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Author: Subject: H2SO4
dazvo
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[*] posted on 12-3-2003 at 08:43
H2SO4


FeS + HCl = H2S + Cl
H2S + H2O = H2SO4
??????????/
this is rait?????????/
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[*] posted on 12-3-2003 at 10:16


Adding hydrogen sulphide to water will merely give you hydrogen sulphide solution (which is weakly acidic).


The equations you give don't even make sense. The two reactions written correctly are:

FeS (s) + 2HCl (aq) --> H2S (g) + FeCl2 (aq)

H2S (g) --> H2S (aq)


Have you any idea how dangerous hydrogen sulphide is? I strongly suggest that you learn some chemistry before attempting any experimentation. If you try to handle hydrogen sulphide with your current level of knowledge you will probably kill or seriously injure yourself.

Chris




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Rhadon
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[*] posted on 12-3-2003 at 10:35


dazvo, I don't know where you come from, but you might try a translation program like Babylon Translator :).
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[*] posted on 13-3-2003 at 03:29


To get sulfuric acid or sulfate, you need to oxydise the sulfur in the molecule to a higher degree of oxydation!
H2S --> H2SO3 --> H2SO4
FeS --> FeSO4
Thus you need an oxydiser!
HNO3, NH4NO3, KNO3, O2 depending on the case!

Why search complicated when you have it handy?
H2SO4 is in car batteries (30 to 50% H2SO4)!




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[*] posted on 13-3-2003 at 11:46


And offcourse if you need a higher concentration of H<sub>2</sub>SO<sub>4</sub> you can allways just boil it. Boil till white fumes are given off. I know, this is basic information, but if you spell "right" like rait, and giving equations that do not make any sence. Then I doubt that you knew this.
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Cappy
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[*] posted on 30-3-2003 at 22:42


How concentrated can you get sulfuric acid by boiling it? What about nitric and other acids?

Wouldn't heating decrease the solubility of the gasses?
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smile.gif posted on 30-3-2003 at 23:11


HNO3 will not boil well but you will reach an azeotrope mix of 68-69% HNO3 with water!
So strating from dilluted HNO3 you will boil first concentrated HNO3(68%) and then water!

H2SO4 will boil water and H2SO4 with increasing % H2SO4 upon time; thus here the conc H2SO4 goes out at the end or remain in the flask!
Beware of hot gaseous H2SO4/H2O fumes!

:cool:




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[*] posted on 31-3-2003 at 16:21


Its likely to see the hno3 decompose before any real percentage is reached. Around mid high 90's can be reached with h2so4.

CTR
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smile.gif posted on 1-4-2003 at 16:46


I have never had any HNO3 decomposition while distillating at ambiant pressure in an oil bath!
I have distillated HNO3 conc from HNO3 69% /H2SO4 96% witout troubles and HNO3 conc from NaNO3/HNO3/H2SO4 without troubles eather!
Ok faint yellow NOx on top of the fluid but nothing dramatic!

I have used a glass rod distillator!

:cool:




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smile.gif posted on 1-4-2003 at 16:50


Of course the resulting conc HNO3 is white when cold and very pale yellow when hot and fumes a lot in the air.


:cool::cool:




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[*] posted on 15-4-2003 at 21:57
hmmm...


Would you be able to boil drain cleaner (the hefty kind with the bag around it covered with warnings) and increase the concentration? or would this be pointless?
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[*] posted on 15-4-2003 at 22:24


Yes, that will increase the concentration. Typical H<sub>2</sub>SO<sub>4</sub>-based drain opener is about 94% H<sub>2</sub>SO<sub>4</sub>; boiling until thick white fumes appear (which are a mix of H<sub>2</sub>O and SO<sub>3</sub>;) yields 98% H<sub>2</sub>SO<sub>4</sub>.



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[*] posted on 16-4-2003 at 18:30


Boiling down battery acid (38% H2SO4) works perfect if a Liebig is attached to the top of the flask (no cooling water required) and the outlet is run in a bucket with water. No fumes at all escape.

Only the conc. H2SO4 got this way looks quite dirty, with particles floating around. Anybody knows a easy way to get ridof these impurities? If filtering what kind of filter is advised if you don´t have those nice Whatmans glassfiberfilters by hand?

Problem solved:
Filtered through some pressed glasswool worked ok. No problems.

[Edited on 18-4-2003 by Organikum]
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[*] posted on 20-4-2003 at 19:11


Could battery acid be boiled in a teflon-coated frying pan? Let me know what you think about using the pan for preparing food afterwards. :P

Also, when boiling H2SO4 and HNO3 and other acids/bases, will water always boil off first before the azeotrope is reached? Obviously a small amount of acid vapors would come off too, but I was wondering if distillation was required, or if simple boiling would work.



[Edited on 4/21/2003 by Cappy]
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[*] posted on 21-4-2003 at 02:09


I may be wrong, but battery acid has a lot of impurity in it (mostly Lead). Hence boiling it in a frying pan might get you a fun case of lead poisoning.

Thinking of purifying sulphuric acid…
Could one boil a ‘sacrificial’ batch of acid until it gives off H<sub>2</sub>O and SO<sub>3</sub>
Then pass the fumes through or over either MgSO<sub>4</sub> or CuSO<sub>4</sub> such that you get mostly SO<sub>3</sub> fumes, and then pass these through sulphuric acid to get Oleum.

This just occurred to me, I think I’ll try it tommorow.




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[*] posted on 21-4-2003 at 18:31


Lol, yeah that would suck. Fortunately, my battery acid is store bought rather than canibalized from a battery.

:cool:
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[*] posted on 21-4-2003 at 21:23


Also, when boiling H2SO4 and HNO3 and other acids/bases, will water always boil off first before the azeotrope is reached? Obviously a small amount of acid vapors would come off too, but I was wondering if distillation was required, or if simple boiling would work.

This depends on which side of the azeotrope you are....

For example, boiling 90% HNO<sub>3</sub> will cause mostly HNO<sub>3</sub> to vaporize till the concentration has reached ~68%.
If you boil 40% HNO<sub>3</sub>, mostly water will vaporize until ~68% is reached.

Once you have reached the azeotrope, boiling won't change anything, because the components will vaporize in the same quantity.

Ofcourse, if you heat it above 70C you'll be left with NO<sub>2</sub>, water and O<sub>2</sub>.

[Edited on 22-4-2003 by vulture]

[Edited on 22-4-2003 by vulture]




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[*] posted on 21-4-2003 at 21:41


Just to know, would it be possible to get anhydrous Sulfuric Acid from common source (like Car Batteries)?



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[*] posted on 22-4-2003 at 00:42


Cappy, you can boil the H2SO4 also in your open hand! For a very short time. :P

The described setup was for preventing the unhealthy fumes to escape which evolve when the highest concentration is reached. White fumes of SO2, SO3 and other shit. You can do it outside of course if you live in the outback. Poor kangaroos so.

The acid used by me was from the car-supply store and contained nevertheless lots of dirt as showed up by concentrating the acid. The acid from old batteries is stored by me as it is R1ngm45t3r´s favorite drink when he comes over for devastating my ambiente a little bit.
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[*] posted on 22-4-2003 at 06:39


The more I look into amateur chemistry, the more I'm convinced that a dedicated lab is needed. I guess a stove top "fume hood" could be damaged by the fumes, and probably wouldn't ventilate well enough even with the kitchen sliding glass door open. I guess I could work outside, but around here it's always either humid or windy. :mad:
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[*] posted on 23-4-2003 at 23:54


Coulden't you also distill your H2SO4?Of will it decompose?
If possable distilled H2SO4 will be high purity without those contamination. But on the downside distilling H2SO4 is extreamly energy intensive. The boiling point of H2SO4 is pretty close to that of lead.So it will take a while to distill.




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[*] posted on 24-4-2003 at 07:42
HDPE


Does anyone happen to know how well HDPE would stand up to boiling H2SO4? I can't work outside so I need some way to overcome the acid fumes and sulfur oxides that are prduced while concentrating H2SO4. My thought is that I could attach an HDPE tube to the top of my flask and then have the tube a foot or two long and at the end of it have it covered with a piece of fiberglass cloth which holds some moist base(most likely NaHCO3) to neutralize the acid fumes as they pass through. I'm not sure how well HDPE coud stand up to the hot acid fumes and even if it could I'm not sure my set up would even work anyway. If you think this won't work and have a better idea please tell me.
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[*] posted on 24-4-2003 at 11:44


I'm sure HDPE is good for unconcentrated H2SO4, but I'm not sure about pure, hot fumes. Teflon is safe for fuming H2SO4 up until 200 degrees Farenheit according to the NIBCO Chemical Resistance Guide for Valves and Fittings. Unfortunately they don't list HDPE, but most plastics aren't any good for very hot, concentrated H2SO4.

[Edited on 4/24/2003 by Cappy]
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[*] posted on 24-4-2003 at 12:30


Those bottles sulfuric acid of drain cleaner you buy they are made out of HDPE.Yes HDPE should resist concentrated H2SO4 at room temperatute. But when I did try to put some hot H2SO4 at 80*C into a HDPE container it got really weak. I beleave if you increase the heating it would fail.



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[*] posted on 24-4-2003 at 15:10


Thanks. I guess I'll just have to wait until the weather gets warm enough so that I can concentrate the acid outside.
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