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CharlieA
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careysub: I agree with you about the T-nuts, but what do you think the of threaded -type inserts? They can also be epoxied in.
aga: if you make the wood/steel sheet laminates we would all like to hear the results. Here the beer cans are aluminum. I wonder if laminating this Al
to plywood would also work.
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aga
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Clearly, any metal with some strength would work.
The 'trick' would all be in the bonding.
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Sulaiman
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in this particular case you could use heat-fit metal bands
(like iron rings for wooden wheels or barrels.
Or just string + lacquer works https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=whipping&source=lnms&a...
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Arg0nAddict
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Not that it means anything coming from me but I am very impressed by your work here. As another hobby I sell stuff to niche markets and this caught my
eye. I would never steal a persons idea and market it as I know how it feels, but you should truly think about selling it as a DIY kit that includes
detailed instructions and all the tools, material and specs.
I don't know if you have the time but you can also switch things up a bit. When I have a complete kit or project selling well in a metal work forum
ill redesign add whatever improvements people suggest, fix the complaints and then go to the 3d printer community, woodworking... That way your not
profiting from just one group but many. I would say look at the designs for the manlift type scissor lift and use square tubing for the frame and
scissors, hydraulics are incredibly simple look at this youtube video where the guy uses a few syringes and tubing filled with water: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kfhki3RkJv0
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careysub
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Quote: Originally posted by CharlieA  | careysub: I agree with you about the T-nuts, but what do you think the of threaded -type inserts? They can also be epoxied in.
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I use hole-grabbing threaded inserts (several types - I don't have a strong preference) with epoxy.
But what is the application here? The holes in the jack side pieces aren't attachments, they are bearings. I suppose you could use a threaded inert in
one, then a bolt in the other through a smooth hole, to eliminate the use of a nut, but there is no real increase in design strength then.
I think bolt+nut is the way to go for ease of construction and cost.
| Quote: Originally posted by aga | Clearly, any metal with some strength would work.
The 'trick' would all be in the bonding. |
You are correct. A good bonding adhesive is required, but readily available these days. The load on the skin is actually quite low in this application
so as long as it makes a bond, and the bond does not spontaneously debond due to environmental conditions, you are good to go.
A quart kit of structural epoxy is reasonably priced, goes a long way, and is more than up to the job. I tend to use laminating epoxy as an adhesive
since I already have it on hand for fiberglass and carbon fiber work (Kevlar too - but it is neither fish nor fowl, I find either fiberglass or carbon
fiber are best for any particular project).
Sheet steel is the cheapest metal, and by far the cheapest for it strength.
Regarding you original question about why to use steel with wood, the suggestion to use tee-nuts or other threaded inserts is exactly the same idea of
using steel in some form to enhance a wood build. I was just pointing out the most effective way of doing that.
Unless you are planning on stacking steel plates on the lab jack (since it handled a stack of bricks pretty well) I think just wood is fine.
[Edited on 3-7-2016 by careysub]
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