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confused
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just throwing out an idea, maybe soak up the fluid with an absorbant material? or stick it in a vacuum desicator and see what happens?
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UnintentionalChaos
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Depending if the ferrofluid or aqueous, you could try washing it with kerosene/hexanes/etc or hot water to remove the fluid component. I suspect you
will still have magnetite particles stuck to it. Perhaps warm oxalic acid solution will reduce and dissolve the extremely high surface area material.
while probably not (or only minimally) doing any damage to the (probably) nickel plating on the outside.
Department of Redundancy Department - Now with paperwork!
'In organic synthesis, we call decomposition products "crap", however this is not a IUPAC approved nomenclature.' -Nicodem
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watson.fawkes
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If it cools down through its Curie point in the
presence of a reasonably strong magnetic field, the (microscopic) magnetic domains will lock in alignment and you'll get a functional (macroscopic)
magnet back.
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confused
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wouldn't that require a very strong electromagnetic field, aslo, would that get the magnet back to its original strength?
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watson.fawkes
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Quote: Originally posted by confused  | | wouldn't that require a very strong electromagnetic field, aslo, would that get the magnet back to its original strength? |
The minimum energy configuration for a magnet in an external magnetic field is to be aligned with it. Opposing alignment is thermal
motion. If the external magnetic field is to weak, it has little effect over thermal motion. Once the external magnetic field is strong enough to push
most of the magnetic domains into alignment, further field strength has ever diminishing returns.
As for "original" strength, you know that these materials are first manufactured as chemicals, then formed, and then finally magnetized, right? How do
you suppose they become magnetic otherwise?
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quantumchromodynamics
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heating neo magents
Thanks for suggestions. Good thoughts...
Heating a neodymium magnet is a bit different from heating a regular iron magnet. A neodymium magnet has a powder core inside with only a thin
metallic coating on the outside. They are easily ruined even by mild heating.
If one "scientifically" tosses two neodymium magnets into the air (preferably with the lights out) they collide and smash emitting brilliant sparks.
This experiment is interesting because each of the fragments remains magnetic and so the system stays clumped together even after many energetic
collisions. If one recursively performs this experiment using fragments as input, eventually one is left with an entertaining glob of pulverized
magnetic dust. Pressing the dust into a shape and gently heating on a hotplate yields ... non-magnetic detritus.
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watson.fawkes
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That very much depends on how they're manufactured. Are you referring to a sintered or bonded magnet? Cheap
magnets manufactured with barely acceptable practices would act this way, but it's not a property of Nd magents as such.
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quantumchromodynamics
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cheap neody
Mine are N50 from K&J Magnetics on this spec sheet
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/specs.asp
To my knowledge and experience neodymium magnets all have the property where they loose their magnetization if they are even mildly heated. What
really happens is the magnets become useless if heated over about 80C, not even near Curie temperatures. The "hi temperature" magnets don't work much
better.
From the K&J site FAQ:
21. Do I have to worry about temperature with neodymium magnets?
Yes. Neodymium Iron Boron magnets are sensitive to heat. If a magnet heated above its maximum operating temperature (176°F (80°C) for standard N
grades) the magnet will permanently lose a fraction of its magnetic strength. If they are heated above their Curie temperature (590°F (310°C) for
standard N grades), they will lose all of their magnetic properties. Different grades of neodymium different maximum operating and Curie
temperatures. See our Neodymium Magnet Specifications Page for more details. We do stock a range of high temperature magnets, which you can see
here.
Does anyone know of better neodymium magnets that can survive a bit of heat?
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DJF90
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Samarium-cobalt (SmCo) magnets are designed for high temperature operation. They're supposed to be not quite as strong as "neodymium" magnets but
retain their magnetism even at elevated temperatures.
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blargish
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Dropped my 500 mL 24/40 ground glass RBF today  . It was the only one that I had... I'm not in the
greatest of moods
[Edited on 1-12-2013 by blargish]
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subsecret
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I dropped a 500 mL RBF on the concrete floor of my lab a while ago from about waist height. It bounced a few times, but luckily it was recovered
without a chip. It shows no abnormal nucleation points during boiling (no lines of bubbles indicating invisible cracks). Not something I would expect
from Bomex. 
Fear is what you get when caution wasn't enough.
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Pyro
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lucky! I had something similar with a hollow 29/32 stopper.
It was greased and on the top of my Cl2 generator, the pressure built up and it shot out of the funnel and bounced waist height off the brick floor.
It was intact but the lab smelt a little poolish after that 
all above information is intellectual property of Pyro.  |
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NexusDNA
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Cracked condenser
I made the stupid mistake of discontinuing the cooling while there was still boiling in the distilling flask. Consequence: a crack in the first turn
of my beloved 600mm graham condenser.
The worst part? It was distilling water. 
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Pyro
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Ouch, take it to i know a good one... Werner Vitt in Bruges
all above information is intellectual property of Pyro. |
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Gooferking Science
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Here is a series of stories. One day I was making nitric acid from potassium nitrate and sulfuric acid distillation. My mom came out to my lab to see
what I was doing, and she accidentally undid my clamp, which made the boiling flask smash in my fume hood, distributing nitric acid on the table.
The next week I had ordered a new flask (A two neck) I distilled some ethanol in it, and the yeast burnt because I forgot it was distilling. The flask
was ruined with carbon stains.
I ordered another two neck RB, and I accidentally dropped it when I had 500 ml of bleach in it, making a huge mess in my lab. I have not had an
accident with an RB since, because I am much more careful.
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Pyro
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Gooferking, to get rid of that C mess put a bit of chromic acid in the flask (how much depends on how much mess there is) then gently heat the flask
on a yellow sooty bunsen flame until the acid starts to fume. the stain should be gone after that. I did this just today with some black organic gunk
that nothing would remove.
Today I removed some organic crap from my 1l sep. funnel with MeOH, then I drained and stoppered it and put it in the washing up sink, forgetting that
it was full of hot water. after a few mins the stopper suddenly shot out and smashed into the wall, nearly hittIng my face!
all above information is intellectual property of Pyro. |
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HeYBrO
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I was cleaning up after an experiment and i dropped my thermometer into my 100 ml measuring cylinder from about 3 inches and it smashed the bulb (
lucky it wasn't mercury ). One time after purifying sodium carbonate in a 400 ml beaker i dried it on my hotplate which caked really badly onto the
beaker. I got spatula to chip it away and i poked the spatula right through the beaker... luckily all my mishaps were relatively cheap.
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Lambda-Eyde
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| Quote: Originally posted by NexusDNA | I made the stupid mistake of discontinuing the cooling while there was still boiling in the distilling flask. Consequence: a crack in the first turn
of my beloved 600mm graham condenser.
The worst part? It was distilling water. |
This doesn't make any sense at all. A condenser shouldn't crack from boiling water without cooling, the temperature difference is only 70-80 degrees,
which is nothing. It should handle at least 200 degrees without cooling. When using cooling water the distillate shouldn't be coming over at a
temperature exceeding 150 C or so, the thermal shock might crack it. But boiling water, without cooling? Be very glad you weren't distilling
nitric acid and that the condenser broke without turning into a disaster. Claim your money back, never buy from them again, and buy a liebig from a
reputed manufacturer.
This just in: 95,5 % of the world population lives outside the USA
You should really listen to ABBAPlease drop by our IRC channel: #sciencemadness @ irc.efnet.org
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HeYBrO
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there are better ways of cleaning glass than chromic acid. that stuff is horrible for you and the environment! plus there are better ways of cleaning
carbon gunk see Cleaning of various "materials"
[Edited on 30-12-2013 by HeYBrO]
[Edited on 30-12-2013 by HeYBrO]
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blargish
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| Quote: Originally posted by Gooferking Science |
The next week I had ordered a new flask (A two neck) I distilled some ethanol in it, and the yeast burnt because I forgot it was distilling. The flask
was ruined with carbon stains.
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I came across a really effective way on Youtube of getting rid of organic residues and carbon stains. Place the flask/beaker/whatever inside of a
larger beaker to collect foam (the cleaning reaction foams over very violently). Add concentrated (~35%) hydrogen peroxide to the flask and follow it
up with the addition of Iron (II) chloride solution. After the reaction, most of the residue, if not all, should be gone. Repeat if necessary. This
has worked well for me in the past.
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DJF90
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@Blargish - This is Fenton's reagent and relies on the formation of Fe4+ and OH radicals, both actively oxidising species. Even dilute peroxide should
work well.
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Mailinmypocket
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A few minutes ago I smashed a bottle containing a little under 2.5 litres of pentane on the floor... Thanks to my ID card which is on a lanyard around
my neck getting snagged on the handle of the bottle on a shelf when I was unpacking an order Now I'm going to complain about how we need clips instead
of the standard issue lanyards. Thank god it wasn't something more dangerous than being very flammable.
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DJF90
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My access card is on a lanyard also but I just tuck it in my shirt pocket.
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*FWOOSH*
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I just broke ANOTHER thermometer. That's three mercury thermometers and two spirit thermometers (one of which had a ground joint...) in the past three
months. Also ran out of vacuum distillation adapters after I broke the barb off my last one.
[Edited on 12-1-2014 by *FWOOSH*]
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zenosx
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Smashed one of my last two Hg thermometers from stupidity with it just measuring a water bath. Arrgg. Used sulfur to clean up the bit of Hg I didn't
recover...
A question that sometimes drives me hazy: am I or are the others crazy?
Albert Einstein
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