Fulmen - 25-12-2020 at 09:54
Can anybody help me with wiring this motor? It came out of an old IKA hotplate/stirrer.
It has 3 wires with very different readings:
AC inductance (120hz) and DC resistance:
1/2: 4.1H / 1.5k
2/3: 1.5H / 0.4k
3/1: 5.5H / 1.9k
[Edited on 25-12-20 by Fulmen]
itsallgoodjames - 25-12-2020 at 14:21
The motor in the picture is an induction motor, obviously intended to be used with single phase AC. As you can see, it's rated for two hundred and
twenty volts at fifty hertz. The 1 microfarad capacitor listed is the value for the capacitor in the provided diagram. In the diagram, a is wire 2,
b is either 1 or 3, and c is the opposite of b. if you wire it up according to the diagram with the appropriate capacitor, it should be fairly easy
to drive.
Fulmen - 25-12-2020 at 14:38
Ok, so I'm making some headway. Stay with me here...
First I looked up the serial (ebm m4e060-ca01-08) which gave me a dead match from www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de. Luckily the preview listed the following excerpt:
"Ich biete hier 4x 220V Außenläufermotoren an. Typ: ebm m4e060-ca01-08 Die dazu gehörigen". Now that has to be the same motor, right? What are the
odds?
So I look up "außenläufermotor", which gives me the translation "Permanent magnet Synchronous motor (PMSM)". Now we're getting somewhere, eh?
Fulmen - 25-12-2020 at 14:52
Thanks, itsallgoodjames. I forgot to mention that it's an "outrunner", don't know if that matters.
But I guess it's just a plain synchronous motor, first time I've had to deal with them so take it slow. I'm more of a mechanics guy. The plan is to
rewire the hotplate using an arduino controller. Shouldn't be harder than an optoisolator and a suitable triac for the AC. Temp sensor will be a
ready-made k-element shield, the motor has a slotted ring yjat can be read with an optical reader.
Fulmen - 26-12-2020 at 09:21
All good. The motor runs fine with a 0.9uF cap, guess I have to shop some components to finish the job. Thanks for the help, james.
Fulmen - 27-12-2020 at 03:34
This is the power board, housing the 5V PSU for the arduino and the triacs. The arduino and K-element shields will go on a separate board.
And yes, I see the mistakes :-)
[Edited on 27-12-20 by Fulmen]