ChemistryForever
Hazard to Self
Posts: 64
Registered: 6-12-2018
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Resistant labels
What types of labels/ normal labels protection would you recommend as to ensure the labels of the corrosive reagents don't degrade, so they remain as
shiny as in the beginning ?
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VSEPR_VOID
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Use something with a waxy cover, not paper. Paper tends to get gross after a few months to years depending on storage conditions. Also store your
reagents and conditions in a room with AC. Nothing is worse then finding out your hotplate's stired rusted in place.
Within cells interlinked
Within cells interlinked
Within cells interlinked
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Abromination
Hazard to Others
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Registered: 10-7-2018
Location: Alaska
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I usually use paper and cover it on both sides with packing tape to 'laminate' it but anything that will attack the paper should be a waxy, plastic
label like the kinds you often see on the sides of cleaning chemicals.
List of materials made by ScienceMadness.org users:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1nmJ8uq-h4IkXPxD5svnT...
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Elements Collected: H, Li, B, C, N, O, Mg, Al, Si, P, S, Fe, Ni, Cu, Zn, Ag, I, Au, Pb, Bi, Am
Last Acquired: B
Next: Na
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Sulaiman
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So far I have found a few problems with labels;
. label falls off
. label gets erroded
. label gets stained
. ink fades or blurs
I use self-adhesive paper labels hand written in charcoal pencil which has been adequate for most bottles.
If the bottle contents are hazardous (i.e. the label must not fail)
then I tape over the label, around the bottle and back over the label with 3M transparent tape.
Recently I tried Sellotape (not cellulose) and it is a little more invisible (prettier) and seems as durable
... I can't give a fair comparison yet.
There are NO labeling requirements for hobby chemistry here in UK,
but for my own safety and convenience I label almost everything,
this is the BIG benefit of having labels and a pencil in the lab,
... no more searching through my log book to try and identify ongoing experiments
(strange stuff in miscellaneous containers)
put the date on the label to reference your log book
I have only used this system for four years so I can't vouch for long term storage,
but I tend to check all of my chemicals before summer and before winter,
so if a label has dropped off (once) it is easy to replace.
I work on the principle that any label is better than none 
EDIT : A genuine question ...
Why waste what could be hours of practical labwork to make fancy labels ?
or reading (SM etc.)
... and labeling cost vs. a new chemical or piece of equipment.
P.S self-adhesive labels are good on glass, not so good on plastic bottles,
I have had labels slip down but not come off,
I think that condensation was involved as when dry again the label is secure, in its new position.
I buy the cheapest labels that I can find,
40 labels per A4 sheet is my current choice,
scissors (or usually for me, a blade) allow labeling of test tubes, phials etc.
(and neat cutting of the tape)
(Plus, after reminded by comments below)
I put a big ugly red line on labels for instantly hazardous contents.
[Edited on 20-1-2019 by Sulaiman]
CAUTION : Hobby Chemist, not Professional or even Amateur
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DavidJR
National Hazard
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Registered: 1-1-2018
Location: Scotland
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I use a Dymo label machine (LabelManager 280) with (knockoff) vinyl label tapes. It seems to work pretty well.
Note that the lower cost machines use direct-thermal tapes (like receipt printer paper) - which you really don't want. Make sure to get one of the
ones that uses thermal transfer tapes. These are much more chemical resistant, heat resistant, etc.
In Dymo-land they call their thermal transfer label format D1.
Occasionally I will wrap transparent tape around the bottle over the label if it's something that I really don't want to risk the label falling off
of.
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XeonTheMGPony
International Hazard
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Registered: 5-1-2016
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I know a few in law enforcement, and they all said labeling things will greatly reduce head aches if they where to ever become involved for any
reason, that and basic safety labeling is mandatory, Aspirin and cyanide look the same as a raw powder, both cure head aches! One not in such a useful
way!
Laser printer ink will not fade or run when exposed to most chemicals, and it will print on a wide array of materials, down side is you need a laser
printer! Pencil next best thing.
For more permanent containers I etch the glass with a dremmel then contrast it with permanent marker and re-apply as needed, but even with out the
contrast the material still can be read
I have used white out tape and permanent marker felt pens for temp labels, they look very sharp.
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Herr Haber
International Hazard
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Registered: 29-1-2016
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It seems we all share the same problems :-/
I am very worried about labels falling off aswell. I once found massively overpriced plastic / aluminium labels for writing on.
I wish I could find which supplier was carrying this because that's what I'd like to use on all my containers. I think about this every time I'm
looking for a chemical which is often.
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Abromination
Hazard to Others
Posts: 432
Registered: 10-7-2018
Location: Alaska
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Mood: 1,4 tar
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Industial sharpies, often found at hardware stores or craft stores are built to be fairly chemicaly inert and should stick to most containers. A bit
pricy but worth a try.
List of materials made by ScienceMadness.org users:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1nmJ8uq-h4IkXPxD5svnT...
--------------------------------
Elements Collected: H, Li, B, C, N, O, Mg, Al, Si, P, S, Fe, Ni, Cu, Zn, Ag, I, Au, Pb, Bi, Am
Last Acquired: B
Next: Na
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