Sciencemadness Discussion Board - Ceramic chemistry ware.

Ceramic chemistry ware.

Sedit - 12-1-2011 at 08:34

Over the past couple days I have been thinking alot about the construction of ceramic ware for resale and I wanted to get everyones take on if it would be worth my time and money to begin such a project.

I have extensive experiance in making ceramics taking non credit college courses in the past and taking part in a variety of art shows to show off my sculptures which is something my skills far exceed most in. Making such materials is well with in my abilitys without a doubt. I also will reserve the right for future applications such as creating specialty materials such as high Silica carbide ceramics for use in high temperature Microwave reaction as well as other special effects I would be able to achieve.

I'v been considering starting with the basics such as creating crucibles, test tubes, mortar pestles and various diameter tubing, all out of high alumina porcelain. These are normally rated at temperatures of 1700 degrees C and up with a low thermal expansion coefficient which over time I would be able to tweek the formula and decrease even more.

My main question is would there be a market for such a thing and if so would any of you be interested in buying equipment like this for use in muffle furnaces and other high temperature reactions such as SO3 production or Phosphorus synthesis. If so, what would you all, as home chemist, like to see created?

Lambda-Eyde - 12-1-2011 at 09:28

You won't profit from this if you only make normal ceramic labware like crucibles and mortars. If you make some special, niche items and take custom orders, it might be viable.

One idea for you: http://www.microwavekiln.com/

Sedit - 12-1-2011 at 10:42

Im positive that if people buy them I will profit but things like the microkiln are no doubt on my mind however I do not know if they own patent rights for such a thing.

Sedit - 12-1-2011 at 13:48

Also keep in mind I would more then likely be well capable of making custom designs if needed. I want to make some retorts for my own personal use and thats where I started to get the idea from in the first place, as I researched various sites for ceramic chemistry ware I seen the potential to put a skill I have to use for a change.

Also keep in mind that by buying things you will help a starving home chemist on his way to greater things

. I think if it pans out well and I indeed start making quality materials that people want I would be more then happy to trade for glasswares and chemicals.

I would like some ideas for specialty ceramic materials. High alumina is the main goal right now and like stated above SiC ceramics are within reach. Borosilicate ceramics will be a possibilty as well since I have a goal of reducing the thermal expansion down to the lowest factor possible. Once I start to get materials I would like to experiment with super conducting magnets also.

watson.fawkes - 13-1-2011 at 06:06

Quote: Originally posted by Sedit

I would like some ideas for specialty ceramic materials. High alumina is the main goal right now and like stated above SiC ceramics are within reach.

High alumina materials require the not-cheapest sorts of heating elements for their kilns. Do look into what it takes to reach appropriate sintering temperatures; it's more that Kanthal resistance wire can do, at least with decent lifetimes.

Sedit - 13-1-2011 at 06:46

I have taken this in account already and have noticed commercial ware is normally glazed more then likely to avoid the high cost a comercial application would normally have to deal with in order to reach vitrification temperatures. I have built small gas kilns in the past and I have about 4 different freinds that rent out there very large(walk in size) high temperature gas kilns out for use so reaching the 2000 degrees C, give or take, in order to sinter the entire form is not a problem.

peach - 13-1-2011 at 07:15

I doubt they own a patent on the idea of microwave heating.

If there are patents on it, it'll be for the precise mixes for absorbing microwaves and things like that.

Watson is, as usual, correct that high alumina is usually used for lining SiC ovens, and better, meaning that making things with it is going to be serious pain.

In fact, the liners for furnaces (I think from looking at my iron ladle lining bricks) are more like small lumps and grit mixed with a binder and then compressed into bricks, as opposed to truly glazed solids (which is what you'd need for chemistry, or it'll be porous).

I have also spent a gigantic amount of time wondering, can I make flasks and other bits of equipment in some easier and cheaper way to help spread the awesomeness of science. Including some very odd ideas (like cutting the components from solid blocks using water jets, or machining them from PTFE).

The answer thus far is.... no. Blown is the way. And boro or quartz.

Edit: Saw you'd replied. Remember that if the glaze melts below the point of the bulk material, it may be defeating the point to use the bulk material. People will also likely complain about it being opaque, so it depends what you're thinking of making.

[Edited on 13-1-2011 by peach]

Sedit - 13-1-2011 at 07:26

Opaqueness is impossible to do away with, trust me on that one because between my work and the help of my teacher we tryed to get the clearest most light transparent form of Porceline we could achive accomplished thry the use of very pure Kaoline with fluxes such as Lithium carbonate and potassium feldspares was still far from transparent. This was due to the unavoidable microbubbles always present in ceramics.

Make no mistake about it Peach ceramics have already estabilished themselfs in chemistry and although flask themselfs are not the greatest ideas for transparency reasons you already stated retort variations would no doubt be very useful to a number of us for production of high temperature products.

Attached is just one of the catalogs for such line of products although I would wish to expand on there selection a bit if everything worked out. Im going to head out now and go out to my supplier to get an idea of what materials I have to work with and prices right now.

[edit]
Sorry forgot to attach the file

[Edited on 13-1-2011 by Sedit]

Attachment: AdValue_brochure2010.pdf (556kB)
This file has been downloaded 669 times

peach - 13-1-2011 at 08:08

Well we seem to have discovered a little more about sedit today, that he is knowledgeably potty.

You clearly know more about this than I, and I agree that a retort made from something more heat resistant, but costing less than blown quartz, would be a great thing.

I sez, pursue this idea.

In fact, I'd make a retort the first thing you try making, as I expect quite a few people here may want one (e.g. the hot sodium method).

Eclectic - 13-1-2011 at 15:46

Sedit, Can you make large pieces? maybe 1-2 cubic feet? I'd love to have what would be basically chimney liner ceramic tile, but made with a mullite in cordierite matrix blend....Talc, Edgar's plastic kaolin, alumina...

This would be for use as furnace muffles, smaller ones for microwave heated retorts and furnaces.

[Edited on 1-13-2011 by Eclectic]

Sedit - 13-1-2011 at 16:07

I don't see why not since my kiln has more then enough capacity for such a thing although IIRC(its been years since I fired it up) its upper limits in temperature where around 1500 degrees C and that was before I abused the hell out of the elements experimenting with crystal glazes which produce awsome looking crystals of Zinc silicate on the surface of the ceramics. These require long soak periods of around 3 -4 hours at peak temperature and a long slow cool down to grow the crystals so needless to say my elements are not what they use to be and I am not 100% sure the temperatures needed to fire cordierite, The mullite however will be a staple in the construction of most things I want to produce because porcelain has a serious srinkage problem and adding prefired and powdered mullite to the clay allows me to produce a higher quality material that wont suffer from the cracking and thermal stresses that porcelain has.

I attempted to contact my supplier today to get some ideas of what my best route would be and went to speak with my old teacher who also was not around so hopefully by the end of the weekend I will have some materials to work with and a little more direction as to what I need in order to accomplish my goals.

However the basic answer to your question is yes. My kiln has a capacity of around 2.5*3 feet or so but im not 100% sure it will handle the desired temperatures so if I need to rent a kiln then the temperatures and size is of no issue what so ever since I have seen them produce things like 200liter pots from there kilns and being gas fired they can reach very high temperatures.

Eclectic - 13-1-2011 at 16:18

I think adding talc to the body to get 30-50% cordierite would help with sintering and consolidation to minimize porosity. Service temp would be plenty high for anything heated with Kanthal A1. Cordierite has lower melting point than mullite, and even lower thermal expansion.

[Edited on 1-14-2011 by Eclectic]

Sedit - 13-1-2011 at 16:32

I think instead of getting into some complex formulation for your uses general everyday Fireclay would be more then enough. Given its fusion temperature of <1600C Im considering making some test tiles out of this and it may do away with my need for blending various clays and chemicals by just using a commercial clay for most of the products. Only for Mortar pestles and Tubing where there would be a fear of contamination would I really concern myself with precise blending.

My main concern since its one of the few areas im slightly lacking in is gathering a complete understanding of how to control thermal stress. This is a must because if not people would have to wait for hours for there furnaces to slowly heat to avoid cracking the tube. If ya'll are anything like me I want that think to kick up in temperature as fast as possible and that all in all is my main goal at the moment. Fireclay seems like my best bet.

Eclectic - 13-1-2011 at 16:50

yup....Cordierite is almost totally impervious to thermal stress....it's just a matter of adding enough powdered talc to the body to give some magnesium.

http://www.springerlink.com/content/h3551x72u5216x41/

http://www.science.cmu.ac.th/journal-science/351_02PreparaPh...

http://www.google.com/search?q=cordierite+mullite+body&i...

fficial&client=firefox-a

[Edited on 1-14-2011 by Eclectic]

Sedit - 13-1-2011 at 17:30

Do you have access to the springerlink Eclectic? Is so could you please post it?

Eclectic - 13-1-2011 at 18:12

No, but her is a google search that turns up more interesting links for formulating bodies using talc:

http://www.google.com/search?q=cordierite+mullite+body&i...

fficial&client=firefox-a#sclient=psy&hl=en&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US%3Aofficial&q=cordierite+mullite+body+talc& aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=cordierite+mullite+body+talc&pbx=1&fp=fd0f73886609171d

peach - 14-1-2011 at 03:16

Can you imagine how famous you'd be if you made a little retort that could make sodium or phosphorus in the kitchen microwave?

You'd be banging hollywood by the end of the week and rolling cigars with money.

[Edited on 14-1-2011 by peach]

anotheronebitesthedust - 14-1-2011 at 16:33

I always wanted a 4000ml tabletop buchner funnel. It seems like such a simple design and yet they sell for $1000-$2000.

It would be cool if you could make some 45/50 and 24/40 jointed vacuum buchner funnels.

Gon - 14-1-2011 at 20:58

I think that you could consult some of the archaic chemistry textbooks (like the ones we have in the SM library) and look at some of the older heating appliances and apparatus that have been made obsolete today, but may be of interest to amateurs with limited budgets.

Stuff like crucible furnaces that use propane and forced air, or tube furnaces that are designed to use multiple bunsen burners.

There are techniques that have been used for centuries (and happen to be the fundamentals for the entire mining industry) that are simply out of reach for experimenters because they cannot do a whole lot with a porcelain triangle and a ring stand.

Have you, or anyone you know, made iron from ore? It is an technique that is done regularly by prospectors and really should be something familiar to schoolchildren.

It is a niche market, Sedit, but one that could be of interest to you given the tools and skills that you have.

peach - 15-1-2011 at 03:03

I have a 15l buchner flask, and no funnel for it. I could use it as a flower vase in the meantime I guess.

ScienceSquirrel - 15-1-2011 at 05:58

Quote: Originally posted by peach

I have a 15l buchner flask, and no funnel for it. I could use it as a flower vase in the meantime I guess.

You could make a novelty bottle garden out of it. It would look nice in the corner of the lab

ldanielrosa - 16-1-2011 at 18:49

A microwave crucible for melting metal would be nice. This could involve a slew of related hardware:

a larger microwave transparent pot to hold the crucible and some thermal insulator

flask (cope and drag) for preheating or even melting right in the sprue!

reusable mold that can be melted in directly to consolidate scrap metals into uniform pieces (coin blanks, cubes, rods)

peach - 17-1-2011 at 02:59

You could look into the Fuseworks microwave kiln for that.

I think they're about $99 and come as a little kit.

<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/c-W9V3D9WYY?fs=1&hl=en_GB&color1=0x5d1719&color2=0xcd311b"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/c-W9V3D9WYY?fs=1&hl=en_GB&color1=0x5d1719&color2=0xcd311b" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>

Sedit - 18-1-2011 at 17:58

@Eclectic
I have requested the paper you linked to so I will hopefully be able to look thru it in the next few days.

Quote: Originally posted by anotheronebitesthedust

I always wanted a 4000ml tabletop buchner funnel. It seems like such a simple design and yet they sell for $1000-$2000.
It would be cool if you could make some 45/50 and 24/40 jointed vacuum buchner funnels.

I was thinking about this earlier matter of fact although I can't say I thought about one that large it does seem like it would be a good thing to make. Are you sure on that price range? That seems pretty high. I think with a little work that something like a Buchner funnel would sell ok on a site like Ebay or what not so its no doubt within the realm of possibility.

Quote: Originally posted by Gon

I think that you could consult some of the archaic chemistry textbooks (like the ones we have in the SM library) and look at some of the older heating appliances and apparatus that have been made obsolete today, but may be of interest to amateurs with limited budgets.

Stuff like crucible furnaces that use propane and forced air, or tube furnaces that are designed to use multiple bunsen burners.

There are techniques that have been used for centuries (and happen to be the fundamentals for the entire mining industry) that are simply out of reach for experimenters because they cannot do a whole lot with a porcelain triangle and a ring stand.

Have you, or anyone you know, made iron from ore? It is an technique that is done regularly by prospectors and really should be something familiar to schoolchildren.

It is a niche market, Sedit, but one that could be of interest to you given the tools and skills that you have.

I couldn't agree more Gon. A good example of various things to make would be in old chemistry books and even further to older alchemical text since Im sure much of there equipment was ceramic in the first place. One prime example would be a book I have by Antoine Lavoisier that has many detailed pictures of equipment in the appendex that would be useful.

There are many niche markets within this area but I also think there are some wide spread applications that could sell enough to keep a slow flow income in the mean time like Mortar pestles, crucibles, and Buchner funnels like Anotheronebites talked about.

I do have a design concern that im running thru my head right now on how to make a retort as cheeply as possible since there is good odds that it would be a use once type of thing due to slag. Disconnection of the top and bottom of a retort would work but when working with ceramics there is a level of shrinkage on firing and in order to get a good fit the top and bottom of vessles should be fired together in place so that they shrink at the same rate keeping a tight fit. Making the top and bottoms seperated would make it harder to obtain a good fit but im relatively confident with some sort of form I should be able to make reproduceable sized fits between top and bottoms of retort pieces meaning one would only have to rebuy the bottom slag destroyed part.

I have decided for the most part since its tax time to wait on fully attacking this project since I feel its something that deserves to be done right and I would be able to use a small portion of my tax money to buy materials for this. I am however actively working on a very small kiln perhaps with a 1ft square area or so in order to quickly and cheeply produce test tiles of materials. It consist of nothing more then fiberglass soaked in wet kaoline and formed into a cylinder with a bottom portion having an electric oven element on the bottom. A simular design worked in the past in order to achive high enough firing temperature with ease so a smaller version of it would be helpful. I will more then likely post plans if I get time. It won't be able to vitrify the Pieces but it will be able to turn it to mullite without a problem.

Here is a couple of notes I have made on various low thermal expansion materials to work with. If you have any information on them feel free to add. I would like to know the composition of astrositall but Im having trouble finding it. For now mullite with is a product of firing Kaoline is the main focus but im still researching what I can.

coefficient of thermal expansion = expansion / change in temperature

Notes:
Thermal expansion generally decreases with increasing bond energy
Harder materials are more likely to have lower thermal expansion.
Thermal expansion of glasses is higher compared crystals[1]

References:
[1] A.K. Varshneya. Fundamentals of inorganic glasses. Society of Glass Technology, Sheffield, 682p. (2006).

Materials of low expansion:

MACOR is a machineable glass-ceramic

46% silica (SiO2)
17% magnesium (MgO)
16% aluminium oxide (Al2O3)
10% potassium (K2O)
7% boron (B2O3)
4% fluorine (F)

Sitall CO-115M (Astrositall)
Expansion = 0±1.5 x 10-7/°C in the temperature range -60 to 60°C

Pyrex

54% oxygen,
38% silicon,
4% boron,
3% sodium,
1% aluminium
less than 1% potassium.

Alumina
Coefficient of Thermal Expansion = 8.4

Sialon
Silicon Nitride and small percentage of alumina oxide.
Coefficient of Thermal Expansion = 3

Mullite( 3Al2O3•2SiO2)
The principle product of fired Kaoline
Coefficient of Thermal Expansion = 5.4

Aluminum Nitride
Coefficient of Thermal Expansion = 4.5

not_important - 18-1-2011 at 19:06

Quote: Originally posted by Sedit

....

I do have a design concern that im running thru my head right now on how to make a retort as cheeply as possible since there is good odds that it would be a use once type of thing due to slag. Disconnection of the top and bottom of a retort would work but when working with ceramics there is a level of shrinkage on firing and in order to get a good fit the top and bottom of vessles should be fired together in place so that they shrink at the same rate keeping a tight fit. Making the top and bottoms seperated would make it harder to obtain a good fit but im relatively confident with some sort of form I should be able to make reproduceable sized fits between top and bottoms of retort pieces meaning one would only have to rebuy the bottom slag destroyed part
....

A design that worked for us in the past was to have a flange on the lower section of the container (retort) similar to a pipe flange, and a slightly wider flange on the upper section, plus a slight lip that helps it stay centered on the lower. Fired face down, with a hifire round prop under the upper one to retain the lip, and plenty of zircon/Al(OH)3 based kiln wash. After firing drizzle some SiC and water onto the lower section's flange, place the upper onto it, and rotate away. Rinse and repeat until a good fit, then repeat with a finer grade of SiC. The flanges give lots of contact area without issues of thermal expansion leading to frozen connections.

ldanielrosa - 19-1-2011 at 01:44

Would a two part, bolt together retort with a recess for a silicone O-ring be of any use? The bolts needn't put much mechanical stress on the ceramics- just finger tight with all external hardware. If the thermal conductivity is low enough the O-ring would be the same temperature as the vapor.

Sedit - 26-1-2011 at 12:41

I finished my microkiln last night and for the first time got it up to full power since the first couple firings where just to remove latent water. I was impressed that such a simple design allowed me to reach in excess of 1800 degrees F. I fired a small crucible I made in it then used that to melt Aluminum with a propane torch just as a test. Sadly the crucible cracked but this has more to do with the state of the clay when I made the crucible. It was just quick and dirty and I never completely mixed the clay so the cracks that appeared where already there before I even fired it and they just reappeared after the torch hit it. The good parts of the crucible stood up to a direct attack from the torch with ease even though it was bitter cold to start with so this is a very good sign even though I used shitty clay to start with.

I also used my lil' kiln to glaze a small plate I made some time back and was impressed by the quality of the firing.

I will soon post pictures and instructions on my kiln since its something that everyone can make since the heating element is nothing more then an old electric stove element, some rarefactory cement which I can show how to make, and an old abestos pipe liner for the body of the kiln.

Im working on a retort out of pipe fittings and later tonight im going to use it to make White phosphorus. Wish me luck.

not_important - 26-1-2011 at 14:57

Quote: Originally posted by ldanielrosa

Would a two part, bolt together retort with a recess for a silicone O-ring be of any use? The bolts needn't put much mechanical stress on the ceramics- just finger tight with all external hardware. If the thermal conductivity is low enough the O-ring would be the same temperature as the vapor.

Can't get it very hot, silicones generally are for below 300 C and many of the processes people want to do run 500 C on up.

We used thick slabs of castable insulation as standoffs for homebrew C-clamps with springs applying force to the standoffs. That gave the clamping enough 'give' to avoid stressing the lips, and avoid holes in the rims as well. You can add lightweight insulating shells as shields against thermal radiation from the vessel for the clamps; useful if things are really toasty.

Sedit - 26-1-2011 at 15:33

I have something to add and even though I should add it in the thread I hope to start soon on the contruction of my kiln I noticed that the temperature rose very quickly after I opened the lid for a few seconds, maybe 30 or so in all. At that point it stalled around 600 degrees C so I opened it in order to see inside and quickly afterwards the temperature shot up to 900 degrees C. Im not 100% sure why this is and I am going to test it again because my kiln is almost at 600 degrees again so im going to let it stall there for about 1 hour, if it decides to do so that is, and then open it to see if I get the same effect.

It may be coincidence however because the Cal-Coat that I made the insulation out of says that its rated for 600 degrees C, which I took as the theoretical limit of my kiln, so I think it may be reacting in someway at that temperature and it holds there until the insulation is fired at which point it stops absorbing the heat and allowed it to proceed to a higher temperature.

Sedit - 12-2-2011 at 21:25

Im still working on all of this folks don't count me out. I just purchased a new kiln, a smaller one, yesterday and I am going to pick up the alumina, kaoline, silica ect... next weekend at the latest.

I have to learn new skills since Im a sculptor and im use to working clay free hand yet this is requiring that I use molds and forms to work on else there will not be consistancy to the work. So now I have to learn to work in the negative and practice making plaster and concrete molds.

Its touch and go at the moment but going ok non the lest.

However I wanted to ask people. On a little research I seen that many tube furnaces are around $1000 and up. If I where able to offer them for maybe around $500 would anyone be interested?

Im making one myself right now and I will be firing the center tube tommorow morning. Its diameter is about an inch and a half but thats all on a whim and I could customize things with ease.

Morgan - 17-2-2011 at 22:27

I have several meter lengths of wave guide fused quartz made by Heraeus 25mm X 19mm and have often wondered how/where to melt it and shape it for some experiments. I don't have a hydrogen/oxygen torch. It was for making fiber optic cable. Quartz has a very low thermal expansion coefficient and the beach sand where I live is almost pure quartz too. Thin sheets of red hot quartz can be dipped in water without cracking. The quartz for these tubes was mined in Madagascar.
Quartz has a lower melting point than Al2O3 but it has some advantages.
http://www.heraeus-quarzglas.com/en/quarzglas/thermalpropert...
The internet really is a series of tubes. ha
If you watch this video, it shows the process of making fiber optic cable, some good food for thought.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=llI8Mf_faVo
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_quartz

Sedit - 18-2-2011 at 05:47

Im not 100% sure on an industrial scale how they do it but ways of fusing quarts involve getting really fine silica flour and adding a binder to it like CMC or gum acacia to assist in its binding. You can cast it into a mold at this point and when fired it shrinks and fuses into crystal. This is the process a glass artist told me about. When fusing it you don't need to really liquify it completely only sinter it enough that it fuses with the fine particals next to it.

Morgan - 18-2-2011 at 06:34

Do you happen to know the basic formula for the material used in spark plugs? Is it a blend of SiO2 and Al2O3 with other ingredients? It's so hard my grinder won't touch it and neither a bi-metal hacksaw blade. It seems like sapphire.
I have a diamond saw that I cut my quartz tubing with.

Morgan - 18-2-2011 at 06:54

Here's how they made fused quartz in 1924. Kind of thought provoking.
"The quartz is made in specially constructed, vat-like, electric furnaces operating at times in a vacuum, and at other times under a pressure of 1,100 to 3,000 pounds of nitrogen to the square inch, or more than a million pounds on the top of the furnace. If the pressure were unloosed it would have the effect of a high-explosive bomb. The quartz is forced downward through the crucible' by a weight, and cut into tubes as it emerges. The product is to the eye a beautifully fine, clear, color- less substance."
http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,718367-1,00...

Sedit - 18-2-2011 at 07:57

Sapphire is nothing more then Alumina doped with things like Chromium and Titanium so odds are you just have either fused Alumina on the spark plug or a very high Alumina porceline. Given that your grinder is also Alumina it would cut into it just very very slowly.

Melgar - 18-2-2011 at 08:17

A while back I was trying to design an electric crucible that could melt and electrolyze salts. It would have a lid to keep oxygen from reaching the metal, and a tube that would allow collection of the chlorine/bromine vapor or whatever came off that electrode. Cheap easy access to alkali metals and halogens would be pretty awesome.

Morgan - 18-2-2011 at 08:56

Yea, it's kind of funny how if it's red they call it a ruby and all the other colors are sapphires. I have a ruby rod I bought on eBay but the ends aren't polished. Minerology is an interesting field too. There're all sorts of combinations/blends found in nature.
Have you ever melted Al2O3 and gotten a clear material? I think it's pretty hard to do.
I just now took a Motocraft spark plug and pressed it up against the edge of my 6 inch grinding wheel for several seconds. It's ever so slightly abraded looking at it under an 8 inch lens. It's hard stuff. Some very old spark plugs are pink containing/to indicate beryllium oxide, you wouldn't want to grind those. I read some microwave ovens have beryllium oxide insulators so if you fiddle with ceramics, make sure you aren't inhaling dust from these sources.
Here's some various ways fused quartz and fused silica are made. The synthetic fused silica seems challenging. ha
"Fused quartz and fused silica are types of glass containing primarily silica in amorphous (non-crystalline) form. They are manufactured using several different processes."

"Fused quartz is made by melting high-purity naturally occurring quartz crystal at around 2000°C using either an electrically heated furnace (electrically fused) or a gas/oxygen-fuelled furnace (flame fused). Fused quartz is normally transparent."

"Fused quartz can also form naturally. The naturally occurring form of fused quartz is usually referrred to as Metaquartzite and is formed under metamorphic conditions. Due to increased heat the crystals within the quartz become fused together."

"Fused silica is produced using high purity silica sand as the feedstock, and is normally melted using an electric furnace, resulting in a material that is translucent or opaque. (This opacity is caused by very small air bubbles trapped within the material.)"

"Synthetic fused silica is made from a silicon-rich chemical precursor usually using a continuous flame hydrolysis process which involves chemical gasification of silicon, oxidation of this gas to silicon dioxide, and thermal fusion of the resulting dust (although there are alternative processes). This results in a transparent glass with an ultra-high purity and improved optical transmission in the deep ultraviolet. One common method involves adding silicon tetrachloride to a hydrogen-oxygen flame, however use of this precursor results in environmentally unfriendly by-products including chlorine and hydrochloric acid. To eliminate these by-products, new processes have been developed using an alternative feedstock, which has also resulted in a higher purity fused silica with further improved deep ultraviolet transmission."
http://www.websters-online-dictionary.org/definitions/Fused+...

http://www.azom.com/Details.asp?ArticleID=263

[Edited on 18-2-2011 by Morgan]

Morgan - 19-2-2011 at 16:27

"Documented attempts to make rubies date to the experiments of Marc A. Gaudin, a French chemist who produced some synthetic rubies beginning in 1837. They were not of any value as gems, however, because they became opaque as they cooled. After 30 years of experimenting he gave up, admitting defeat in the published notes of his final ruby experiments."
"There are several processes used to create synthetic rubies. Verneuil's flame fusion and Czochralski's crystal pulling are the most commonly used melt techniques, while flux growth and hydrothermal growth are the most popular versions of solution processes."
http://www.madehow.com/Volume-4/Synthetic-Ruby.html

[Edited on 20-2-2011 by Morgan]

Sedit - 9-3-2011 at 20:46

Its time to get down to business folks, materials here, skills have been brought back to par and im as ready as ever, so I have a few questions to ask before going on to ensure the quality is worth being marketed in anyway.

First off is the big one IMO, what would be the best thickness for crucibles and ceramic tubing? The thinner the better since it helps avoid thermal shock and cracking yet you also would want there to be strength so its a balancing act between the two. Does anyone have a commercial crucible, preferably broken so that they could measure the thickness. I need to know this because it will determine the thickness of the slip measured with a hygrometer and the amount of time the slip sits in the molds. Working with these two factors I could with ease reproduce constant values for the thickness of the ware.

Second of all, aside from crucibles and test tube/tubing what other specialty items should I start designing molds for? Funnels is a no brainer for me because I want some for myself yet I would like other suggestions as well.

Thanks for your imput
~Sedit