willies a bit in terms of caution required is when not in solution but in the molten state,, fused NaOH at a few hundred degrees 'C is definitely rather nasty stuff. I'd still give concentrated H2SO4 my vote for the more dangerous substance however.
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[*] posted on 10-5-2017 at 08:06


There's a window to wash off most mineral acids (note: no one should ever attempt to replicate anything in this video or conduct similar experiments with caustic substances): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XeVZQoJ5FdE

I have never personally gotten any sodium hydroxide on my skin other than a prill once or twice, but I have read that concentrated sodium hydroxide is extremely dangerous....




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[*] posted on 15-5-2017 at 14:03


I usually put solutions in the microwave to get them up to boiling, even if I'm going to continue heating on a hotplate later. This is what I did the other day, when I put a 600 mL beaker in the microwave, containing ~250 mL of tribasic sodium citrate solution in excess sodium hydroxide, and a few inches of wooden dowel to act as a nucleation site for bubbles. I left the room for a few minutes (maybe 3 at the outside) as it heated.

When I returned, there was a charred, caramel smell in the air. Looking in the microwave, the liquid in the beaker was hot and brown, and the dowel was not at first visible. My first thought was that the very basic, boiling liquid had dissolved the wood. On closer inspection, though, I saw that the dowel had in fact been burnt into two pieces and fallen into the liquid. The burn mark looked to coincide with the level of the liquid.

Has anyone seen this sort of thing before? My (speculative) explanation is that a bit of solution landed on the wood, dried, and then the residual sodium hydroxide absorbed microwave energy until it melted, charring the wood. The carbon produced would then act as an accelerating energy sink. :o




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[*] posted on 15-5-2017 at 14:43


I dunno. But if it was me I would try to replicate this -- and watch it this time.
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[*] posted on 16-5-2017 at 11:04


I tried recreating it on a small scale with concentrated NaOH; nothing happened with the stick but the beaker cracked, apparently from thermal stress, and I had to figure out how to move a cracked, liable to disintegrate container full of hot lye :( rescuing the TSC is probably my top priority right this second.



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