m1tanker78
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From Scrap Wood To Test Tube Holder
I've used various wood / foam blocks with holes drilled to hold test tubes in the past. The problem is that most of the time test tube experiments are
tiny scale and it's impossible to observe without removing the test tube from the block. I set out to turn a fence post (4" x 4") off-cut into a test
tube holder where I can see the bottom of the test tubes without removing.
Scrap wood block from fence post:
Marked hole locations:
Began drilling holes on the drill press:
All holes drilled; ready to be cut down on table saw:
Completed test tube rack featuring calcium oxide powder, concentrated copper sulfate solution, and a wet copper powder cake:
I messed up on the corner holes. I was originally going to make a front and back set of holes only. Nevertheless, you can see the test tube contents
are visible all the way to the bottom. The test tubes fit fairly snug -- no more leaning them on something where there's a good chance of tipping
over.
Start to finish took about :30 minutes to complete. The faces can be cut with a box saw but will produce a lot of tearout.
[Edited on 12-19-2015 by m1tanker78]
Chemical CURIOSITY KILLED THE CATalyst.
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violet sin
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Nice work. A half inch wide strip of copper sheet long enough to wrap around the cube and lap a bit, will make the corners functional and look cool.
Also soft enough to be easily drilled and finish nailed in place. Or worked in what ever fashion you see fit to make it stay. Just a suggestion.
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j_sum1
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I was thinking of updating mine. I might pinch some of your idea.
J.
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aga
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Good original thinking there m1tanker78.
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kecskesajt
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Nice 
Here, testtube holders can be 10$ or more based on material :O
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careysub
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You should varnish (polyurethane varnish is best for this, but anything is better than nothing) and not leave it bare wood.
Of course the cheapness of the project is compromised if you have to buy a can of varnish just for this.
I have a commercially made wood test tube stand that was unfinished, and it was getting water damaged and it absorbed any gunk spilled on it, making
true clean-up questionable. After varnishing, no further damage, and wipe-up is easy.
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Sulaiman
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I have used brush-on polyurethane varnish for my dual-burette/anything-that-fits stand
and so far it seems surprisingly chemical and stain resistant.
ideally several thin coats, or if lazy like me then one thin coat and one thick coat.
A small pot goes a long way.
Or paint it with whatever you can find then re-paint as required
or soak in boiling wax (not tried, sounds extremely messy)
or furniture or automotive wax or polish
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careysub
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The Forest Service has found that wax treatment of wood is the best water-proofing and preservative treatment available. They don't dip the wood in
melted wax but use wax dissolved in mineral spirits.
I have used wax-dipping to protect chain mail and is not really that messy (people use it in heating baths after all). The stuff hardens again when
cool, and can be easily removed from the dipping bowl and stored for reuse in a plastic bag.
If you did dip the wood though you would probably to give it a "heat treatment" in the oven on old newspaper (or something absorbent) at the lowest
setting for a while to allow the wax to soak into the wood, and any excess wax to runoff to eliminate any wax on the surface.
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arkoma
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This is a GREAT idea. I use wood for most everything. Condenser holder, sep funnel bracket yadda yaddda
*edit* NICE TABLE SAW, and luv them Irwin blades
[Edited on 12-20-2015 by arkoma]
"We believe the knowledge and cultural heritage of mankind should be accessible to all people around the world, regardless of their wealth, social
status, nationality, citizenship, etc" z-lib
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m1tanker78
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Good suggestions. I have some polyurethane but didn't apply because I needed to use the rack that evening to mildly heat some test tubes. Luckily
nothing spilled or spattered so I'll take the hints and brush on a couple of light coats of PU. There's a lot of naked end grain on this piece.
| Quote: | | The Forest Service has found that wax treatment of wood is the best water-proofing and preservative treatment available. They don't dip the wood in
melted wax but use wax dissolved in mineral spirits. |
That's interesting, I'll have to try that sometime.
With the right solvent, it should be safe to use on cutting boards along with good old mineral oil.
Arkoma, I was hesitant to dish out the money for the Irwin blade but am glad I did. They make very clean cuts and last a long time (had this blade ~3
years or so). If you can, post a pic of your sep funnel bracket. I'd love to see it.
Chemical CURIOSITY KILLED THE CATalyst.
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