RogueRose
International Hazard
Posts: 1585
Registered: 16-6-2014
Member Is Offline
|
|
Combining multiple saw blades to make 1/2 - 3/4" width cutting width - possible?
This is a theoretical custmom setup where a specific width needs to be cut in boards at a specific depth. The table saw can accomidate the width of
many blades together and has height adjustment.
I know a router can be used for something similar, but that isn't an option for this application.
If I stacked 4-8 blades together to get correct width and put them on the drive axel, would that be a problem? I think drilling a few holes (3-6)
through the stack and bolting them together so all the teeth are aligned would be workable.
So once the blades are stacked and bolted together, is there any reason why this setup wouldn't work assuming the motor had enough power to cut the
material?
Given that all the blades are identical and there isn't R/L stagger between blades allowing them to lie flat, should all the teeth be aligned
together?
If there is R/L stagger (say blade is 4mm and each tooth is off-set 1mm R or L, alternating, would staggering the teeth every other blade work as well
(so each blade is turned 1/2 distance to next blade so they don't push against each other if stacked directly against each other).
|
|
|
CharlieA
National Hazard
Posts: 645
Registered: 11-8-2015
Location: Missouri, USA
Member Is Offline
Mood: No Mood
|
|
dado set
What you need is an 8" dado set with the same size mounting hole as the arbor on your saw. For example: http://www.lowes.com/pd_75071-281-1811865_0__?productId=3712...
If this is a one-shot deal you may be able to find a cheaper "wobble type" dado, but this is not recommended for frequent use. If the groove is one
you need to cut a lot of, always the same size, you could try using router bit, if the size you need is available and you have a router.
Buying a bunch of saw blades, as you mentioned, is probably not cheaper (bolting them together wouldn't be necessary). With a dado set, you can set
the width you desire within 0.001".
Happy woodworking, from a frustrated woodworker!
Charlie
|
|
|
Dr.Bob
International Hazard
Posts: 2658
Registered: 26-1-2011
Location: USA - NC
Member Is Offline
Mood: No Mood
|
|
This is how a dado blade works, most have two normal circular blades and then some simpler blades between them, often with only a few teeth each.
You don't need to bolt them together, if they are simply held in together tightly with the normal nut to hold the blade.
Normally, you stagger the blades, which allows the blades to sit tightly together.
|
|
|
BromicAcid
International Hazard
Posts: 3227
Registered: 13-7-2003
Location: Wisconsin
Member Is Offline
Mood: Rock n' Roll
|
|
You could always use a single blade and just adjust the fence fractionally between cuts to do multiple passes. I guess technically you could put
multiple blades on your drive axle but I would be very reluctant to try to bolt them together due to the potential for the bolts to off-balance the
blades which is always a scary occurrence. I think if you tightened them down enough the compressive force would be enough to get the blades to spin
together and you wouldn't need to bolt them but it's not an ideal solution. As mentioned above a dado would be preferable. Then again you could use
the blade to cut each side of your grove then go in with a chisel.
|
|
|
Fulmen
International Hazard
Posts: 1693
Registered: 24-9-2005
Member Is Offline
Mood: Bored
|
|
Should work. I agree that bolting them would be a bad idea, not only can they be a PITA to machine but they would get imbalanced for sure. Teeth
alignment shouldn't be an issue, if anything a staggered setup should give a smoother cutting action.
We're not banging rocks together here. We know how to put a man back together.
|
|
|
XeonTheMGPony
International Hazard
Posts: 1636
Registered: 5-1-2016
Member Is Offline
Mood: No Mood
|
|
As others said it works, but needs a slower feed rate and tends to ruff cut, use max cuation and safety, best safest option is a router.
|
|
|
diddi
National Hazard
Posts: 723
Registered: 23-9-2014
Location: Victoria, Australia
Member Is Offline
Mood: Fluorescent
|
|
get a router an attach it to your saw bench so you have a fence to guide everything properly
Beginning construction of periodic table display
|
|
|
Bert
Super Administrator
Posts: 2821
Registered: 12-3-2004
Member Is Offline
Mood: " I think we are all going to die. I think that love is an illusion. We are flawed, my darling".
|
|
Describe the cross section of the groove you want to cut, and the finish requirement-
Stacked or wobble Dado would be my choice from the rather limited description of what you are trying to do.
Rapopart’s Rules for critical commentary:
1. Attempt to re-express your target’s position so clearly, vividly and fairly that your target says: “Thanks, I wish I’d thought of putting it
that way.”
2. List any points of agreement (especially if they are not matters of general or widespread agreement).
3. Mention anything you have learned from your target.
4. Only then are you permitted to say so much as a word of rebuttal or criticism.
Anatol Rapoport was a Russian-born American mathematical psychologist (1911-2007).
|
|
|
Eosin Y again
Banned troll
Posts: 13
Registered: 14-5-2016
Member Is Offline
Mood: No Mood
|
|
The dado blade would work better than a number bolted together.
Bert, an explanation please? U2U me.
|
|
|
BromicAcid
International Hazard
Posts: 3227
Registered: 13-7-2003
Location: Wisconsin
Member Is Offline
Mood: Rock n' Roll
|
|
I would say this depends, the original poster did not mention the type of wood or the depth of the cut. A hard wood like maple and a deep cut
(>1/8") at 3/4" width is going to tax a router to do in one pass which of course means multiple passes. Then it comes down to the tolerance that
the OP wants, when I have a long sheet of wood and need multiple passes it turns into a pain in the butt to try to either shim the wood up while
traveling or lifting it by hand as it's fed along the fence which can cause issues. My own router table only will work on things 18" or less from the
edge, if RogueRose is trying to put these cuts somewhere in the middle section of a 4x8 sheet of plywood* then they would be out of luck in my setup
using a router.
What I am saying is that it is an option, as is the dado but either one has positives and negatives. Personally for me, I prefer the table saw for a
deep precision groove.
* = Usually try to put things into international units but on this post I was putting things in inches because I am used to that for woodworking,
weird how the brain compatmentalizes. Anyway, the plywood is 4 x 8 feet in size, is that the international standard? Are sheets of plywood in Europe
1.22 x 2.44 meters?
|
|
|
ELRIC
Hazard to Others
Posts: 244
Registered: 23-2-2015
Location: Kentucky
Member Is Offline
Mood: No Mood
|
|
According to Wikipedia, yes, that is a standard size in most of Europe, along with
10 ft. X 5 ft. I found that to be kinda odd myself. Has anyone here ever seen any
plywood that size? I sure haven't, and can say with a high % of certainty that I have
handled more plywood than anyone on the forum 
And, I second the dado blade
[Edited on 15-5-2016 by ELRIC]
[Edited on 15-5-2016 by ELRIC]
|
|
|
CharlieA
National Hazard
Posts: 645
Registered: 11-8-2015
Location: Missouri, USA
Member Is Offline
Mood: No Mood
|
|
If you have just 1 or 2 dados to cut, I'd go with Bromic's suggestion to use the single saw blade and just readjust the fence. Of course, you can
always go the old fashioned way with chisels!
|
|
|
![[*]](images/xpblue/default_icon.gif){kind=icon}
