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Author: Subject: The short questions thread (2)
not_important
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[*] posted on 28-5-2009 at 19:58


Iron stains want complexing and/or reducing conditions to remove. Oxalic acid usually does the job, citric may do it while a mix of oxalic and citric has always worked for me although fairly long treatment with a strong solution of them may be needed.

Oxidisers - chlorine bleach, peroxides - just make the stains work by pushing more iron into the red-brown Fe(III) state. Reducing agents drop it back to the pale green Fe(II), complexing agents and mild acids can remove that much more easily than the Fe(III).


Was the meat well cooked? If so you may experience digestive upsets from the decomposition productions - especially the diamines - but likely nothing worse. Et a lot of active culture yogurt over a number of hours, that can help.

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[*] posted on 28-5-2009 at 20:14


Thanks I never really considered reducing it I was always looking for a more brute force method. Ill give a mix of Oxalic and citric a try. Soak some smaller items overnight and see what I can get.



Yeh it was cooked very well and simmered over an 45 minutes after that while the water was boiling so bacteria should be no problem but I do feel slightly upset to the stomach nothing major though. Its my grandfather Im more concerned about because hes almost 90 and he loves my cooking so much he ate a plate and a half before we found it to not be so good and after we told him he just shrugged it off and finished eating :D. Cooking is like easy organic chemistry but sadly I think I contaminated this reaction and the flask is more then likely gonna want to clean it self out tommorow :P





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[*] posted on 28-5-2009 at 20:26


Again, yogurt and fresh ginger can help reduce the upset if there's wasn't too large amount of decay products.
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[*] posted on 28-5-2009 at 20:39


Fresh out of yogurt, with three kids that don't last more then a few hours when I get it although if it persist tommorow I will definitly go out and get some. I don't think it was two bad because I have a pretty good nose for it but I was just really busy with company over this time to pay close enough attention. Just a few minor knots in the belly but nothing major and its been a few hours now but like I said before its the 90 year old im concerned about since he ate alot and at the age of 90 the digestive system isn't the greatest as it is. If I find he has problems tonight I will run out no matter what time to get him something to help. I do have alot of different fresh mint growing which may aid in speeding the digestive system similar to ginger so that may be a quick option if really needed.

Thanks for the help N_I always a pleasure.





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[*] posted on 29-5-2009 at 02:55


Let's see if i got this right.
I thought of concentrating my nitric acid by using the double volume of sulfuric acid.
I don't have access to a vacuum generator so I am doing without ( i know more decomposition etc).

Well as for my question : would it be useful to use a vigreux collom?

-I think an advantage would be that the product has a much higher concentration.

-The downside would be that there would be more decomposition because of the relative longer exposure to higher temp.

When one takes in account that without it a vigreux a second destilation would be needed.
Maybe even with a second time is needed.
I would go for a vigreux.

Maybe there are factors I am not considering..
Anyone?

[Edited on 29-5-2009 by User]




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DJF90
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[*] posted on 29-5-2009 at 07:42


Distilling with a large excess of the sulfuric acid (98%) should give you nitric acid in the 90%+ range (so long as you start with conc. nitric acid - about 70%). Dont use a vigreux as this is more troublesome than helpful. If you need the acid to be more concentrated then use a vacuum. Be careful when you mix the acids (add the sulfuric to the nitric - this is more "water-like") There are plenty of threads about concentrating nitric acid over on E&W, but I'm sure you'll find some here too if you UTFSE.
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[*] posted on 30-5-2009 at 11:51


My quick question:
What's the [Ag(CN)2]- ion called? It's analagous to the dicyanaurate (I) ion ([Au(CN)2]-), but I don't know what would replace the "aur" part of the name?
dicyanargate (I) maybe?
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[*] posted on 30-5-2009 at 13:22


[Ag(CN)2]- is called dicyanargentate(I) according to http://www2.ucdsb.on.ca/tiss/stretton/CHEM2/solubil7.htm
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[*] posted on 30-5-2009 at 15:44


Quote: Originally posted by entropy51  
[Ag(CN)2]- is called dicyanargentate(I) according to http://www2.ucdsb.on.ca/tiss/stretton/CHEM2/solubil7.htm


Ah right, thanks :)
Just realised how stupid I was asking here though, rather than googling "Ag(CN)2- name" ah well..
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[*] posted on 31-5-2009 at 14:50


I have noted an inability to "salt out" 91% isopropanol. Added salt does not induce formation of layers, even after a few days of standing. Is this because 91% is simply too concentrated to give up additional water by saturation w/ salt?
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[*] posted on 31-5-2009 at 15:07


http://dx.doi.org/10.1021/ja01343a024
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[*] posted on 31-5-2009 at 16:18


Alright, this is gonna sound pretty stupid coming from me, but I've been having issues recrystallizing sodium acetate trihydrate. It was made from boiled-down (3.8L) vinegar neutralized with baking soda, and by the time it was down to 600mL or so, it was a dark reddish-brown from condensed organic crap in the mix. I had a fine white precipitate seperate from the boiling solution which did not melt under reasonable heating and was somewhat picky about dissolving in more water. Upon further concentration and cooling, the dark reddish-brown supernatant formed masses of fragile clear (but stained with impurities) crystals which are without a doubt the trihydrate. I vacuum filtered the crystals and redissolved both forms in a little distilled water under heating, followed by filtering through cotton wool to remove any crud that drifted into the mix. The resultant solution is pale straw yellow colored. After sitting overnight, I got a compact white crystalline mass forming on the bottom. Agitating it brought a flocculent white precipitate of crystals. There is no sign of the glassy, brittle trihydrate crystals in the new solution. No more material will crystallize out.

Now for my question. Am I having anhydrous sodium acetate (or a lower hydrate of some kind) crystallize out of supercooled trihydrate which refuses to crystallize despite my best efforts? Usually I do very well with crystallizations and this is very frustrating. The reddish filthy swill that I harvested 2 crops from continues to lay down small amounts of trihydrate crystals as it evaporates, which makes it even more irritating.




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[*] posted on 31-5-2009 at 17:41


I find a wash of the ground sodium acetate with acetone takes great care of the organics left and after a filter im left with a pure white filter cake( very slightly off white until it drys). Have you tryed to seed the supercooled solution? I highly doubt you have anhydrous sodium acetate comming out of the solution.
Im sorry I can't be more help but my main problem when working with this is stoping the supersaturated solutions from crystalizing when Im trying to work with it and cloging filters and such.





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[*] posted on 6-6-2009 at 08:01


This ain't a chem question, but I don't currently have accounts any more appropriate forums...Feel free to delete if it's objectionable...

Can picric acid be detonated by way of a rifle round? Specifically, half a film canister full, pressed, and hit by a NATO (5.54x39 iirc) bullet? I have some amount that's been sitting around for quite some time and needs to be disposed of in a suitable fashion.




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[*] posted on 6-6-2009 at 09:18


It should do, it's shock sensitive - a google search should give you all the information you need. However I worry that by shooting it you might detonate a bit and send the rest flying all over the place, especially if you did a bad shot. You could dilute down to a very very weak solution and flush it away.

[Edited on 6-6-2009 by Mossydie]
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[*] posted on 6-6-2009 at 09:58


Why don't you just use a blasting cap?

[Edited on 6-6-2009 by Lambda-Eyde]
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[*] posted on 6-6-2009 at 10:12


Don't have any caps and I'm NOT putting it in my septic system... I'm going shooting with a buddy of mine today and figured it's as good a time as any to get rid of it - No loss on an incomplete detonation, I just don't want it on my shelf anymore.



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[*] posted on 6-6-2009 at 11:16


If its purity is high, why not hold on to it---you may kick yourself later if you get rid of it. . .
If you're unsure of the purity, recrystallise!
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[*] posted on 6-6-2009 at 13:33


It sounds like you've found a non-chemical solution. Some hazardous materials handbooks recommend reduction to triaminophenol with tin and HCl, and then oxidation of the triaminophenol with acidified permanganate. These references recommend running the reaction on 8 grams or less at a time. Googling brought up some of these references if anybody else is interested.
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[*] posted on 6-6-2009 at 14:03


I found a file saying picric dets 5/10 times with a .30 cal bullet.
Perhaps go something more powerful than your .221 like 7.62x39, .308 or 30-06 depending on what is available.

http://publications.drdo.gov.in/gsdl/collect/defences/index/...

If not, Sn/HCl reduction is the common way.

[Edited on 6-6-09 by The_Davster]




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[*] posted on 7-6-2009 at 17:08


Do amino acids form ammonium salts in the presense of ammonia, e.g. ammonium glycinate?
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[*] posted on 7-6-2009 at 18:15


If I have an Ahlinn flask that is slightly chipped on the narrow end, will it still work? Or should I sell it/throw it away :(?
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[*] posted on 7-6-2009 at 19:16


Can someone please write the reaction between a nitrate salt and aluminium powder which reduces the nitrate ion to the ammonium ion? I'm having an amazing mental blank.

Formula409.
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[*] posted on 7-6-2009 at 19:55


Quote: Originally posted by Formula409  
Can someone please write the reaction between a nitrate salt and aluminium powder which reduces the nitrate ion to the ammonium ion? I'm having an amazing mental blank.

Formula409.



I'm not sure exactly, my guess would be:

Al + KNO3 + H2O --> Al2O3 + KOH + NH3 (or NH4OH, in water)

I can't see how it would proceed without the presence of water.

Hope this helps.




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[*] posted on 7-6-2009 at 20:29


Quote: Originally posted by Formula409  
Can someone please write the reaction between a nitrate salt and aluminium powder which reduces the nitrate ion to the ammonium ion? I'm having an amazing mental blank.

Formula409.


Is this in solution, or do you mean upon acidification of the remains of a pyrotechnic mix?

If the latter,

3NaNO3 + 8Al -> 3NaAlO2 + Al2O3 + 3AlN

The aluminum nitride should hydrolyze in water, releasing ammonia, or in acid, being immediately trapped as ammonium.

Quote: Originally posted by Rich_Insane  
If I have an Ahlinn flask that is slightly chipped on the narrow end, will it still work? Or should I sell it/throw it away :(?


What in the hell, may I ask, is an Ahlinn flask?

An allihn condenser? Perhaps a Kjeldahl flask? Slightly chipped can mean a lot of things depending on who you ask. Take a picture of the damage.

[Edited on 6-8-09 by UnintentionalChaos]




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