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Author: Subject: Optimal Electrolytic Solution for Lichtenberg Wood Burnings
Tungsten.Chromium
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[*] posted on 16-1-2018 at 06:31
Optimal Electrolytic Solution for Lichtenberg Wood Burnings


Hello all!

A friend of mine and I spent this last weekend burning Lichtenberg figures into some wooden planks we had found lying around the barn using an oil burner ignition transformer. We found that the voltage really liked to follow the grain of the wood.

In order for the current to properly flow through and burn the wood, it had to be coated in an electrolytic solution. We used a crude mixture of baking soda and tap water.

I am curious to find the "optimal" solution to apply for conductivity. In addition, I would like to be able to block the direction of the burn as well; I am assuming DI water would be ideal. Can anyone recommend a particular solution composition that you feel would conduct electricity very well without reacting with wood to change its color too much?

http://i65.tinypic.com/2q2qxle.jpg

2q2qxle.jpg - 821kB




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[*] posted on 16-1-2018 at 08:56


If you’re up for some solid maths and experimentation, I found this procedure for determining the conductance of electrolyte solutions.

https://www.csun.edu/~jeloranta/CHEM351L/experiment4.pdf

I’d recommend trying potassium nitrate or sodium chloride as the electrolyte, as these two are used in the salt bridges for standard electrode potential experiments.




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[*] posted on 16-1-2018 at 10:22


Quote: Originally posted by Tungsten.Chromium  


I am curious to find the "optimal" solution to apply for conductivity. In addition, I would like to be able to block the direction of the burn as well; I am assuming DI water would be ideal. Can anyone recommend a particular solution composition that you feel would conduct electricity very well without reacting with wood to change its color too much?


I doubt you want very good conduction that would not heat up.

You want sufficent conduction that the conduction path heats up but not so high that it shorts out the voltage source. So the ideal resitance will depend on the voltage source and its impedance.
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[*] posted on 16-1-2018 at 11:12


If you can get it, try strontium nitrate (or other pyrotechnic colour salts)
- I guess that the burning process will look more interesting with red (or other colour) flames :P

[Edited on 16-1-2018 by Sulaiman]




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[*] posted on 16-1-2018 at 11:22


For "blocking" the flow, could you paint the electrolyte on the wood in the desired pattern? The current should follow the electrolyte path and not stray much into the rest of the wood. Disclaimer: I have no experience with this experiment and am not 100% sure how it works!

[Edited on 1-16-2018 by MrHomeScientist]
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[*] posted on 16-1-2018 at 12:12


Quote: Originally posted by LearnedAmateur  
If you’re up for some solid maths and experimentation, I found this procedure for determining the conductance of electrolyte solutions.

https://www.csun.edu/~jeloranta/CHEM351L/experiment4.pdf

I’d recommend trying potassium nitrate or sodium chloride as the electrolyte, as these two are used in the salt bridges for standard electrode potential experiments.


Potassium nitrate could very well make the burn spread farther than you would like.

Sodium chlorate might be fun, too.....




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[*] posted on 16-1-2018 at 14:05


There is an electronics forum with alot on it about this, be careful though. If the current is enough to burn wood its not going to be healthy
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[*] posted on 17-1-2018 at 11:26


Thank you for all the quick replies!

I think I should have been a little more specific on how we were applying the solution to the wood. We used a sponge dipped in the liquid and wiped a thin layer of the solution on the boards first. After they dried, we knocked in some finishing nails, hooked up the leads, and turned it on. I guess what I'm getting at is that I don't need the solution itself to be overly conductive, but am more concerned with the conductivity of the residue left behind. We dd have better results with planks that were still a little damp, so maybe its better to have the solution put on right before we hit the switch.

Quote: Originally posted by wg48  

You want sufficent conduction that the conduction path heats up but not so high that it shorts out the voltage source. So the ideal resitance will depend on the voltage source and its impedance.



Our voltage source is 120v, single phase, 60hz. My friend is the electrician and he said the meter read about 4.3A being pulled while burning. We are stepping that voltage to 10kV RMS with about 25mA output (still very dangerous).
We have run it until the two paths meet a few times. The transformer jumps to peak voltage (14kV) and thats when we turn it off. There is an overload relay in front of the transformer as well as a breaker for current protection and neither one of them have popped yet.

Quote: Originally posted by MrHomeScientist  
For "blocking" the flow, could you paint the electrolyte on the wood in the desired pattern? The current should follow the electrolyte path and not stray much into the rest of the wood. Disclaimer: I have no experience with this experiment and am not 100% sure how it works!
[Edited on 1-16-2018 by MrHomeScientist]


This was a fun learning experience last time and part of the reason for the original post! Even when we only "painted" the areas we wanted the current to take, it still didn't like to cross the grain, this is why I'm looking for a better conductor solution to paint on there. When following the grain, we may even use one molarity, and when crossing the grain, we might have to use a higher one.


Thank you again for all the replies, we're planning on doing some more burns this weekend. I'll see if we can play with these ideas a bit and post results!




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[*] posted on 23-1-2018 at 12:03


Well this last weekend didn't go as well as the first, but was still pretty cool nonetheless. We tried coating some new boards using a 3M and 1M baking soda solutions and the results were not as interesting as our crude mixture. (The 3M solution didn't even fully dissolve). We also had some issues with the solution drying out and not conducting, which was strange since it was over 70F with humidity aroud 90%!

My next question would be to look into maybe a "dry cell" battery paste that we could try coating the boards with. I believe that as these burnings are happening, the wood is heating up and drying out too much. As the wood is becoming too dry, the conductivity goes down and sometimes the circuit stops burning. I think if we had a dry conductive solution, we could get uniform conductivity throughout the board. I need to find the right solution that stays conductive enough while wet, but not too wet so that it stops current from flowing.

I wasn't able to find any potassium nitrate around town, so I'll have to find a supplier online and order some. Once we get some better looking burns I'll post more pictures.




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