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Author: Subject: Latest chemical order?
plante1999
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[*] posted on 22-6-2013 at 05:46


There is no strong smell, and I know why pyro's catched fire. The red phosphorus he send is very pure, probably more than lab reagent grade. It is not stabilized, stabilized phosphorus is somewhat crystalline, and contain small percentage of alkali earth chloride and organic compound, generally 2%

Mine is a very fine flowing powder which leave no residue whatsoever on distillation. I guess it is phosphorus from intermediate step in the plant.




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Pyro
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[*] posted on 2-9-2013 at 10:08


I just got a pair of L milspec. butyl gloves. 14mil
I kind of paid too much, $32,95 shipping included, but now I have something better than cheap disposables that always tear.
Tomorrow I am going to get some cotton gloves to wear inside them
WP_20130902_008.jpg - 62kB
does anybody else use these? from my (very short) experience it feels like cotton liners are needed. comments?




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Bot0nist
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[*] posted on 2-9-2013 at 10:42


I use them at work, as they are much more resistant to ketones and solvents (M.E.K. in particular). They hold up good to most anything, including tears and punctures. Cotton underneath would make them much less sticky and wet from sweat after use, and would probably make them more comfertable. I really only use them when im literaly dipping things into solvent with my hands though. They seem a bit bulky for daily use in my home. I use disposable nitriles in the lab for the convenience and dexterity vs. the thicker, more resistant gloves.



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mr.crow
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[*] posted on 2-9-2013 at 10:57


Quote: Originally posted by plante1999  
800g red phosphorus from a poland ebay seller, 3.5 month shipping...


Wow, the wait must have been excruciating. Customs would not be happy with that :( Congrats on the awesome element though!




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Pyro
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[*] posted on 2-9-2013 at 11:03


good, I did choose butyl for its compatibility with what I generally do.
http://www.customadvanced.com/chemical-resistance-chart.html
off to the art shop tomorrow after school for cotton liners, I thought I might need liners, so to test I wore them for about five mins, by then they were already getting kind of slippery from sweat! I like the fact that they reach up your forearms, I tend to get stuff there, so now they protect them.

do you clean them daily? if so, how? soap and water?





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Bot0nist
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[*] posted on 2-9-2013 at 12:13


Soap and warm water seem to suffice. Sometimes the very solvent I am using them to protect me from if I need to remove the adhesive or paint from them. Might need to pick a cleaner depending on what you get on them.

Mine have held up for a while. They are good quality. I believe I got them from a harbor frieght catalog or something like that from work. They were high, maybe $25 usd or so, so I dont think you overpaid to much.




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Mailinmypocket
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[*] posted on 2-9-2013 at 12:25


Quote: Originally posted by mr.crow  
Quote: Originally posted by plante1999  
800g red phosphorus from a poland ebay seller, 3.5 month shipping...


Wow, the wait must have been excruciating. Customs would not be happy with that :( Congrats on the awesome element though!


Indeed! Any pics of what they shipped it in or what the material looks like?
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plante1999
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[*] posted on 2-9-2013 at 12:48


I will take one as soon as possible.



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Pyro
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[*] posted on 2-9-2013 at 14:37


mailinmypocket. it was most likely shipped in a container like this:

2013-04-10 18.47.46.jpg - 39kB
as was mine. the powder looked like this:


WP_20130815_007.jpg - 83kB

@Bot0nist: thanks, ill see what I get on them, do you work in a lab? what's it like?



[Edited on 2-9-2013 by Pyro]




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Bot0nist
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[*] posted on 2-9-2013 at 15:08


I work in a greenhouse and nursery that is currently under expansion. Large amounts of different plastics are involved, so I use fairly large amounts of diffrent solvents and adhesives. I also work with the various pesticides, fertilizers, buffers, hormones, etc. I also help run the (semi...)automated misting controls, shades, and under-root heat from the boiler for propagation.

I do have a modest hobby "lab" at home, but work is not a conventional lab at all. Mostly a lot of repetitive work, like snipping thousands of cuttings or "sticking" unrooted cuttings into rooting media. Hence the moniker <b>Bot</b>0nist. I often feel robotic when at work.

I try to use my intrests in chemistry and the scientific method at work when I can though.

edit:
In retrospect, this is all getting rather off topoic. Perhaps more suited for u2u.

[Edited on 2-9-2013 by Bot0nist]




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Pyro
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[*] posted on 2-9-2013 at 15:12


that sounds pretty cool, more fun than school :D

I always thought it was Bot0nist from botanist.

anyway, thanks!




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[*] posted on 2-9-2013 at 15:24


Hey pyro I use gloves similar to that, they arent butyl theyre just plain rubber if i remember correctly but from my experience its much more comfortable when I use liner gloves I'd highly recommend an underglove I personally have some fancy Ansell Barrier gloves. If I remember correctly the undergloves have chemical resistance on par with fluoropolymers so as long as my gloves arent punctured nothing should eat through to my hands :) The only complaint about the gloves that I have is that my arm\hand tends to get quite sweaty after extend periods of wearing them. Other than that I like them much better than disposable loves.





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Pyro
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[*] posted on 3-9-2013 at 03:17


the liner is plastic? that must be uncomfortable! I actually considered using disposables in them to hold sweat, but as they are slightly big cotton would be better.

could it be that those so called liners are supposed to go over the glove to protect it? it looks big enough, the fact that they say ''barrier'' instead of liner and the way they seem to bunch up when you wear them enforces this.

Mine are black inside too, is that a cotton inside that is white like that?




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[*] posted on 3-9-2013 at 13:44


I ordered 80g of iodine crystals from China. It was about $30. (Do you guys know of a cheaper source?)

I also went to an army-navy store and got some military chemical gloves, but they are too small. :(
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[*] posted on 3-9-2013 at 13:52


lol, mine are a little too big.

thats about right for elemental I2, KI is a bit cheaper




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[*] posted on 3-9-2013 at 21:50


Anyone know a good brand for pure TCCA tablets or granules in the UK? Stabilized sodium dichloro- something seems more prevalent?
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[*] posted on 3-9-2013 at 22:26


Quote: Originally posted by sonogashira  
Anyone know a good brand for pure TCCA tablets or granules in the UK? Stabilized sodium dichloro- something seems more prevalent?


Sodium Dichloroisocyanurate dihydrate? If you're just generating chlorine gas, it should behave similarly to TCCA, probably reacting more readily and wasting an eq of HCl though. If TCCA is necessary for your purposes, I think that leading Cl2 into a solution of NaDCCA will drop TCCA as a solid. If it's not soluble enough or you lose too much that way, stirring a slurry of powdered NaDCCA in water while adding chlorine until it stops absorbing it should give roughly the same result.

"stabilized" is often thrown in when naming cyanuric acid derivatives for pool use because the cyanuric acid helps keep "chlorine" levels stable in the water.

Here in the US, pool chlorination products generally come as such when you read the label:

"Quick dissolving shock and chlorinating granules"
-Sodium dichloroisocyanurate dihydrate
-Calcium Hypochlorite. Rarely above 60%, remainder is probably calcium hydroxide as stabilizer.

"stabilized pool chlorinator tabs"
-almost always TCCA, sometimes with added clarifying agent or algecide like CuSO4. Some brands have unlisted filler of some sort to bring content down to ~90%. Brands I look for list 99%.

"liquid pool chlorinator"
-10% NaOCl

"pool chlorine stabilizer"
-Lists cyanuric acid as only ingredient but it almost surely recycled waste from NaDCCA and TCCA manufacture. I gassed myself with Cl2 by accident upon adding HCl. Product seems to be a mix of partly chlorinated cyanuric acids.

I've had to store shop to find 99% TCCA tabs. some only carry the blended ~90% ones. Some only have NaDCCA products. An 8oz tab goes for like $3 here, sold singularly. They also sell large bulk buckets at significant discount.




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[*] posted on 3-9-2013 at 23:34


Thanks for the information. Eventually found some.

[Edited on 4-9-2013 by sonogashira]
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[*] posted on 4-9-2013 at 01:00


Quote: Originally posted by UnintentionalChaos  

"pool chlorine stabilizer"
-Lists cyanuric acid as only ingredient but it almost surely recycled waste from NaDCCA and TCCA manufacture. I gassed myself with Cl2 by accident upon adding HCl. Product seems to be a mix of partly chlorinated cyanuric acids.

This can very easily be converted to nice and pure crystalline cyanuric acid. Just add the finely ground solid to dilute HCl (10% or so is OK) and boil the liquid until all of the solid has dissolved. It dissolves in hot water quite well. During the boiling process all chlorine is boiled off and what remains is an odorless liquid. If not all of it dissolves in the dilute acid, then add a little more water and bring to a boil again. Keep adding water till all of it dissolves.
Next, allow to cool down. Nice crystals of cyanuric acid will form. These crystals then can be recrystallized another time from an as little as possible amount of boiling hot water. This gives a pure product.

[Edited on 4-9-13 by woelen]




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[*] posted on 4-9-2013 at 17:18


Not really a chemical, but I just won a Welch 1400 vacuum pump on eBay for about $80! Hopefully it will work well for me. It seemed almost new from the pictures...



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[*] posted on 4-9-2013 at 20:32


Quote: Originally posted by woelen  
Quote: Originally posted by UnintentionalChaos  

"pool chlorine stabilizer"
-Lists cyanuric acid as only ingredient but it almost surely recycled waste from NaDCCA and TCCA manufacture. I gassed myself with Cl2 by accident upon adding HCl. Product seems to be a mix of partly chlorinated cyanuric acids.

This can very easily be converted to nice and pure crystalline cyanuric acid. Just add the finely ground solid to dilute HCl (10% or so is OK) and boil the liquid until all of the solid has dissolved. It dissolves in hot water quite well. During the boiling process all chlorine is boiled off and what remains is an odorless liquid. If not all of it dissolves in the dilute acid, then add a little more water and bring to a boil again. Keep adding water till all of it dissolves.
Next, allow to cool down. Nice crystals of cyanuric acid will form. These crystals then can be recrystallized another time from an as little as possible amount of boiling hot water. This gives a pure product.

[Edited on 4-9-13 by woelen]


Yeah, after the Cl2 was gone, this is what I did. As it turns out, cyanuric acid does form a dihydrate, but it dehydrates at a moderate temperature, so heating the crystals to constant weight is probably advisable if you're going to do anything stoichiometric with them.




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[*] posted on 14-9-2013 at 16:35


Not quite a chemical order, but the glassware is nice!
First up, a high-density polypropylene aspirator pump:



Next, 144 of these ampoules (1 shown outside):



A closeup of 1 ampoule. These things are about 3" long, and are 1mL ampoules.



I'm going to go promptly put as many element samples in these as possible...




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[*] posted on 15-9-2013 at 23:35


2.25kg KHP Analytical Grade
2.5kg of NaOH Analytical Grade

Time to make some secondary standard for some fun titrations! :)
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[*] posted on 18-9-2013 at 12:50


Formic acid, toluene and calcium oxide... Nothing terribly exciting but a package at the door is always fun ;)
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[*] posted on 20-9-2013 at 15:52


500ml Tert butyl alcohol (mostly for T-Bu inorganic esters and for the chloride)
500g sodium sulfite
500ml cyclohexane (to make cyclohexanol)
500g sulphur
500g anh. sodium acetate ( to make acetic anhydride with the sulphur using chlorine)
500g potassium bromide
100g acetamide




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