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Author: Subject: Solubility of natural resin
Magpie
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[*] posted on 13-9-2018 at 08:23


This might work:

https://www.de-solv-it.com/




The single most important condition for a successful synthesis is good mixing - Nicodem
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draculic acid69
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[*] posted on 13-10-2018 at 03:13


I remember working at a car restoration shop and we used eucalyptus oil to get tree sap off of it .at first we couldn't figure out how tree sap got allover it.it was bought at an auction from an insurance company.it must have been stolen and then hidden under some branches or something.anyway try eucalyptus oil.
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happyfooddance
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[*] posted on 13-10-2018 at 07:17


Quote: Originally posted by Xrpdguy  

I just cannot dissolve fuckin' resin in any solvent (except limonene cause its hard to obtain it( a lot of time and peels)).


What planet do you live on? d-limonene is cheap as dirt and available everywhere, it is a waste product of a huge industry (citrus juicing). It is available in consumer products as well.
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Xrpdguy
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[*] posted on 15-10-2018 at 00:35


Quote: Originally posted by happyfooddance  
Quote: Originally posted by Xrpdguy  

I just cannot dissolve fuckin' resin in any solvent (except limonene cause its hard to obtain it( a lot of time and peels)).


What planet do you live on? d-limonene is cheap as dirt and available everywhere, it is a waste product of a huge industry (citrus juicing). It is available in consumer products as well.


I know on which planet do I live but before posting any comment you should check out in which country I live. So in my country the limonene isn't available for free buying (in the shop).
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DrP
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[*] posted on 15-10-2018 at 07:03


Quote: Originally posted by Xrpdguy  

Do you think that Ethanol and isopropyl mixture can help?
Or any other mixture?
[Edited on 12-9-2018 by Xrpdguy]



If THF and Acetone aren't working then I doubt alcohol will work. Sorry.

Can you smash the sample into a powder? The increased surface area will help speed up any dissolution, but you will need a solvent that actually has some ability to attack your resin.




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Xrpdguy
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[*] posted on 18-10-2018 at 06:40


Quote: Originally posted by DrP  
Quote: Originally posted by Xrpdguy  

Do you think that Ethanol and isopropyl mixture can help?
Or any other mixture?
[Edited on 12-9-2018 by Xrpdguy]



If THF and Acetone aren't working then I doubt alcohol will work. Sorry.

Can you smash the sample into a powder? The increased surface area will help speed up any dissolution, but you will need a solvent that actually has some ability to attack your resin.

I think that I have found the right solvent. I used fresh prepared ethyl-benzoate and a little sample of smashed resin. The mixture was heated with infrared lamp for about ten minutes and temperature about 50°C.
The resin was partly dissolved.
Thats big move in my research i think.

For preparing ethyl-benzoate i used 70% Ethanol and( twice precrystalized by sublimation)benzoic acid.
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Xrpdguy
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[*] posted on 25-10-2018 at 03:57


I still have a problem. Ethyl benzoate cannot dissolve the resin at all without IR lamp :(

I have tried MMA as a solvent with heating under 100 degrees of celsius and stirring, but nothing happened. The resin became more hard.:(
Then i tried with styrene (temp. above 100 degrees and stirring but i wasnt successful at all).

Do you have any idea? The solvent needs to dissolve resin but not to destroy its structure at all (so any kind of hydrolysus isnt a good option), thats the pity part.:o

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[*] posted on 25-10-2018 at 06:36


When making propolis tincture you usually chill it and run it through a blender to make a fine powder, then keep it in 95% EtOH for weeks, some people prefer 70% but I don't really know which one is better.
If you evaporate out the alcohol you get a very brittle resin that softens a lot when heated.

Anyways the composition is different as others have pointed out that resin is highly polymerized, but maybe it helps.

[Edited on 25-10-2018 by kulep]
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Xrpdguy
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[*] posted on 26-10-2018 at 04:01


Thats it! The research is stopped until next Spring or Summer, because of resin.
The structure is highly polymerized isoprene molecules and because of that any kind of chemial reaction is useless (if you dont want to destroy its structure).

Chemical reactions are allow only when poly-(isoprene) is still low polymerized (in early Spring or Summer). I have to collect it in the moment when it leaves the tree.
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andy1988
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[*] posted on 26-10-2018 at 18:22


Quote: Originally posted by Xrpdguy  
I have to collect it in the moment when it leaves the tree.


Perhaps you'll find this article informative: A New System of Gathering Turpentine.

Note the use of an air-tight jar, and the claimed 50% loss of turpentine (the volatile fraction) to evaporation via the box method.

In your upcoming harvest I suppose you could use a spile, vinyl tubing, and a mason jar, possibly with a rubber/silicone grommet. Pine trees (evergreens) produce sap year round, with less yield during winter... I don't know about cherry/plum or its composition. EDIT: Some tree species don't produce much sap. If you read on Maple sap extraction, it may be assisted to increase yield by mechanical vacuum, or even just the siphon effect by running the tube downhill (even a foot or two should give a helpful siphon, the more the height difference the better).

From my understanding, the volatile fraction of the sap (turpentine in the case of pine sap) acts as a "solvent" which allows the solid fraction of the sap (rosin) to flow through the tree. Perhaps this gives some insight into the turpentine & limonine suggestions?

Perhaps there are some chemical changes in the cherry/plum resin/rosin causing solidification, but I think evaporation of the volatile fraction may also have something to do with the solidification?

[Edited on 27-10-2018 by andy1988]
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