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Author: Subject: Homemade and Repurposed Lab Gear
draculic acid69
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[*] posted on 13-1-2023 at 04:13


Quote: Originally posted by arkoma  
Running trials (so to speak) now. Generic PLA, 50% infill (gyroid)



[Edited on 11-30-2022 by arkoma]


Horseheads can also be made out of timber. A 1"x1"x2" block of pine with 12mm holes drilled for vertical and horizontal poles with a few 4mm holes for screws to tighten things in place works for lighter things. I wouldn't use it for a 1L full of water but smaller things are fine
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Rainwater
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[*] posted on 13-1-2023 at 05:18


Quote: Originally posted by arkoma  
Running trials (so to speak) now. Generic PLA, 50% infill (gyroid)



[Edited on 11-30-2022 by arkoma]

You may find this post processing analysis useful
https://youtu.be/DyAKtS1b3SQ




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arkoma
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[*] posted on 13-1-2023 at 15:06


So far, the handiest things I've been printing are funnels, ones that fits a 24/40 taper and perforated plates for filtration. In my mobile, so i will edit in some pics later.



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[*] posted on 17-1-2023 at 07:15


in my search for a affordable catalyst i stumbled across this

has anyone here got experience working with thse? cus it seems to me that this would be a relatively cheap catalyst for a ostwald reactor




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[*] posted on 27-3-2023 at 10:38


Today I've made a Bunsen burner. I bought a cheap Chinese made propane-butane burner for camping stove cartridges, and cut the burner in two. The cartridge adapter with valve became part 1, the cylinder valve for my makeshift gas line; the burner head itself, attached to an improvised round stand, became the Bunsen burner.

The two parts are connected by a gas line that is made from a silicone tube. The silicone is chemical resistant and survives heating to 250 C.

I had to craft this because the cartridge with the original burner installed was far too tall for any of my clamps and retort stands.

[Edited on 27-3-2023 by ave369]




Smells like ammonia....
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Gammatron
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[*] posted on 27-3-2023 at 16:14
Fumehood Vacuum System


The file size of my pictures was too big to post more than 1 but I wrote about it on my blog. Very easy to build system capable of vacuum distillation on corrosive substances.

https://gammatronscience.wordpress.com/2023/03/27/vacuum-sys...

20230327_103924.jpg - 3.8MB




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Rainwater
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[*] posted on 27-3-2023 at 16:16


Looks better and cleaner than mine. How loud is it?



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Gammatron
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[*] posted on 27-3-2023 at 16:25


Not loud at all with the little mufflers on the exhaust. I was expecting it to be pretty noisy being on top of my FH but it's quite nice.



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[*] posted on 27-3-2023 at 16:33


PS. CaSO4 is a ;>/"& to clean. This may be a cleaner alternative, does require filtering the gas stream
http://www.sciencemadness.org/talk/viewthread.php?tid=159094...




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[*] posted on 27-3-2023 at 17:52


Nice write up! I did a smaller scale reaction yesterday and luckily the CaSO4 broke up with a little shaking. I may have to use a metal rod to break up the pieces in this run but I work at a plant with an ammonia chiller system and I found a place where I can bleed some off into a bottle of water. Boom! Free NH4OH of the highest concentration I can make. I dont need anhydrous, just a more concentrated solution than what is available at the store.



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Organikum
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[*] posted on 29-3-2023 at 01:00


Quote: Originally posted by earpain  

.......
And then, the Monstrosity
........
Once that is finished, i simply slide a 500ml RBF on that bottom receiver elbow piece, connect my vacuum source to the special straight vacuum adapter which is slowly rendering vacuum angled take-off's obsolete.
Then i proceed with a Vacuum Fractional Distillation
In such a way where it is most ideal to use <100ML flasks as the stillpot, but crucial to use serious BIG BOY glassware to condense and collect.

You still have to change receiver flasks between fractions and for this to disconnect the vacuum? Also it would seem to me that you will have quite some distillate collecting in the vacuum adapter not able to run down into the collecting flask, thats somewhat beating the purpose isn't it? I would have thought for 100 ml boiling flasks the shortway thing on top of the small flask would completely suffice. Looks grandiose though, no doubt on this!




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[*] posted on 29-3-2023 at 07:06


Quote: Originally posted by earpain  
Now that DCM is gone, I've been plagued by the tediousness AND the mechanical yield loss off having aq. layers 10 or more times the volume of my compound. And all the organic non-polar solvents still sold to the public either boil at WAY TOO HOT degrees celsius, or just suck in general because they hide water or they dont really dissolve stuff(naphtha).
OR I have to make them from scratch! diethyl ether, chloroform, this isn't over!
Two words: ethyl acetate.



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[*] posted on 31-3-2023 at 17:17


I repurposed my old 35 mm photo lab film developing tank by placing a piece of steel wool inside it and then putting the lid back on. To that I attached a dust collector/bellows that fits over a drill bit to catch sawdust or whatever when drilling into walls or ceilings. Then just a magnet to hold it down. It's strangely simple but really gets going when blasted with a second torch. It seemed a lot of mass to be slinging back and forth, uncertain if the silicone bellows would hold up.
https://youtu.be/rBeaZNxOQYc
https://youtu.be/WXUVMTi8cZU
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[*] posted on 24-4-2023 at 18:40


Broken frit funnel and an evaporating dish makes a good gas bubbler. Here I am concentrating some HCl.



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[*] posted on 25-4-2023 at 09:04


Sum broken gear in sum lab. Pun intended. Must be a coarse frit though.



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[*] posted on 20-3-2024 at 03:59


Magnet stirrer broke needed a quick replacement.

Motor is from a battery lawn trimmer - complete overkill but due to its mass it needs no big balancing. Magnets are Sm/Co - I had too many Neodyms dying already.
Not shown is the lab-power supply I use now, I will later use a 14V PS and a 5 buck speed controller (PWM). It pulls now in the worst case 1,5 Watt.

Changes I would make now: Magnets a bit more apart like 5 mm.

It is perfect and powerful with RBFs and eggs.


magstir on the quick1.jpg - 212kBmagnetstir new2.jpg - 191kBquickfix magstir1.jpg - 326kB




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[*] posted on 6-5-2024 at 14:16


Anyone of you are using the replacement heating mantle sleeves?
Like the one in Organikum´s post above, the picture to the right.

I have a few of those in different sizes but i want to put it into something to easier keep the shape around the flask when using them.
I been thinking I maybe put the mantle sleeve in a clay flowerpot with some vermiculite inside.
Vermiculite can handle the high temps and are a good insulator for heat.
That might help to keep the shape of the sleeve around flask and allow for it to be placed upon a hotplate stirrer (for the stirring function).
If you use these, do you use as they are (as in the pic above) or have you made some support thingy for them?

And if you haven't seen these before, they are a cheap alternative for a heating mantle (find in auction sites) but you need a variac to drive them or buy a dimmer type driver.
Just be careful not to electrocute yourself, one should at least know a bit about electrical safety when messing with mains voltage and currents.
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