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Author: Subject: Advice on best plasticizer/binder-method of mixing, % composition, and best compounds
Tkuze
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[*] posted on 9-5-2019 at 20:47
Advice on best plasticizer/binder-method of mixing, % composition, and best compounds


Hello
Id like some feedback and opinions based on your experimentation on the best procedures and materials used to make the best plastiscized EM. Assuming the main constituent is a Nitrated Polyol, what are good mixtures that use common and readily available ingredients ( eg: dialkyl pthalates and others are expensive and hard to get). SWIMs testing has been only with PB and silicone vacuum oil with ok results. The problem is weighing out compounds based on prior successful results isnt reliable to achieve the same consistency, as in there is always a need to add more of one or all compounds to change consistency as it is kneaded. Also, mixing using a spoon and pyrex bowl seems labor intensive and ineficient. Attempted melt casting to mix all as liquids resulted in the cooled product being a solid. This solid still works extremely well, but deteats the point of having a flexible material. Any advice, personal research, or experimentals and theory would be greatly appreciated.
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Laboratory of Liptakov
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[*] posted on 9-5-2019 at 22:31
SCAPA 2501


They all praise the use of poly isobutylene (PIB) from SCAPA 2501 self-vulcanizing tape. The basic ratios are 5% PIB + 5% synthetic 5W40 engine oil. Other powder components are of course 90%.
Harder plast consistency is 6,5 % PIB + 4,5% Oil. Soft plast is 4% PIB + 6% Oil.
Basic filling is 10% of this mixture. Variability is 8 - 14%. For very good plastic properties for powdered PETN (or ETN) is it 6% PIB + 6 % oil.




Development of primarily - secondary substances CHP (2015) Lithex (2022) Brightelite (2023) Nitrocelite and KC primer (2024)
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Tkuze
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[*] posted on 9-5-2019 at 22:56


Thanks a lot. PB is from the bird repellent. 5w20 or 5w30 was used due to lack of 5w40. Does this make a drastic differenence? And those ratios are pretty much the standard but for some reason result in an overly sticky/sweaty consistency. 13% min inert was the only way to get a consistent puddy. There must me a major flaw in SWIMs experience. Also tests fail when pressed around BC is seems DDT is too short so only half Ds, rest is flung off in all directions. When using a presciption bottle and plasing BC in center vertically im the 10-20g prod and then pressing down with a dowell rod and filling empty space with cotton seem to work with 100% efficiency.. even when inerts are 14-17%. 20% seems about 3/4 effectiveness when confined ij same manor. Of course melt casts work 100% reliably and are excellent for longterm storage. The HE is very pure and high density, large needlelike crystals. 1st dissolved im EtOH and then sat Na2CO3 is added dropwise and left to precipitate. Vac filtered and dried. This is them recrystallized again with EtOH and kept at low heat so 2 layers dont form and degrade to lower NO2 polyols.. and left to cool slowly and precip without adding H2O. Vac filyeted and dried in RBF with vac outlet until dry. So thiz isnt the problem forsure
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[*] posted on 9-5-2019 at 23:40


Bird repellent PiB is just waste of money, just follow LL advice and you will be fine.
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[*] posted on 10-5-2019 at 00:08


Underground, thanks for the advice. I was wanted to clarify what you said, "bird repellent PiB". Do yoy mean PB? Can you elaborate on the contentz of the repellant? I just want to make sure i understand correctly. Thanks
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[*] posted on 10-5-2019 at 00:47


Almost all people have a special trait. I'll give him advice on how to do it best. But the first thing a person thinks is how to do it differently. And how to do it sure better! The result is an almost certain failure of attempt. Is it a like the fight with windmills....:cool:...LL



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[*] posted on 10-5-2019 at 01:03


I wasnt trying to discredit you or question your advice, nor did I mean to try to come up with a different idea/better. I just wanted to include some results and observations from the failures experienced in my method to understand the chemistry and why it sucked. I definately think you have the best advice and I will follow it. Sorry for the confusion and my lack of knowledge. I appreciate your help LL.
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[*] posted on 10-5-2019 at 01:30


Of course, I agree. Is it entire only hobby and entertainment.....Not No need to apologize. You use 5W40 or 10W40. But never any glue on Rat or Bird or Ant or on crocodille..!...:cool:..LL



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[*] posted on 10-5-2019 at 03:12


Quote: Originally posted by Laboratory of Liptakov  
But never any glue on Rat or Bird or Ant or on crocodille..!...:cool:..LL


LL Lmao
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[*] posted on 10-5-2019 at 10:17


You can use anything. But never, never you use the active glue on the crocodile..!...Is it very hard, heavy and powerful....!...Both your hands will be instantly immobilized.....:cool:.....:D
(next question will follow) .....Where is possible buy the glue on crocodile?




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